I'm sorry, Lawrence, you just aren't right. This has been done
for ages to remove bearing walls. It is important that the
carrier beam be sized for the load and that the holding method be
adequate. Why would the beam care if the joists were on top, in
plane, or underneath? It is still a uniformly distributed load.
It would be much lighter for the OP to make a truss. Take the
precut pieces up in the attic and assemble in location. My age is
showing now, but I have seen the hangers done with 2x2 lumber and
nails. I would definitely go with the angle iron approach.
Prepunched is fine, but expensive. A joint of 2x2x1/8 would be
less expensive and you drill your own holes, though the Simpson
twist straps might be adequate. Engineering input is always
A live Singing Valentine quartet,
Could you explain what the advantage is to putting the new beam on top
of the joists instead of in line with the joists (so the bottoms are
lined up)? The latter seems much simpler in a variety of ways, but
perhaps I'm missing something.
One advantage is not having to build shoring walls to carry the
load while you cut the joists to be able to struggle, and I do
mean struggle, to get the beam up between the cuts and then
install the joist hangers. Depending on the length involved and
the clearance you are willing to allow on the joist hangers, you
are asking a lot to have a beam straight enough to slide right up.
You need to have the new beam in location under the cut before you
install the shoring walls.
If it is going to be an attic space or other use where the beam on
the "floor" won't create a problem, it can be an elegant solution.
A live Singing Valentine quartet,
The guy I used to work for had the exact same thing done in his house.
They had part of a load bearing wall opened up and did not want the
supporting beam it required to be in the room, so it was installed in
the attic, just as the OP is wanting to do. However. if I ever saw how
it was attatched to the joists, I do not remember. Larry
This is a perfect topic. I'm in the midst of doing this right now.
Heres what Im up against
I'm removing the wall in question. The joists that span over it are
2x5's I think. They run 10 feet and sit on top of the wall in
question, then continue on another foot and are face nailed to a 2X5
joist running from an inside load bearing wall to the back wall. I
cut the sheetrock from under that joist and slipped in a joist hangar
on each joist. Then i went up and installed two 2x12's that also sit
on the middle load wall and span over to the back wall. I then
nailed and screwed the original 2x5 joist to the sistered 2x12. Do
you think this will be enough support? The 2x12 witht he 2x5 nailed
to it span 11 feet. When I ripped the plaster off the wall to expose
the studs, I noticed that all the studs were pretty loose. I figured
if there was a big weight load on them, then would they not be under
compression? I can see the nail shanks on some of them coming through
the top plate.
You did, see quote below my comment. He is taking out a load bearing
wall below and wants a flat ceiling it seems. I have the same type
thing in my home, but mine has an overhead engineered truss through
the center instead of the overhead beam that uses angle iron straps
like I suggested.
"I don't want to just hang the beam, I want it on top (because I am
removing a wall below and don't want it to show). The beam will be
supported with blocking at both ends, so the beam will still support
the joists. I looked through the simpson site and didn't see anything
that jumped out at me for this."
If he puts it above, I'm curious how he plans to get the beam up there. Poke
a hole in the outside wall above the ceiling line? Unless the space is wider
than it is long, or there is access from another floor into one end of the
space, it is gonna be hard getting it up there through a joist space.
I don't really understand your project, but welding is a lot cheaper
than I imagine it. The guy around here is in a suburban, neighborhood
welding shop. I don't know what the bulk of his work is, but the last
pair of things he welded together for me cost about 10 dollars.
Another guy on the opposite side of town was going to charge about the
same, but I didn't have the parts with me. In my case, the two parts
belonged to me. I suppose he'll charge a bit to provide the steel.
It's good for you to look into this. Maybe you are like me. I always
imagine that something I have never bought before, and that my parents
had never bought, is very expensive. Lucite, foam rubber, welding
were all much cheaper than I imagined. The 6 x 12 piece of lucite I
wanted was a dollar! I thought it would be much more.
Of course in this case, I don't know how complicated the bracket is,
and I could be wrong. :) but check.
replying to Ed, Raquesh wrote:
Hi Ad, Just wondering if you found a solution yet. I know exactly what you are
talking about because I am faced with the same problem - Beam above the joists.
How to hang the joists. I do know it is being done when they do not want to
expose the beams, but no one will tell me how
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