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Toenailing thru pressure wood

I recently bought a watermelon that was cracked.

And when I put a knife in the rind, it cracked more.

But tasted good, and never split in half.

Reply to
micky
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I have a very high quality Milwaukee.

I just had a small project where I had to "toenail" into hardwood and nope, those screws will just not go in...it's definitely not a "lack of power in the drill situation" . Though if I were "toenailing" into soft wood it would have worked...I think those screws really need to be drive straight-in to get a bite.

I had to drill a pilot hole.

As I mentioned before, a pilot hole is a good idea to prevent the wood from cracking.

Reply to
philo 

No, don't buy a 100 foot extension cord.

Buy three 25 foot extension cords and a couple of 10 foot cords instead. That way when you only need a short cord you don't have to bother with a long cord.

Reply to
nestork

with the process of sliding soap on the threads to make it easier to screw them in. I get thru with the points showing through but having resistance w hen penetrating the side pressure wood that I want to connect them to. The cordless drill just can't take it. I went as far as making a mark where it would enter if there were no resistance, with a drill bit. That didn't work ... cause now, the top part of the screw met resistance. Is there a way tha t I could get this done without any snags?

drilled a hole there and now its a matter of holding the wood which is awkw ard, to meet that pre-drilled hole .

ough ..was I suppose to 'soap' that part too?

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Should have uploaded this at the beginning. Sorry..PW should have been PT ( pressure treated )

Reply to
Anthony

If you do not drill the first board it will be difficult for the boards to pull up tight. You have to drill the first board with a large enough hole the screw threads do not cut into the wood and you let the head of the screw keep the wood from pulling back.

Reply to
Ralph Mowery

If you plan to run 100' of extension cord, I suggest 12g, maybe even 10, but probably not 14.

Of course, who needs a bunch of 25' 10g extension cords? Overkill in most cases, but a good idea when you need 100'.

(Let the discussion begin!)

Reply to
DerbyDad03

I did pre drill the main hole, but of course it was smaller than the screw. Are you saying I should have made a larger pre drill hole? I would have no problem in unscrewing it and make a larger drill hole?

Reply to
Anthony

You need to drill the hole on the top board large enough that the screw threads do not touch it. If you do not do it this way, whatever gap you have in the boards when the screw goes into the lower board will tend to stay there unless by chance you strip out the threads in the upper board. The screw should hold by the head and not depend on the threads in the board where the head of the screw is.

In effect you are only screwing into one of the boards.

Reply to
Ralph Mowery

My point was that he can get to the farthest corner of his house and probably his yard with an extension cord, that 100 feet is no problem, and ftm for the small amount a drill uses, I'm sure 200 feet is no problem. I assumed he already had shorter extension cords.

Reply to
micky

For the 38 years I had been on the job, I always used a 100 ft extension cord. #14 is fine, there was no significant voltage drop even using a heavy duty 1/2" drill.

In those 38 years, there was never a time the cord was too short to get to the work area, but a number of times, it /just/ made it.

One day I went to a warehouse and a contractor in there apparently did not believe in extension cords...they were using a /gasoline/ fueled generator. Though the warehouse was huge enough that no one got carbon-monoxide poisoning, it was a really stupid thing to do. Eventually a supervisor told them not to use it.

Reply to
philo 

I have a 100' that I haven't used since I dumped my electric lawn edger. Used it when I had an electric mower, edger, hedge trimmer. It was connected to a 50'. I've used the 50' since for tools when I need the reach. String it through the closest house window, or through a garage door and it reaches everywhere I would need it. The 100' still stays rolled on the garden reel. The 50' is much easier to handle, and I can add a couple 20's to it if I needed to. So unless you're a contractor or have electric lawn equipment, a 100' is overkill. But if you think you need it, buy it. It was nice for mowing the lawn and edging.

Reply to
Vic Smith

I've done a lot of baseboard and never to toe-nailed it except when a stud wasn't available. Then I use finishing nails. Why are you using screws?

Reply to
Vic Smith

I get your point, but in case the OP hasn't, Imagine a long machine screw and you screw a nut on half an inch down the screw. Call this the first nut. Then you screw a second nut on, so the two nuts are a half inch apart. Then you hold both nuts between your thumb and your forefinger and turn the screw clockwise. Both nuts will get closer to the head but they will stay 1/2" from each other. When the first nut reaches the head of the screw or the end of the threads, the screw won't turn anymore and the second nut will still be a 1/2 inch from being tight, and were there anything between the two nuts, it would not be tightly gripped.

The first nut (that is, the hole in the first piece of wood) needs to be big enough that it can move up and down the screw without needing to turn the screw. The hole in the first piece, the top piece, of wood needs to be bigger than the threads in the screw.

unless by chance you strip out the threads in the upper board.

Reply to
micky

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