Transmission Problem?

In alt.home.repair, on Sun, 05 Feb 2023 02:18:59 -0600, Jim Joyce snipped-for-privacy@none.invalid wrote:

I considered one that works that way, but at the time, I needed a fancier one.

I bought this one:

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$70 now and the same price when I bought it 4.5 years ago!

It's a pretty good one, does everything they can do afaik.

I needed a good one because I was running out of ideas for finding the source of a lean mixture code. This one gives live data for many/all of the sensors, and displays it on a graph. I'd read that I needed to look at the live data, so I looked at the graphs but didn't know what it all meant. (I knew what each one meant, but not how they work together.)

I had done all the easy repairs to find air leak into the combustion, clean the Mass Air Sensor (something like that), then replace it, check the PCV valve, a couple other things, check the hoses visusally, then I used a propane torch with a hose, which should have made the idle speed up if I put the hose near an intake leak. (Lean mixture was probably not because of a shortage of injected gas but a surplus of air.) And a couple other things. I was going to replace the indicated O2 sensor but I didn't have to do that.

Finally I bought a vaping vaper, that I was going to use for a smoke test. But before I could use that I leaned a little on the 4" hose between the air cleaner and I-forget-what-you-call-it, and the hose came off. I couldn't get it on right, from years of its being on wrong, and had to replace it, and voila, no more code. So I never used the vaper and I tried to give it away, but not to some stupid teenager who wants to vape, to some smoker who wants to stop. So far, no success.

The new hose was 30 dollars or so, which seems like a lot for a piece of rubber, but easy to find at any autoparts store, and pretty easy to put on correctly.

I guess when I moved the propane hose around I hadn't gotten it underneath (or even to the sides of?) the problem hose. I guess. Maybe I spent too much time on smaller hoses and none on that big hose? That will teach me. BTW, the small hoses were still soft, even though they were 13/14 years old. They use better rubber/neoprene these days?? Than

1950?

It took 3 1/2 years to fix it, LOL, but I had gotten good mileage all that time, I don't know why. Maybe a lean mixture doesn't waste gas, because it's lean? ?????????????????????????????????????????????????

It used to stumble a bit when accelerating from a stop, and after the hose was replaced, it didn't do that anymore. Thumbs up.

The Check Engine light was on when I bought the car, but of course that didnt' bother me. Just a challenge. :-) And it might have been why the car was so cheap, $4000 iirc, maybe 3000. 2005 Toyota Solara SLE Convetible. MSRP as loaded was $30,000 new, though I don't know what it actually sold for.

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years later after I bought it, it was still worth what I paid for it. And even now, $5567!
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$3,057 - $4,690:
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Because there are only a few makes/models I'm interested in, and I don't want to pay for a new car, I went over 4 counties and 2 states looking at cars for sale, and by golly, this one was only 2 blocks from my home! The owner did this for a living, buying them at auction in Pennsylvania, a few miles north of here, and reselling. He met me at a parking lot, wouldn't show me his driver's license, and I only knew approximately where he lived based on where the car was parked the second time I saw it. I did copy the VIN and look it up. Autofax/Carfax gave plenty information about first owner's mainteance****. I suppose the vendor had reason to be cautious (like if he lied and sold a rotten car to someone who wanted to retaliate) but I don't ask private sellers questions about the cars they sell, because I don't want to make liars out of them**, and then I'll be angry later. It was his idea to do the transaction at a Tag and Title office, a private business that does much of what the DMV does (because the lines at the DMV are long and used to be much worse. We were almost at in impasse when he wouldn't show me his drivers license, but the a) the guy who worked there said that the computer had registered me as the owner***, b) the seller allowed him to go forward, to register the sale on the computer, before he actually had my money in his hand. That still surprises me. I paid him cash, and he knew it would be cash but hadn't even asked to see it. I guess I look honest.

I was back there 6 months later for some reason and saw the vendor again. I told him I'd driven to Florida and back and he seemed amazed that I would do that. Not because the car couldn't iiuc but because he thought I was a wimp or something. I don't know why. ;-)

***I think the tag and title guy assured me the sale couldn't be reversed, like if it was determined the car was stolen and the vendor didn't really own it. I didn't believe him but I thought the odds were very very low, and if need be, I could probably find the vendor by going door to door where he parked the cars he was selling. And/or by subpoenaing the Craig's Kist records.

**I knew this at the time, that he had lied to me. Without my asking, he volunteered that his son drove the car all summer to college, but he had bought it only 2 or 3 weeks before. That didn't bother me. I expect a little bit of lying, and the car already had no warranty, so his assuring me the car ran well didn't help. I did test drive it, but it had no tags so only up and down one street one or two blocks long.

