thinning two part epoxy?

[JB Haskins]

I have a small project that needs epoxy to bond one section. Unfortunately, the area where the epoxy needs applies is narrow. The last time I tried it, I attempted using a cut off syringe, like diabetics use, except the needle was cut off and the cylinder cut away until is was maybe 1/8 to 1/4" thick. Unfortunately, I was not able to draw any of the mixed "5 minute" two part epoxy into the syringe as it was too thick.

The epoxy I'm using is just the small, twin cylinder type that premixes in either a small tray as part of the package or in something else. I'm just wondering what I can do to lessen the viscosity without compromising strength or other properties when dried. I was just thinking of putting the package under a heat lamp set at like 110 F for a couple of hours. Thoughts and experiences welcome and thanks in advance.

[invalid unparseable]

Not knowing what the area look like I might try pushing it into the opening with something like a tooth pick. Warming may lower viscosity but heat will accelerate set and only having 5 minutes it might set much faster. There are epoxies that take high temperature cures but I don't see them for general market. If you use a longer cure mix you might get away with higher temperature.

[trader_4]

I looked into this some time ago. The answer is that you can thin it, I think acetone, toluene, and similar could be used. But the trade off is that it does lessen the strength and the more solvent you add, the more it lessens the strength. I'm sure if you google for thinning epoxy you will find similar and figure out how it applies to your application.

It's not like semiconductors where you get smaller die size, lower cost, lower power consumed, faster speed as you mover to smaller feature size. That process seems to be unique. Usually it's better, faster, cheaper, pick any two.

[hubops]

For a small project - requiring only a few drops of glue - I've used a scrap of plastic - cut from a margerine lid - and used it to spread the glue into the small crack - after placing drops of glue along the opening. Perhaps a dental syringe - loaded from the top - rather than trying to suck up the glue .. ?

John T.

[micky]

What hubops said. Mix it on a piece of glossy cardboard and spread it on with a piece of plastic or a popsicle/corn dog stick, or a toothpick.

That seems like a really bad idea to me. I love glue. I used to have

17 kinds, one for every purpose (but now I sit at the computer and the glue dries out. )

They used to sell at the store iirc 1-minute, 5-minute, and 30 minute epoxy. One-minute requires real speed but has its uses. I mostly bought 5-minute (which I could hold in my hand until it set, if clamping was difficult) and maybe so many people did that they stopped selling 30 minute.

I've tried superglue several times and it never works for me. It doesn't even stick to my hands. ;-(

[rbowman]

How much strength do you need? Acetone will thin it but is going to affect the strength and curing time. Another option might be pourable epoxy. Hobby shops generally have it in small quantities for decoupage projects.

Heating may be the best idea if you're fast. From the description you're not going to be using enough volume where the exotherm will be a problem.

[Clare Snyder]

I never had any luck with "supergle" but there is a calle "la-gle" I have ha lick wih - a well as a product from Beta sold by Toolway that has a high viscosity "crazy glue" and a promer or accellerator - spray one surface - glue the other - and it is DONE!! really sticks he fingers too- - - -

[croy]

I bought some epoxy that was specially for adhering rear-view mirrors to windshields of cars, and it turned out to be very thin.

[Clare Snyder]

Never had any luck with the epoxy for that. Thick cyanoacrilate with primer has worked for me.

[gfretwell]

Ace sells some in 2 bottles that makes about 6-7 oz total. It is about as thick as maple syrup and does a pretty good job of penetrating cracks if you work it in with a plastic putty knife. Sometimes I will use a mix of thick and thin epoxy, using the thin to coat everything and adding the thicker stuff, even the paste to build up the area. I have fixed those carbon fiber radiator end caps in two cars doing that and using a couple layers of aluminum window screen to give it tensile strength. It lasted years until I got rid of the cars.

[micky]

I used rear view mirror glue and it only lasted a few days the first time. I did it again and it lasted for years, forever.

Then I think a second car had a problem and I found a glue packaged like the rear view mirror glue (in a capsule?) except you got two capsules for what one cost if it was labeled rear view mirror. That worked the first time I think.

[Ralph Mowery]

I have never tried it,but on TV they advertise some glue that uses UV light to make it 'stick'. I think that some dentists use that type at times. That might be worth trying.

[micky]

My previous dentist has done that a few times. I forget why, where, and when.

[micky]

I still don't fully appreciate your problem but I'll also recommend PC-70, which is grey, and a simlar product which is white.

They are not thin at all but they are like modelling clay and once mixed, maybe you can forced it in your crack with a spatula of some sort.

They stick ot anything, even glass apparently, and I first used it to patch a drain while the faucent was dripping. The mixed glue kept droopin down as the water hit it but I kept pushing it up and after a few minutes it set and the drain didn't leak!!

Two four ounce cans seems the best size. If you're careful to never let one can's stuff touch the other can's, it lasts for years, maybe forever.

[Clare Snyder]

Sounds good, but in practice it's a bit different - I've got some - both the "pen" style afvertized on late night TV and industrial stuff from Kafuter. Needs a pretty strong UV light to cure it - and at least one side pretty much needs to be transparent and not UV Opaque