A constant aggravation in remodeling work is getting a really good
painted surface where old fixtures have been removed, e.g., towel
racks, ceiling mounted lights etc. The the problem begins and ends
the lazy painters. Left to their own devices they will paint around
instead of removing and reinstalling. So when it comes time to remove
the fixture for relocation or a different size or shape, you're
at a little valley from the base wall up to the 5th layer of paint.
painter will hit this with a little sanding that does nothing but
smooth the sides
of the valley, so when the final paint is on you can still see the
of the old fixture.
So, what's the best way to handle this?
(Not my original post, but ...)
Right, because my 30 year old self was around to approve the hiring of
the painter in 1905, 1922, 1938, 1954, 1967, 1972, etc. when the 105
year house I recently sold was painted. When I remodeled portions of
that house, we saw at LEAST 6 layers of paint over what turned out to be
wall paper, which in turn had been put over several MORE layers of paint.
I did not take the lowest, but neither did I take the highest of three
bids. How much would
expect it should cost? The job in question was an 8x10 bathroom, 7x7
and 15 x 13 kitchen. All are quite ordinary rooms, using oil based
paint. Two colors in the bathroom, and another two colors in the bath
The kitchen included doing an orange peel texture.
Can you tell me what would be a reasonable price for this job? I live
in Orange County, CA,
which is a major metropolitan area. A nice area, but definitly not
If you are willing to spend a few bucks for a roll of 3M sanding disks,
you can level just about anything with an air sander and the right
coarseness of grit on the paper. I'm talking about the ones that have a
self-adhesive on the back and are sold to the autobody trade.
I agree with the sanding disk idea, though I don't think you'll need an
air sander. An orbital sander will do it. You'll have to sand it down
and skim the area with some drywall mud to get a nice consistent
And after sanding the mud you'll probably want to use a roller to
prime/seal the area -- this will start getting the roller texture to
match the of the walls.
One way to ensure the painter doesn't just paint around the fixture is
to remove it yourself. Even some of the higher priced guys will take
Thanks. This is the kind of advice I was looking for.
This time I did remove the fixtures, but alas I did not do so for
several previous paintings.
I guess what bugs me is the painter's estimate said "surface
When I asked him about that before giving him the job he said, "don't
worry, we take of all that." Afterwards, he says "Oh, surface prep
means filling nail holes and sanding where we patch. We are not
for surface imperfections." If he had been more forthcoming at the
pointing out where there would be problems he didn't plan to deal
I would have attacked them more vigorously myself.
Thanks for listening, and your help.
Yeah, it can get tiresome trying to pinpoint exactly what a contractor
has in mind. Nail holes ARE surface imperfections, but so are fuzzies
from previous roller covers, or junk in the paint that ends up as bumps
[boogers] on the walls.
Saying "don't worry, we take of all that" doesn't sound right, as
though it's a brush-off. Sometimes you have to pay attention to the way
a conversation goes as much as the specific points within the
conversation. You're not in the business and you don't see the little
things that come up during a job -- good contractors have the
experience, so they should be the one mentioning the little details.
Good contractors like to know what to expect as much as the customer
does. A good relationship leads to repeat business, which can be great
for both involved.
As others have said, sand and filler. Coupla things though. I
wouldn't use a power sander as there could be lead paint under there
and while I don't know how dangerous a little bit of lead dust in the
air could be, it's just not necessary to sand a depression so it looks
flush. All you need to do is rough it up a little to give the filler
something to key to.
On plaster, I hand sand with 60-grit then level with finish plaster.
On dryall, I use a sanding sponge and joint compound. Hand sand
again, then prime that spot, let it dry, then prime the whole wall.
90% of successful painting is in the preparation. Real pro painters
know this but the problem is that just about anyone can swing a paint
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