After I bought it, I had to get it inspected to complete registration. They said I needed pads and they talked me into rotors, and other than that, the only problem has been the engine splash shield losing two of its push-rivets and dragging on the ground for 5 seconds each time I back out of my parking space. or if I drive on a dirt road with tire ruts and higher in the middle. I fixed it once with Toyota-recommended push-rivets, but they fell out within 2 weeks! Cold out, back hurts, so last week I actually paid a mechanic to do it again. That and the air leak are the only^^ repairs in 5.5 years. Not every car permits this but for $130 or so, I was able to add bluetooth and cell phone/car radio connection to the car radio. And it has a map in the dashboard. I love that, probably never buy another car without it.

^^And I polished the headlight lense, with a kit. Clear as glass now.

****Later I called the first owner, who owned it until 3 weeks before the vendor bought it at auction. Knew her name because of some service station invoice left in the glove box (I had seen that before I bought the car). Found her number with 411.com. She was happy to talk to me and IIRC she said they had tried and failed to fix the check engine light, but had not done something major I was considering. That was my big question. If she'd done it already, I'd know it wouldn't help. (Huh? What would that have been?) Carfax had shown a lot of maintenance and a couple repairs. She bought it new and didn't skimp on maintenance. I saw that before I bought it. They let you use Carfax for free now! I was amazed at that and how much info it had. Including that the timing belt has been changed already. IIRC, she said her new car wasn't a convertible and she missed having one. How does that happen?
Reply to
micky
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No one has mentioned that there are codes and there are pending codes.

IIRC and I might not, some actions (not even counting my own reader which I know can do this) erase the codes and turn off the CELight, but don't erase the pending codes and if the testing machine finds pending codes it's just as bad as having the CEL on.

(Of course they could have diffeent rules for different codes, and it sure seems wrong for an emisssions test to fail you for a transmssion problem that causes no emissions. But maybe the law was written when only emissions problems turned on the cel. Maybe someone could give ou a waiver on this basis, and maybe the law could be changed, but otoh, maybe then they'd need current lists from each manufacturer which codes are/are not emission codes. Or they could have a system, a simple one-letter prefix, like P, and they wouldn't need a list.)

The fancy code tester I mentioned in my long post allows one to check and read codes and pending codes separately and erase them separately. And it's legal. I wouldn't be surprised if the cheap testers only turn off the codes.

I remmember. A pending code shows up as soon as some bad value is reported, but it doesn't turn on the cel until it's rereported so many times or continuously reported for a suffficient time. Becausea there are almost-fluke reports, reports for transient reasons that don't represent an actual problem, and don't set the CEL on. Still it's enough for emissions tests to fail you.

They won't let the emission tester reset codes, I suspect, because there would be too much chance for hanky panky. In some states hanky is permitted but not panky or hanky panky.

I thought about stopping a block from the emissions test, erasing my codes and getting tested 5 minutes later, but then I learned in Maryland if I'm over 70 and drive under 5000 mpy, I don't need to get tested at all.

One year they send me the notice to get tested, but no form to apply for an exemption, and I couldn't find one online. I took some other agency form they had and typed up a duplicate to resemble it with modifications to reflect the proper title and rules for a waiver, and I emailed that in, and they took it. As they should have. Forms are not usually mentioned in statutes; they're creations of agencies to spur users to provide the right information, and in the right place on the paper so clerks can validate it quickly.

Right!

Reply to
micky

Do you still see it listed at $69.99? When I bring it up, I see "Was $69.99", then it says -20% $55.99.

Just wondering if Amazon is still doing the "different prices for different people" trick.

Reply to
Jim Joyce

Clare Snyder snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca> wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

Thought I'd follow up on this.

I went to a qualified transmission only repair shop (ATRA member) that I'd been to many, many years ago and did me well. Been around since

1983 and serivce trannys as far back as 1932. I drove in without an appointment and told the fellow my woes, and what I had learned from this group. Actually, I showed him your comments, and he said, yes, that's what he'd expect from those codes, and that he had three Mazdas in the shop for similar tranny issues/codes. He said Mazda was notorious for those codes, but of course, you don't know the problem until you go down the diagnosis flowchart. He showed me the flowchart for the codes. The first thing to test, for instance, was the connection in pin 14 and 15 of the 24 connection pin on the transmission control module (TCM) that feeds data to the solenoid rotational speed. He showed me all the hotspots that could be responsible for throwing either of the two codes.

