Chances are this is a VINYL floor and not linoleum. But yes, the floor can not
be tiled over if it's a NOT a perimeter glue down.
To tile over a vinyl floor, it must be firmly glued (all over) to the concrete
and not curling at seems or edges. The floor should be stripped of wax,
grease, dirt or any other build up. Roughing up is only needed if the floor
still shines like the day it was new. You need to use a thinset recommended
for use over vinyl or mix standard thinset with latex additive (no water).
Advantages to leaving a _well glued_ vinyl floor on concrete: Not having to
strip the vinyl floor adhesive where application was excessive. The vinyl
floor is one of the best anti-fracture membranes one can have on a slab floor.
If you remove the vinyl floor and cracks are evident, you must use an
anti-fracture membrane to stop them from transmitting through the tile.
Disadvantages: Having to listen to every Tom, Dick & Harry who tells you it
Tom Dick and Harry and Susy have seen 1200 yr old floors that
are fine , have you seen a 20 yr old floor over linolium that IS
good , NO, YOU havnt ... Remember tile and concrete breathes out
moisture , plastic Doesnt. What happens when a big leak or flood
occurs. THEY HAPPEN... And long term over plastic well , you
make me laugh , Got yo money, so yo replace it in 10 yrs. Hack
Not only have I seen a 20+ year old floor tile set over vinyl, I placed it.
Still tight and crack free today!
If this were true, every shower pan set over a vinyl liner would have failed or
will soon fail. This is flawed logic.
If there is a leak or a flood bad enough to get under the vinyl floor and ruin
the bond, then you will have much more serious flood damage to worry about than
one loose tile floor.
I've seen one year old floors, set directly on slabs, that were failing. Any
floor that is not properly done, will fail (some faster than others). The
correct thinset, the mixing of the thinset, additives or no additives, correct
thinset application and the condition of the substrate all factor in.
A first timer who takes a "tile class" at a box store is risking much. One
simply can't learn all that is required in a two hour box store class. Yes,
there are hack tile setters and there are also good ones who know the craft
inside and out. To condem one who simply counters your advice is ignorant. I
stand by my orginal statement.
Heck, even Art James (like him or hate him, he knew his craft) would not just
blindly discount setting tile on vinyl over a slab. If the vinyl meets the
requirements, the job will last!
Of course. Our friend is talking out his rear end and using circular reasoning
to back up his flawed response. Not looking to start a flame war, but I would
like to share rational fact based responses and debunk those that are not based
upon good logic.
On Tue, 28 Oct 2003 00:03:20 -0600 (CST), firstname.lastname@example.org (mark
It's not on concrete and it's not twenty years old yet (about ten),
but my kitchen floor is ceramic tile on linoleum that was not removed
due to possible asbestos. It is showing absolutely no sign of
problems. The bathroom floor is the same except only four years old.
I have a vinyl floor in the kitchen and the tile installed has suggested laying
tile over it rather than taking it up and putting some kind of board down.
Said it would keep the floor lower and that the vinyl would act as a barrier in
case something spilled and went through the tile.
You know what would really save you money? Leave the vinyl in place and
don't install tile. The cost is merely $50 for my consulting fee. If the
installer will guarantee that you won't have a problem and you trust the
guarantee, go ahead.
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