They use the same watts (you pay for watts). With the 220 VAC, you can run smaller wire to power the unit. Half the amps.
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13 years ago
They use the same watts (you pay for watts). With the 220 VAC, you can run smaller wire to power the unit. Half the amps.
If the OP doesn't already have a good platform sander- belt or disc- I'd probably go with NB on this one. Buy a good used sander-- and the best belts you can find.
'mexican milling machine, indeed- a good coarse belt can cut 2x mild steel angle iron in no time.
And I'm with Steve on not skimping on good tools- especially while you're in your 20s. Lots of good used tools out there if you shop around a bit. Get a beast that 40 years from now your grand kids will be drooling over.
Not because you'll wear it out- but because you can do things to and with it that you can't do with a cheap grinder or sander.
Jim
I've read some of your thread and from your comments I'm not sure if you are looking for a grinder or a sander. __________________
To me, a bench grinder is a motor with an abrasive wheel on each side of the shaft. The wheels are usually between 6" and 10" in diameter and 1/2" or
3/4" thick. They don't need a particularly powerful motor, all they have to do is spin the grinding wheels. Their primary purpose is to grind steel. Generally, they have one coarse grit wheel (36-40) and a finer one (80, maybe); very fine would be 120. It's called a "bench" grinder because it remains stationary and the work is brought to it as opposed to something like an angle grinder which is held by hand.In a woodshop their biggest use would be to sharpen/grind cutting tool edges and for that purpose one needs a *good* tool rest...one with which you can maintain a continuous attitude between what is being ground and the wheel. Most grinders have lousy tool rests, too small. One can buy (expensive) after market ones or rig their own.
If this is what you are looking for I would - and did - buy one of these...
My advice is this:
I currently have a nice Skil two wheel grinder, which I can not choke down as much as I have tried. It has a wire wheel on one end, and a grinding stone on the other.
I suppose that a guy could get by with ONE, but I'm watching for another, and will put a various combination of grits on there.
I currently have six angle grinders. Five are set up, one's a spare. When I go to do something, I can grab a grinder, stringer wire wheel, wire cup, paddle sander, or flat sander, and not have to stop and change things, starting with findin the parts to change it all over. I have done metal work for a long time, and I really like that convenience.
For bench grinders, I think that having two would provide the same convenience.
Steve
Heart surgery pending? Read up and prepare. Learn how to care for a friend.
Also, alum, brass, copper, and plastic. Try that on a stone wheel. I was a R&D machinist for 8 yrs in shops with everything. The only thing we used our wheel grinders for was touching up carbide lathe bits on a green wheel or cutting a chip breaker groove in a lathe bit so we wouldn't get long strands of SS coming off 20" flange plates. In fact, if you haven't got a green wheel, a belt will do in a pinch. Even hand sharpening a drill bit is easier on a belt sander. That Baldor was damn near the most used machine in the shop. I won't go into the lawsuit my buddy faced when he let a buddy use his commercial grade pedestal grinder and the wheel shattered and took out half the guy's face.
The OP and my detractor are certainly free to buy anything they like. I know what I'd buy, right after a drill press, and it sure wouldn't be a bench grinder.
nb
On 10/28/2010 7:03 AM Mel Knight spake thus:
First of all, think 120 and 240. Still dunno why folks use "220".
But to answer your question, there's effectively no difference, since it's such a small load. If you were talking about a 1-2 horse motor, then it would be better to run it on 240 instead of 120 (less I^2R losses at higher voltage). But for your little grinder motor? Don't sweat it.
I hear Craftsman isnt as good as it used to be but mine is about 30 years old. When I first got it I didnt have much room in my storage shed/ shop for a pedistal or any kind of permanent mount so I bolted it to a piece of plywood a little larger than the base. On the bottom of the plywood I bolted a 2 X 2 inch piece of square tubular steel. When I get ready to use it I clamp it in my vice via the piece of square tubing. Have since moved to better digs with 3 car garage for a shop but still use it the same way.
Jimmie
Jimmie
Nothing. 240V is useful if you need lots of power; that is, more than you can get out of a typical 15A or 20A 120V circuit.
nate
Like during start up. I had a 9.5CFM air compressor wired for 240. It also included instruction for rewiring the swith/motor for 120, which on one occasion had to do. Ran fine, but could barely get past a cold oil start-up. Always made it, eventually, but was iffy a couple times. Hadda turn on/off/on/off couple times to get it past start-up. Many 15A motors are like that. Run ok, but draw twice the max amperage to get started. That the reason for slow blow fuses.
nb
What these "fuses" you speak of? :)
seriously, they seem to have fallen out of favor at least everywhere I've lived around the early 70's. I know my parents' first house was built around 1972ish and it had a fuse box and I remember my dad complaining about it; he thought that it was "cheap" on the part of the builders that they didn't put in a breaker box.
nate
OK, OK, so I'm dating myself. Yes, I meant breakers. A senior moment. ;)
nb
What is "dual-phase 220" ?
Otherwise know as "split-phase 240".
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