What we used to use back in the motorcycle days is soak in acetone, and try
to work it loose. Most times, though, it needed replaced. What is great is
to take the whole cable out of the housing, but then you have to cut it,
making a clean cut, and then to reinsert it all the way through, you have to
solder the end to make it smooth enough to pass through the housing without
catching. A lot of times, unless it was a specialty rare cable, or
expensive, it was just easier to replace the whole thing.
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The one time I did this, used liquid wrench. Position the bike so that
one end of the cable sticks straight up. Expect to be there for a
while, with the little dripper can. But, the cable did free up.
I've also got a balky cable for my Blazer. For that, I used a 1 cc
syringe, with 25 ga x 5/8 needle. Pull the plunger out, and filled the
syringe with silicone spray. Inject under the boot, at the end of the
cable. Pump the parking brake pedal and release, five times every time
I get in the truck. When I can remember. Seems to be helping.
On Fri, 16 Jul 2010 06:23:41 -0700 (PDT), " firstname.lastname@example.org"
How long a time? I'm still waiting for the 150 yr old clock that I
'cleaned' with WD40 in 1983 & only wind up every couple of years to
stop keeping good time.
From what I can see- no goo & no dust.
Nonsense. There isn't any "sticky stuff" in WD-40, and it is a lubricant. Not
a very good one, I'll grant you, but it is a lubricant. The MSDS
shows that it's somewhere between 17 and 25 percent oil.
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