He said that the two codes were only reference codes, and did a 'full' scan on the spot, with his scanning computer, so he could see the diagnosis flowchart. No charge. Once done, he showed me the flowchart, which indicated many possible conditions that could throw those two codes, and the diagnosis sequence. His initial thought, from experience, was that the transmission control module, TCM, may be bad, and if so, they send it out (LA area? one to two weeks turn around?) to a guy that resets (or burns new) firmware and returns the TCM. The TCM sits under the hood, not in the tranny.

I drop the car off this Friday, 2/10, for a full diagnosis. He's betting on the TCM. We'll see.

More later, if you're interested.

Reply to
Boris

Bob F snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote in news:trv938$1eht$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me:

transmission

Ok. Stay tuned. <g>

Reply to
Boris

Darn. I thought it was pins 12 and 13. No wonder I was fired from my last job.

I am.

Reply to
micky

Yes, just now it's still 69.99.

I guess so.

Am I the last person who would pay the higher amount since I already have one, and they know it since it says at the top "Last purchased Aug

22, 2018".

Or am I the first person who would pay more because I bought one, must have broken it, but I liked it and want a replacement.

Maybe other people will check the price too.

Reply to
micky

Just wondering if you went to one of those auto parts stores and asked if they would scan your codes and erase them. You would have to check again but would save having to buy a scanner.

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Reply to
invalid unparseable

Definitely interested - sounds like you got the right man on the job.

30 or so years ago I was the man for a lot of that stuff -
Reply to
Clare Snyder

On Fri, 3 Feb 2023 23:13:31 -0000 (UTC), Boris posted for all of us to digest...

IS this a CVT tranny?

Reply to
Hiram T Schwantz

Clare Snyder snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca> wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

Today is Friday, 2/17, a week after dropping the car off at the transmission shop. I don't have the car back, but some encouraging news.

The shop called me and told me all the things they were going to test and examine. They did test drive the car and said there was nothing wrong with the transmission, and that it functions just fine. (Like I said, it runs fine in all gears, whether in auto or manual, forward or backward...no bumps, thumps, noises...).

One of the items on the diagnostic flowchart for the OBDII codes is visual inspection of the tranny fluid. This revealed that the fluid was very dirty (probably my fault for not changing sooner) and it could be limiting flow, so they flushed it out. Codes were still occuring.

They now think that the solenoid in the valve body may be clogged from running with dirty fluid. They are contacting both Mazda and Ford for a solenoid. Both would be new parts, but Ford would be cheaper.

The solenoid sits inside the valve body, and to get to it, they drop the tranny pan (not the tranny itself).

Cost so far is $180 for diagnostic, but they'll drop to $80. Labor to r&r the solenoid is $530. I don't know what the solenoid part costs.

More as I learn more.

Reply to
Boris

Clare Snyder snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca> wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

It's been about six weeks since I first posted. Things are fixed. Cost was $2,682, far less than the $9,000 that the Mazda dealer wanted to replace the tranny. As I originally said, the dealer just looked at the OBDII codes that the car's computer was showing, and said, 'yep, you need a new transmission...$9,000 please'. The dealer just used the smog shop's readout, and didn't care to do a detailed diagnosis.

The specialty tranmission shop that I went to, and that successfully diagnosed and repaired what was wrong, showed me the more than 10 pages of the diagnostic flow chart that they followed to fix the problem, which did not require replacing the entire transmission.

What needed to be replaced? It turned out that they diagnosed that the solenoid needed replacement, which was about $600, but they also wanted to replace the valve body, which houses the solenoid, just to be sure that they didn't have to go back in if it turned out the valve body also needed replacement. That brought the estimate up to $2,2682. I said go ahead.

They didn't have to drop the transmission, since the valve body (with solenoid inside the valve body), resides on the exterior of the transmission, and is accessible without dropping the transmission.

The valve body with solenoid (new, not remanufactured) was gotten from the dealer (independent parts houses didn't carry it), which makes me think that if the dealer carries that part, they could have done the job, but didn't care to go through the diagnosis. "Hey, you need a new transmission. $9,000 please.")

I picked up the car today. Now, I can get it smogged.

Here's a screenshot of the repair invoice:

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Thanks.

Reply to
Boris

Once again, my free diagnosis and recommendation was correct:

"I would probably clear the codes, then if it's set again, take it to a transmission shop. It sounds like a solenoid problem and those can be easily replaced and it's not expensive."

The price was higher than I would have expected though, hopefully you got a warranty too.

Reply to
trader_4

trader_4 snipped-for-privacy@optonline.net wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@googlegroups.com:

Think what you will, but my post was questioning how failure codes work, and danny burstein provided the most usefull information. The problem was already diagnosed by my smog shop and by the dealer, not by you.

Don't break your arm patting yourself on the back.

Reply to
Boris

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