I need to install a sump pump in my crawl space to get rid of water
if and when. My need has magnified this year because of the large
amount of snow melt and unusually high rain fall in this Delaware
I am lead to believe that I can make a pit in a low spot in order to
draw in the water and then use a sump pump to direct the water
outside. I plan to try to use a pre-fab plastic pit liner if I can
find one. I plan to add holes in the bottom of the liner if not
already there, and then use a submersible sump pump inside the liner
surrounded by crushed stone.
I want the thing to be automatic, so I don't have to mess with it. IE
run when there's water - not run (off) otherwise. I notice many
pumps use an outside-the-pump float mechanism to provide the automatic
ness. I don't want that. I would like the pump to have an automatic
switch internal in the pump. I see pumps advertised as automatic,
but I want to be sure they work that way. Do they?
I guess I could buy one at Lowes and try it.
On Mar 24, 7:53 am, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Those external float switches work pretty well, and at least if it
fails you can get at it without taking the whole thing apart. I'd get
one with semi- trash pump capability, all the junk in the area will
migrate to your sump. You can help that situation by making the sump
deeper, that will let some of the debris settle when the pump is off.
On Mar 24, 9:27 am, email@example.com wrote:
Regarding the liner or sump basin, they have them at Lowes or HD in
the section with sump pumps or where they have 4" drainage pipe and
similar solutions. I would not "surround" the sump pump with
crushed stone. In this application, I don't think I'd use stone at
all. I'd place the pump on top of some concrete pavers or similar
that will support it and leave 12" at the bottom. With water
running into the pit from a dirt surface, over time you will get dirt,
sand, etc in the bottom of the pit. If you have crushed stone down
there, you have a real mess. Without it, you could remove the sump
pump and scoop out the material.
I would think it matters little whether you have a pump with an
On Mar 24, 7:53 am, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Actually, it sounds like you have it figured out. Don't mess with
pedestal-type pumps. Go with a good submersible in the 3/4 - 1 hp
range. We have had both the external and electronic switching and
both work well. Our particular pump is Basement Watchdog but there
are a lot of other good pumps like Grainger. the pump is the heart of
everything so a little more investment in power will be good. The
plastic sumps are available in most big-box stores or lumber yards.
In fact, our son retrofitted his basement using a large Rubbermaid
storage tub because he wanted plenty of room to install a good backup
pump. The plumbing is straight-forward PVC but make sure everything
from foundation-out has a slight slant to keep water from standing in
the pipe outside. If you have much of a rise from pump to foundation
exit, a backflow valve is good too.
Put the sump in a low spot, and if necessary cut rough channels to the
Little Giant has several complete packages that include the back
water valve, pit box, alarm and switch. I've installed several of
these. Don't put gravel inside the box, this only complicates
monitoring and replacement:
check other listings for vertical head, deeper pits, greater
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
one more thing,, if you really need a sump pump to keep the water at
buy 2 and keep one ready as a backup...
also figure out what you are going to do when the power goes out..
get a big UPS or a small generator
Well, I have thought it out and have bought a Water Ace R33SP 1/3hp
unit at Lowes - the price was right. Right or wrong, I decided I
really did not need a unit as strong as a 1/2hp. My decision was
based on the fact that I have only got water in my crawl space once in
11 years, and so may never see it again in my life time because I am
already 79 and rather feeble. This February I got hit with 4 feet of
snow in a double blizzard, followed by large scale melting made worse
by torrential rain storms. Further, I don't have 20A service there.
Lastly, I figure I only had 3 or so inches of water which collected
very slowly and so should be quick and easy to dispose of. I figure
a strong pump would come on and off repeatedly because of the slow
encroachment of water, and I fear that would be hard on a 1/2 hp
pump. That's my thinking anyway.
That said, I bought a 18" wide plastic planter to line the sump pit
which probably will be some 18" deep, and in the lowest spot I can
I plan to cut some holes in the side of the planter, but it already
has the usual 1" holes in the bottom. I wonder.......How many and
what size holes should I make in the side. Should I enlarge or
increase the number of the holes in the bottom? Should I cover the
I plan to connect PVC to the pump to convey the effluent at least 50
feet and maybe 200 feet (in order to reach the roadside ditch).
My last wonderment is how should I place the pump in the planter?
Flat on the bottom, or on four 2" X 8" bricklets I bought at Lowes to
raise the pump. My soil is semi-sandy by the way (here in Delaware).
You are on the right track.
Cut slots, many slots not more than an inch wide all around the bottom of
the crock. Overdig the diameter of your crock's hole, set it in and fill
the area surrounding the entire crock with 57's limestone (plain driveway
gravel, not pea sized gravel). This will serve to filter out the gunk
before it gets to your pump. Set the pump in the crock. Don't set it up on
anything, and don't put any gravel or anything else inside the crock, except
your pump. Keep in mind, you may not need to dig the crock it's full 24" -
36" depth, whatever it may be, as long as you cut those slots in the bottom,
but you do need to dig it deep enough to keep the pump submerged, because
they are indeed cooled by the water they drain. Most automatics take care
of that issue themselves with the factory float settings. I'd suggest a
heavier unit with a cast iron body, such as the Zoeller M-53. I'm still
paying under $100 for them and they outlast most everyones all plastic
cheapies from the big box stores that cost $15-$30 more.
Good Luck, Lefty
whatever hose you use, remember it will get heavy when it fills w/
water and the pressure will make it try to flex, you may need to
fasten it to something solid every few feet...
also its a good idea to run the pump for a few seconds at least once
per month so that the bearings do not seize...
the external float switches are good, as long as you leave enough room
in the pit for them to swing up and down..
On Wed, 24 Mar 2010 22:51:52 -0400, "Ed Pawlowski"
Yah - I could have guessed something like that.
The pump I was considering at Lowes yesterday had a hose fitting on
it. They were out of it naturally. It was a Utilite 1/3 HP.
I guess the one recommended here was bigger? I can see the point of
long-term wear and flow restriction.
You've had lots of good suggestions.
I'll add only one. You need to know about where *everything*
(sewer, drain pipes etc) is located under the floor before you
dig the sump pit. For obvious reasons. Expect to run into
most anything (rebar, old construction garbage/filler, etc)
as you dig.
On Wed, 24 Mar 2010 08:53:14 -0400, email@example.com wrote:
"Law Without Equity Is No Law At All. It Is A Form Of Jungle Rule."
On Mar 24, 9:53 am, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
We have lined a sump pit using a 'milk crate'; after cutting a hole in
the concrete basement floor the crate was sunk into the ground below,
water draining into it from the weeping tile around the footings. The
pump sits in the sump and operates when its built in float switch
A typical crate is about one foot square and about one foot deep and
holds nine containers of milk. If more depth needed use two crates
cutting the bottom out of the upper one and wire them together before
lowering into the pit.
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