Straw Bales as Concrete Void Form for Garage Floor (2025 Update)

Apr 06, 2004 Last reply: 8 months ago 10 Replies

Does anybody have any thoughts about using straw bales as a "void form" for a concrete garage pad?



Typical garage pads in my area are made on top of a gravel base that is deeper around the edge. This gives a one-piece concrete pad that is "thickened" around the edge for strength. These pads are pretty good, but they are only "thickened" around the edge and can still crack.



I want to dispense with the gravel completely, and use hay bales as a "void" form as follows:



Place bales in a series of solid 8ft x 8ft squares on the ground. Between each set of 8ft squares would be an 8 inch gap. If you can imagine, the concrete is poured over the while thing. The concrete would go down into the 8" gaps, giving an integral concrete "beam" every 8 feet. So instead of a "thickened" edge beam only, this pad would have a matrix of beams every 8 feet. Of course there would be rebar also.



The hay bales are basically there to "save money" on concrete (instead of pouring a 2 foot thick floor). I think this floor would be so strong that you could lift one corner and the whole thing would stay together (no cracking due to frost etc).



I am wondering about these hay bales though. I really don't care if they rot after the concrete sets. Does anybody see any problems? I would probably put plastic on top of the bales to seperate them from the concrete. Do you think I should also put plastic underneath them so they stay dry forever?



I think the cost would be less also. Typically, you need 2 feet of gravel under the floor to raise the grade of the garage floor. With the bales, I automatically get a 2 foot raise in the grade, as well as the extra strength from the beams.



Also, if you really want to go nuts, the beams can be made deeper (or the grade can be raised) with very little cost by stacking bales on top of each other. If you were to stack 2 bales (instead of one), the beams are deeper and it would not take much extra concrete.



I also like the fact that the beams (both in the middle and around the edge) are nice and "square". The "thickened edge" garage pad has a beam around the edge that is formed by the sloping gravel beneath it, giving a "not so pretty" beam.



Thanks.


I think that by the time you buy,transport,and lug around that much hay you would be better off using concrete with extra rebar. tonyg

---------- > Does anybody have any thoughts about using straw bales as a "void

I've seen it used for walls but not floors. If you want to save just backfill with old material.

- Wpg Man -

- Nehmo - Crushed stone of the type you use under concrete in Kansas City runs about US$25/yard^3 delivered. It's about the cheapest thing there is.

Wpg;

Straw-bale-formed waffle slabs have been used on a number straw bale homes,mostly in Quebec, so it is something that has been done. The intention was that the straw bales would serve as insulation, as an alternative to foamed plastic insulations.

There have also been forensic studies done on the above slabs (when they were about 10 years old) and as you would expect, the straw did show signs of decay so you should not have any expectations for the straw be there permanently.

Without doing any number-crunching, my wild-ass guesstimate would be that the slab between the ribs would need to be at least 200 mm thick, with reinforcement designed for 2-way action (ie Lots of engineering calc time + lots of time placing reinforcement)

I also think that the bottom line would be that an unreinforced thinner slab, (non-waffle) cast on compacted crushed stone fill would likely be more economical and just as serviceable.

Thanks for the reply, and thanks to all others that replied (even if you think I'm crazy, he he).

Your description of a "waffle" was just what I had imagined. If you were able to look up (from below) it would look like a "coffered" ceiling.

Yes, the biggest concern is the strength of the slab between the beams. Of course that would require an engineer. However, I can't imagine a problem with an 8x8 ft slab. I've seen lots of untensioned

8 foot spans (for example in small "man" tunnels under roadways etc).

As for gravel. A 24x24 garage pad with 2 feet of gravel requires approx $1000 of gravel. If you don't want to break your back tamping every 6" of the stuff, it's gonna cost another grand for the labour. The hay bales would cost almost nothing (less than 100 bux, or you could scrounge some for nothing). I think the labour is less with the bales (still a bit of work though). Even if the cost of gravel were "zero", I hate the results because any settling or frost just cracks the slab. I want that sucker so strong that you could flip it over in one piece.

Mark my words, I will start a revolution in the construction industry. Soon we will see office towers constructed with the "hay bale" method!

----SNIP

What ever happened to a good'ol back fill? I'm pouring another slab on block and throw anything solid in the hole. Old lollie poles,scrap block rocks ect.

How much rebar in the (20" deep?) beams and 8'x8' slab, if it supports a 4,000 pound car? How thick would the slab be?

Nick

I know you've had a load of replies, but I have to agree that incorporating something that decays under concrete is a really bad idea! Generally when pouring concrete you try to remove any organic matter, not add it!

To be honest i am not sure what you are trying to construct, but how about something that doesn't degrade like polystyrene (plus don't forget some mesh reinforecement!

Marc

replying to Wpg Man, Don wrote: I think the straw is amazing. My dad used to use bales of straw to dummy up porches for a concrete pour. Long as it has lots of rebar in it he said it was good to go.

I'm seeing these all over now, and they are calling them Wpg-slabs. Seriously, though, as a structural engineer, I wanted to flesh this out, as it is a primary return on google. These are called waffle slabs, and they have been used for this application all along. They usually use something like a plastic bucket as a form

formatting link
Floatation is an issue with both the form voids and your hay. Your settlement is much higher with the waffle voids made of "hay" (straw) than if they were soil, but you design the slab to span the void. Using hay in scenarios like this is somewhat common, but not for careful formwork as you describe. The main reason is that hay has zero lateral pressure, so you can temporarily fill a void (it will decay) without a temporary condition with substantial earth retention pressures when casting structural concrete slabs, where it is a big no-no to leave that as a void. I was here looking for what vermicide to add.

Join the Discussion

Have something to add? Share your thoughts — no account required.

Didn't find your answer?

Ask the community — no account required