Swimming Pool Filter recommendations

It appears that my SS Nautilus 48 DE filter needs replacement. Any recommendations would be appreciated.

Reply to
Pointer
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Have a Pentair that is about 7 years old now. Still using the original media/element, but that part is nearing the end of it's life. First small hole in the fabric has shown up and the plastic frame inside the elements is getting brittle, some has cracked and broken.

But that brings up another question. Do you need a whole new filter? In the case of the above, the media can be replaced for $180 or so, about 1/4 the cost of a whole new filter.

Reply to
trader4

Hard to tell what I need until I disassemble. The filter is passing debris to the screen filter on the old polaris. The pool guy says I need a new filter and a valve, which is hard to believe. He further states that the elements on the current Nautilus are not available which is incorrect.

Reply to
Pointer

When the hired guy is telling you things that are clearly not true, it's time to get a different hired guy.

Hard to tell what I need until I disassemble. The filter is passing debris to the screen filter on the old polaris. The pool guy says I need a new filter and a valve, which is hard to believe. He further states that the elements on the current Nautilus are not available which

is incorrect.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

A bad seal or the plate sticking in the multi-port valve is another possible cause. Seal can be replaced, valve lubed. First thing I'd do is take apart the filter and check the elements. Besides the elements there is probably an O-ring or two to check also.

Reply to
trader4

OP. Regarding the o-rings only ...

You can replace all the necessary o-rings at a fraction of the cost at a pool supply house simply by determining the trade number of that o-ring.

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The easiest way to determine that trade number is to google for the part number, but add to your search an O-# designation, such as O-100 (or similar search).

Once you have the trade size, you'll be amazed how an $18 filter o-ring turns into a $1 trade-size o-ring.

As for material, unless you have a chlorinator, you can use the standard buna-N (aka nitrile) o-rings.

The team here is very helpful as they taught me all I know. Good luck.

Reply to
Danny D

I have a Pentair cartridge with four elements. It's about eight years old and the elements are still okay.

My neighbor has a DE filter that he doesn't like. I don't think anyone puts in new DE filters anymore.

Reply to
sms

Every new pool here that I've seen uses a DE. What exactly is wrong with the one your neighbor has?

Reply to
trader4

I am still not sure why people don't like the paper cartridge filter. My pool is screened in so I don't get a lot of trash in it but the filter lasts for years, just getting cleaned once or twice a year and they are about $50.

Reply to
gfretwell

I don't know how you get away with cleaning the filter just twice a year. With a DE, I clean it about every two days during spring start up that lasts a week. Then during the normal season, I'd say about once every 3 weeks or so.

Reply to
trader4

< slightly off topic >

If you do go for a cloth cartridge filter, I haven't yet been able to figure out whether they can be sourced by trade size (like O-rings can).

If you do buy a cloth-cartridge style replacement, let us know if there is a cross reference to trade sizes, which would help everyone if it exists.

Reply to
Danny D

Mine are about ten times that cost, so it may greatly depend on the size of the OP's pool:

- Sta-Rite System 3 Model S8M150,

- 259 sqft (large) cartridge P/N 25022-0203S ~$250

- 191 sqft (small) cartridge P/N 25021-0202S ~$200

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Still, you're wholly right that cloth lasts years; and I only clean mine once a year (although I probably should clean it more often). Even then, I just use a garden hose, although I'm going to rig the bucket for an overnight soak the next time I try it).

Mine is at least 3 years old, and, the only wear I see (despite Oren's objections to my optimistic assessment) are from when I used the 2600psi pressure washer on the pleats.

The pressure washer was just too strong (even with the tamest nozzle I could put on it).

Nowadays, I just use the 60psi to 80psi garden hose with a brass nozzle on the end (all the plastic nozzles broke within two years!). Next time they'll soak in Dawn.

Reply to
Danny D

I have a 100 sq/ft filter and it takes about 6 months to get a 10 PSI rise. (15,000 gallons). I assume the screen cage cuts down a lot on the dirt level.

Reply to
gfretwell

I think my filter instructions say 8 psi which, for me, is about at the 3/4 year mark or so.

BTW, do you think this tool would be difficult to make at home?

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Seems like a curved pipe with holes drilled in it?

Reply to
Danny D

My Hayward DE filter has been going since 1986. The only problem was the motor stopped working about 8 years ago on the morning of July 4th when we were going to have a party that day. A quick trip to the pool supply store had it back in business in time. Of course, it was made in America back then. Who knows who makes them now.

Reply to
willshak

I tried to buy a motor at Leslies and they don't stock 'em. They'll order them, but don't stock them. Did yours have an entire correct motor in stock?

Reply to
Danny D

My pool store has a selection of complete pumps in stock but not just the motor. They do have some motors in the warehouse and YMMV in how long it might take to pull it and ship it to the store. It is usually the next day. I have collected a pretty good assortment of motors and pumps from neighbors and rebuilt them so I am set.

One suggestion is to use unions where the pumps connect so it is an easy swap out. That is also handy if you are in a place where you "close" pools. You can store them in the house/shed/garage all winter.

Reply to
gfretwell

That's a good idea, rebuilding spare motors:

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I've always wanted a 2 HP bench grinder, for example! :)

Thanks to the help here, I found out it's easy to stock the parts of my AO Smith (now Century) motors for rebuilding:

  1. 6203-2RS double-sealed bearings (two per motor)
  2. 8x32" threaded SS rod (four thru-bolts per motor)
  3. TefGel or equivalent PTFE dissimilar-metal anti-seize

Indeed!

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Thanks to folks here, I took their advice and planned ahead by piping my pumps the same up to the unions, so I can even more easily swap them out, if/when needed:

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Reply to
Danny D

I did re purpose a 1HP pump motor to spin up a Gast air pump to use as a hookah for the kids to play with in the pool.

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Reply to
gfretwell

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