Not spinning or agitating. Timer, water on/off ok.
All checked out ok so far: door lift switch, level sensing tube and pressure switch, fuse, all connections good. Motor belt ok.
Tomorrow will check out motor. Any other idears what the trouble cause is?
This guys videos are excellent...
Is this a mechanical timer? If so, that it advances and powers some functions doesn't mean that the switch powering the the motor is working. Is there power at the motor when the timer is calling for agitation? (Actually the same question still applies if it has an electronic timer.) IOW, how do you know the timer is good, just because it ticks away to the end of the cycle? Not enough.
A) I wouldn't "cut the end" off an extension cord. I'd be more like to cut the plug and one foot of wire off the extension cord, then add a plug to the whats left of it, so I'd still have an extesion cod and a one foot cheater cord to use the way he wants you to.
B) I'd have to think about it some more but I almost certainly wouldn't cut all four wires. At most I'd cut the ones for the first test. if they determine that the motor is bad, why cut the other two, just to determine the same thing?
But I doubt I'd cut any. 40 years ago I bought box of 10** insulation-piercing alligator clips. They have many uses. Two of them I connected to a cheater cord like he wants you to make, but better. One use would be to power the motor without cutting anything ---AFTER I unplugged the washer and AFTER I deterimined that sending power backwards from where he wants you to cut the wire would not hurt anything. On first blush now, I don't think it would.
**They only sold them in boxes of 10I also have two of my insulation piercing alligator clips on a simple jumper wire. Before applying power to the motor, I think I would pierce the inulation and see if there is power to the motor when it's in the agitate or spin section of the cycle. AFTER making sure the machine is plugged in and turned on and in the right cycle stage.
I don't like the idea of depending on butt connectors. I think it's possible to think you've done a good job of crimping and find that it falls apart when you're not looking.
But it's also not super-easy to apply the in-piercing clips. You may well have to supplement the spring by manual squeezing (although less likely maybe since the new clips are better than mine), and I think it's possible to close the clips while missing the wires. The ohmmeter function allows you to see if you've hit the wires.
Well, they don't seem to sell clips quite as cheap as the ones I bought
40 years ago. New ones might work better. Most come with wires attached now.Thanks micky. I just realized 40 years ago was 1979.... 40 years seemed a lot longer in the old days.
Below was my comment at the ge site. This model would have been first class if they had given it a good testing before throwing out on the market.
GE® 4.1 IEC Cu. Ft. Colossal Capacity High-Efficiency Washer | WHRE5550KWW | GE Appliances
Ge should have said this 8 years ago. Terrible washer from day 1.
Rated 1.8 our of 5 with 54 feedback comments
35 out of 50 rates 1. That tells the story. GE misunderstood the purpose of a washer is to clean clothes first, water saving later. Only way to be sure clothes are clean.... Wash small loads and set for max load. Add dertegent, one cup of white distilled vinegar and 1/2 cup of baking soda and works fine. BUT... normal cotton sleeves and thin clothes come out twisted in knots... this does not happen with older ge machines. So much lint with no screen filter, have to clean dryer filter several times per 30 min cycle or it takes an hour to dry. Spinning 700 rpm is much too fast... Leaves permanent creases in clothes. Pump speed too fast for 1.5 in drains typical in 1960-70s tract homes.... required modifying standpipe so that pipe would overflow horizontally to outside and not backup in washer. I have troubleshot nearly every component and circuit... No problem with quality of hardware or basic design. Need real people not programmers to use the products and modify so it works properly. I am not a pro, just a guy who is very happy that the motor that finally failed after 10 years costs $200... so i can get a better machine and have clean clothes again. Will sell good parts, circuit boards, etc on ebay since most are very expensive.
I wonder how fast mine goes. 700 is almost 12rp/second. Hard to believe any washer can do that. It might fly away. I would guess mine is about 3 or 4 rps / 180 to 240 rpm.
I have a laundry sink so that is not an issue, but may people don't, especially I think the ones with laundry rooms on the 2nd floor.
The only thing i like about this model is i only replaced one low cost electrical part at least 5 years ago and cant remember even what it was. If this failure had been a simple swap out of parts i would fix and keep it. But a 10 years washer is not worth spending over $200 and still not doing a good job cleaning.
GE Washer WHRE5550KWW... Mfr 2009
Biggest negatives have been high speed noisy spin. Lack of lint filter. Pump flowrate is too high for drain pipe size. Whoever dreamed up their agitator-free method did it by theory and did not see that it does not work in normal clothes. Any one of these are reasons i would avoid it.
Will start new thread now
Maybe a lesson to learn here is that it can be risky to buy things that deviate from the tried and true designs? I've never seen an agitator-free model, except for front loaders, but then I haven't been looking at washers in a long, long time. Seems to me, agitation is a good and necessary thing. I would suspect a big potential problem today is that manufacturer's are being pushed or forced to use less and less water and energy.
I've avoided agitator free models for that reason. The biggest problem is even "bad" washers usually usually outlast the lifetime of the reviews. "Discontinued." I bought a GE model WJRE5500G1WW 12 years ago that's still working fine. But when my basement flooded 5 years ago I spent about $300 for a new motor and shaft/clutch, so I count 5 years service. And that model is "discontinued."
We bought a Maytag top loading washer a few months back. I don't think you could call the thing that sticks up about 3 inches an agitator. Atleast not what I am think of that goes up and down. This machine has a clear top. Youcan see the cloths just swishing back and forth.
That thing sure makes funny noises as it works. It messes aorund for a short time to weigh the cloths and then puts in the ammount of water it thinks it needs. Only thing it does like the old one is spin dry.
I hope it holds together. It does say a 10 year wattenty on the motor.
Good to hear the comments. If my ge had cleaned well i would soend $$$ ti fix. But poor service *and* expensive repairs and ge recommending replacing after ten years...... Duheeee....
FYi, heres a trouble chart for the motor. Easy to check, will post the results when i get over the urge to piss on it.
Mine, a Sears whirlpool made in 1979, doesn't have a lint filter either. The manual says it has a lint chopper. Maybe yours has that too.
This might be good, but I'm one of 4 houses where when the stream nearby is at flood stage, it overflows the sewer manhole cover in the middle of the extended stream bed, and it backs up into my basement. I put in a one-way valve in sink drain but it didn't work, I think because chopped up lint kept the door from closing all the way.
If I lived somewhere else, a lint chopper would be okay with me, assuming they are legal and afaik they are.
If it has no agitator, how does it push the soapy water through the clothing?
Do you mean it has one of those vertical things with fins going one direction, so the clothing tumbles?
That sounds very good. AIUI, if it fails in less than 10 years, you get a free watten.
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