Trim 15 year-old shingles

[Vic Smith]

Keep you hips between the rails. You're looking at doing no more than a yard before moving your ladder.

Snap a chalk line on it. It's worth buying one if you don't have one.

If you're cutting an inch or less off the roof edge and set you blade just deep enough, you shouldn't hit any hangers.

Rough blade should work better, but you need to start moving in slowly with full rpm. I haven't done this, but I'd try my jigsaw with a rough blade first. Lighter and easier to control. Cheaper blades too. You'd have to use a knife at the hangers. Nobody will notice. If somebody says anything tell them to stay off your roof.

You want just right. Not too hot, not too cold. Just right.

--Vic

[Sonny]

This is not a job anyone does on a regular basis, so most of the suggestions,so for, are a bit common sense and practical experience rationale. There is likely several approaches you will have to try, before you get one that works reasonably well. I don't think any approach will make this particular job easy and/or smooth sailing.

If all you have is an old ladder, that approach, to me, will make any cutting approach more tedious, difficult and likely not too safe, depending on your scenario. A scaffold rents for $10 a week, here. A scaffold will make any cutting approach, no matter which, much more convenient, easy and safe.... and the end result would almost certainly be more satisfying.

Sonny

[Willie The Wimp]

Yeah, a yard sounds about right.

Structure is not very high, but it's on side of a hill, so roof line is level, ground is not. Luvit, Luvit, Luvit!

I got one, but it's a bitch to position it properly, snap it. I'll probably do both. Overhang is not uniform, might vary from 2" to

4" on the side I've been measuring.

Hangers mount in the *top* of gutters. Hitting one with circ. saw at full rpm would be hell-to-pay, I Gay-Ron-Tee.

Check.

I got a little piece in the workshop I can test on.

Check.

Many thanks to all.

Willie