I'm trying to toenail a couple of galvanized 2 screws. I am familiar with t
he process of sliding soap on the threads to make it easier to screw them i
n. I get thru with the points showing through but having resistance when pe
netrating the side pressure wood that I want to connect them to. The cordle
ss drill just can't take it. I went as far as making a mark where it would
enter if there were no resistance, with a drill bit. That didn't work... ca
use now, the top part of the screw met resistance. Is there a way that I co
uld get this done without any snags?
Ok, just off the top of my head...get a better cordless drill.
I'm have troubling picturing any problem with what you are trying to do
(since you didn't post a picture) but I can't think of a reason why you
would be having trouble, other than a drill with not enough power.
(Just yesterday I watched a guy struggling to enlarge a 3/8" hole in a 3/8”
steel plate with a HF cordless drill. He needed a half inch hole. Must have
taken him 15 minutes and half a can of PB Blaster. Wrong tool and wrong
lubricant. What can I say...)
If you plan to run 100' of extension cord, I suggest 12g, maybe even 10,
but probably not 14.
Of course, who needs a bunch of 25' 10g extension cords? Overkill in most
cases, but a good idea when you need 100'.
(Let the discussion begin!)
On Tue, 8 Jul 2014 21:43:17 +0000 (UTC), DerbyDad03
My point was that he can get to the farthest corner of his house and
probably his yard with an extension cord, that 100 feet is no problem,
and ftm for the small amount a drill uses, I'm sure 200 feet is no
problem. I assumed he already had shorter extension cords.
For the 38 years I had been on the job, I always used a 100 ft extension
cord. #14 is fine, there was no significant voltage drop even using a
heavy duty 1/2" drill.
In those 38 years, there was never a time the cord was too short to get
to the work area, but a number of times, it /just/ made it.
One day I went to a warehouse and a contractor in there apparently did
not believe in extension cords...they were using a /gasoline/ fueled
generator. Though the warehouse was huge enough that no one got
carbon-monoxide poisoning, it was a really stupid thing to do.
Eventually a supervisor told them not to use it.
I have a 100' that I haven't used since I dumped my electric lawn
edger. Used it when I had an electric mower, edger, hedge trimmer.
It was connected to a 50'.
I've used the 50' since for tools when I need the reach. String it
through the closest house window, or through a garage door and it
reaches everywhere I would need it.
The 100' still stays rolled on the garden reel.
The 50' is much easier to handle, and I can add a couple 20's to it if
I needed to.
So unless you're a contractor or have electric lawn equipment, a 100'
is overkill. But if you think you need it, buy it.
It was nice for mowing the lawn and edging.
I think your drill is not strong enough? It is one shot deal without
pause once you start. I used quite an amount of PT planks for our front
and rear deck at our cabin. . Make sure battery is fully charged. Zap,
zap... screw goes down so effortlessly. When wood is very dry it needs
more torque for sure. Make sure Robertson or Phillips bit is fresh one.
On Sunday, July 6, 2014 6:01:44 PM UTC-4, Tony Hwang wrote:
th the process of sliding soap on the threads to make it easier to screw th
em in. I get thru with the points showing through but having resistance whe
n penetrating the side pressure wood that I want to connect them to. The co
rdless drill just can't take it. I went as far as making a mark where it wo
uld enter if there were no resistance, with a drill bit. That didn't work..
. cause now, the top part of the screw met resistance. Is there a way that
I could get this done without any snags?
Can you tell me how one can tell if a cordless drill is not strong enough,
other than a weak battery? BTW, this one takes the 18v lithium battery
You should drill wood with the proper size bit. Check this chart for one:
You may want to check this out:
There are tapered bits epecially for wood screws.
I agree with Ralph Mowery on this one. If your cordless drill can't
drive the screw in, then predrill a hole for the screw.
Choose your drill bit size according to the "root" diameter of the
screw, which is the solid core of the screw. Doing that actually
produces a better fastening because you get nearly the same holding
power of the screw while putting substantially less splitting force in
the wood. Any place that sells fasteners should be able to order X-tra
long drill bits in the size you need.
Soap is something I used a lot more of when I didn't own a drill. Are
you using your drill only to screw in the screws, or are you drilling a
hole first, like you should?
I believe some people even drill small holes for nails.
On Monday, July 7, 2014 4:45:50 AM UTC-4, micky wrote:
h the process of sliding soap on the threads to make it easier to screw the
m in. I get thru with the points showing through but having resistance when
penetrating the side pressure wood that I want to connect them to. The cor
dless drill just can't take it. I went as far as making a mark where it wou
ld enter if there were no resistance, with a drill bit. That didn't work...
cause now, the top part of the screw met resistance. Is there a way that I
could get this done without any snags?
Like I said in my OP i did get the screw through the bulk pw and a half in
ch ot the screw is showing ...my problem is getting that part of the screw
into the other pw. I predrilled a hole there and now its a matter of holdin
g the wood which is awkward, to meet that pre-drilled hole . In the meantim
e, the unthreaded part of the screw is not able to go through ..was I suppo
se to 'soap' that part too?
My idea of using drill is to save time. If pilot holes have to be
drilled for every screw to fasten, that defeats the purpose of using
drill. What's the point of owning a tool which is not up to the task at
hand? If it is for one time use, one can rent proper one at a small expense.
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