I'm putting stone on the floor <done , and it looks good> and up the wall
behind and on the left of my wood burning stove . The floor is done , and in
a week or so I'll move on to the wall . My question is whether I need to
leave a small space between the stone and the sheetrock or to let the stone
touch the wall .
I had originally planned to leave "ducts" behind the stone for convective
circulation . I have decided that the return doesn't merit the extra work
since we'll have a big ceiling fan in the room to keep heat from stagnating
at the ceiling . The rocks are all free stuff from our land , and I've got
them graded by thickness from 4" down to around 2" . Thicker stones will be
used lower down . Since I have leftover materials from the shower project ,
I'm using a mix of 5 masonry mix <sanded> 1 portland , 3 sand , and 1 gray
thinset mortar . I mix it up dry as a premix and make small batches as I can
use them before it sets . This gives a very sticky mud when mixed on the dry
side that worked very well on the floor . I expect it will do the same on
the wall . Corrugated brick ties will be used at about 10-15 inch intervals
to make sure the wall remains a wall and not a pile of rocks and mud on the
floor <my brother made that mistake when he laid up a fireplace surround of
volcano rocks many years ago ...> .
On Tuesday, August 26, 2014 8:22:41 AM UTC-4, Terry Coombs wrote:
When I had a decorative stone surround put around my fireplace, they attach
ed wire lath to the drywall, then the mud and stone went on that. Mine was
decorative though, so only about 1" thick. Using real stone, that's going
to weigh a whole lot more and IDK what the weight implications are. But I
don't see why you'd want a space between the stone and drywall in any case
This is going to be both decorative and a thermal storage mass . I asked
about the space because I've seen a dead space behind "brick veneer" in
general construction . I tend to think I don't want any space , but figgered
I'd check with the "experts" here too . This floor is looking better and
better , the rocks here in Stone County Ar have a fairly high iron content ,
and the reddish colors really pop in contrast to the gray of the mortar . I
need to get some muriatic to finish cleaning mortat haze , vinegar works but
not as well as I had hoped .
About the weight issue , this wall is directly over one of the main
support beams . I'll probably be adding extra crossblocking between the
joists to be sure I don't have any sag - though if this is a solid mass when
finished , I'm not so sure extra blocking is needed .
I think it depends on the clearance ratings of your woodstove. If you have
the rated distance between the woodstove and the stone wall, you can do it
however you want, it's just decorative. If the stone encroaches into the
rated clearance space, I believe code requires the gap behind the
stonework. I would assume this is due to conduction, heat traveling through
the stone to the combustible wall behind. The gap acts as a thermal break.
Personally, I always thought the gap would collect bugs, dust, spider webs,
and other debris that would combust easily. It seems counterintuitive to
me, but I guess the "experts" test these kinds of things for fire safety.
I wouldn't use sheetrock behind the stonework though. It would be better to
install something like durock or hardibacker that is made for tile work.
Mortar could soften the paper on the drywall and allow it all to separate
(cracks, crumbling, etc.).
Only as a matter of protocol, and not because you need to, I'd use
fireplace high temp mortar. Why not? small amount.
We have high iron content here, too. Here's a 'heads up' be really, really
sure you want that gray mortar look before you do it. When I first did it,
I thought nice contrast, then slowly started to hate it. After using
sakrete color, brown, from home depot; the mortar became 'similar' in
color to the stones, which left the stones dominating, not the mortar when
I looked at it. Now when I look, I see the stones. Seriously, be really,
really sure you want that gray mortar dominating over the look of your
My wife and I really like the look of the floor , with the contrasting
colors . The wall will have smaller mortar joints , I won't be filling the
joints smooth/flush like the floor . This type of stonework is very common
here , probably due mostly to the easy availability of rocks - there's a
reason they called it "Stone County" ... our house will use the same type of
stone facade up to the bottom of the windows , then white oak split shakes
above to the eaves . I'll be using as much native material as possible ,
just like they did in the "Old Days" . Interior finish is planned to be
"rustic" , also incorporating native materials as much as possible .
I may have to build a bandsaw mill to get the lumber I want ... We've
got nearly 12 acres of trees , predominantly whit and red oaks . Can you say
"Solid Oak Cabinets" ? I knew you could ...
Welllllll ... Neither , just sayin' . We bought this land in '01 I think it
was , with the intent of retiring here . What I didn't know then was that
retirin' is more work than workin' ! The big difference is that this is all
stuff I want to do , so it's not really work . Like this afternoon , I just
made a couple of lead weights to replace the lost ones for a triple beam
scale I was given . I now know that a gallon ziplock bag of frozen
blackberries weighs almost exactly 4.5 lbs . Just right to make a gallon of
medium-bodied wine <grin> . Guess where I picked the berries <bigger grin> ?
And it looks like we'll get a bumper crop of muscadines this year too ...
I just started a batch of muscadine wine , from berries my neighbor picked
last fall . He gave me a couple of 1 gallon freezer baggies last winter
because he needed more room for venison ... and I ended up with some of that
too because of lack of freezer space .
I sure love living out here , got some of the best neighbors I've ever had
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