Suggestions for a decent shop bench grinder

They use the same watts (you pay for watts). With the 220 VAC, you can run smaller wire to power the unit. Half the amps.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon
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If the OP doesn't already have a good platform sander- belt or disc- I'd probably go with NB on this one. Buy a good used sander-- and the best belts you can find.

'mexican milling machine, indeed- a good coarse belt can cut 2x mild steel angle iron in no time.

And I'm with Steve on not skimping on good tools- especially while you're in your 20s. Lots of good used tools out there if you shop around a bit. Get a beast that 40 years from now your grand kids will be drooling over.

Not because you'll wear it out- but because you can do things to and with it that you can't do with a cheap grinder or sander.

Jim

Reply to
Jim Elbrecht

I've read some of your thread and from your comments I'm not sure if you are looking for a grinder or a sander. __________________

To me, a bench grinder is a motor with an abrasive wheel on each side of the shaft. The wheels are usually between 6" and 10" in diameter and 1/2" or

3/4" thick. They don't need a particularly powerful motor, all they have to do is spin the grinding wheels. Their primary purpose is to grind steel. Generally, they have one coarse grit wheel (36-40) and a finer one (80, maybe); very fine would be 120. It's called a "bench" grinder because it remains stationary and the work is brought to it as opposed to something like an angle grinder which is held by hand.

In a woodshop their biggest use would be to sharpen/grind cutting tool edges and for that purpose one needs a *good* tool rest...one with which you can maintain a continuous attitude between what is being ground and the wheel. Most grinders have lousy tool rests, too small. One can buy (expensive) after market ones or rig their own.

If this is what you are looking for I would - and did - buy one of these...

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OTOH, if you are looking for a stationary sander - a tool to use with wood/plastic/soft metal - they often have a disk to which you afix sand paper and a belt or spindle; I've never seen a bench grinder with such. You can grind steel but that is not their purpose and doing so wears out the abrasive quickly. They look like these...
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If that's the sort of tool you are looking for then you want at least a 9" diameter disc. Bigger is better because you can use only 1/2 of the disc diameter but I'm not sure the increased size is worth the increased expense. A belt size of 6"x48" is reasonable for woodwork. You can use any grit on both disc and belt but they are a bit of a nuisance to change; IME, #80 is good for both as much finer will tend to burn - especially on the disc; especially if the RPM is in the 3500 range. _________________________

My advice is this:

  1. Decide on what you want to do with the tool and get one to suit that purpose.

  1. Don't lay out big bucks; a cheaper one will do just fine for years for a non-production shop and after using one for a while you will have an understanding of which features are important to you and which aren't. A combo sander like this works just fine:
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  1. Ultimately, you'll probably wind up with both.
Reply to
dadiOH

I currently have a nice Skil two wheel grinder, which I can not choke down as much as I have tried. It has a wire wheel on one end, and a grinding stone on the other.

I suppose that a guy could get by with ONE, but I'm watching for another, and will put a various combination of grits on there.

I currently have six angle grinders. Five are set up, one's a spare. When I go to do something, I can grab a grinder, stringer wire wheel, wire cup, paddle sander, or flat sander, and not have to stop and change things, starting with findin the parts to change it all over. I have done metal work for a long time, and I really like that convenience.

For bench grinders, I think that having two would provide the same convenience.

Steve

Heart surgery pending? Read up and prepare. Learn how to care for a friend.

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Reply to
Steve B

Also, alum, brass, copper, and plastic. Try that on a stone wheel. I was a R&D machinist for 8 yrs in shops with everything. The only thing we used our wheel grinders for was touching up carbide lathe bits on a green wheel or cutting a chip breaker groove in a lathe bit so we wouldn't get long strands of SS coming off 20" flange plates. In fact, if you haven't got a green wheel, a belt will do in a pinch. Even hand sharpening a drill bit is easier on a belt sander. That Baldor was damn near the most used machine in the shop. I won't go into the lawsuit my buddy faced when he let a buddy use his commercial grade pedestal grinder and the wheel shattered and took out half the guy's face.

The OP and my detractor are certainly free to buy anything they like. I know what I'd buy, right after a drill press, and it sure wouldn't be a bench grinder.

nb

Reply to
notbob

On 10/28/2010 7:03 AM Mel Knight spake thus:

First of all, think 120 and 240. Still dunno why folks use "220".

But to answer your question, there's effectively no difference, since it's such a small load. If you were talking about a 1-2 horse motor, then it would be better to run it on 240 instead of 120 (less I^2R losses at higher voltage). But for your little grinder motor? Don't sweat it.

Reply to
David Nebenzahl

I hear Craftsman isnt as good as it used to be but mine is about 30 years old. When I first got it I didnt have much room in my storage shed/ shop for a pedistal or any kind of permanent mount so I bolted it to a piece of plywood a little larger than the base. On the bottom of the plywood I bolted a 2 X 2 inch piece of square tubular steel. When I get ready to use it I clamp it in my vice via the piece of square tubing. Have since moved to better digs with 3 car garage for a shop but still use it the same way.

Jimmie

Jimmie

Reply to
JIMMIE

Nothing. 240V is useful if you need lots of power; that is, more than you can get out of a typical 15A or 20A 120V circuit.

nate

Reply to
Nate Nagel

Like during start up. I had a 9.5CFM air compressor wired for 240. It also included instruction for rewiring the swith/motor for 120, which on one occasion had to do. Ran fine, but could barely get past a cold oil start-up. Always made it, eventually, but was iffy a couple times. Hadda turn on/off/on/off couple times to get it past start-up. Many 15A motors are like that. Run ok, but draw twice the max amperage to get started. That the reason for slow blow fuses.

nb

Reply to
notbob

What these "fuses" you speak of? :)

seriously, they seem to have fallen out of favor at least everywhere I've lived around the early 70's. I know my parents' first house was built around 1972ish and it had a fuse box and I remember my dad complaining about it; he thought that it was "cheap" on the part of the builders that they didn't put in a breaker box.

nate

Reply to
Nate Nagel

OK, OK, so I'm dating myself. Yes, I meant breakers. A senior moment. ;)

nb

Reply to
notbob

What is "dual-phase 220" ?

Reply to
Steve Barker

Otherwise know as "split-phase 240".

Reply to
krw

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