I don't know the correct names for speaker bits - but if the cone has been
over extended to the flexible webbing that supports the cone around the
speech coil has torn, there could be all kinds of crap settled in the gap
between the magnet poles.
A tiny minority refurbish their own speakers, a not much bigger minority
take them to specialist rebuilders - either way is unlikely to be cheaper
than buying new ones.
William Sommerwerck wrote: "You presumably have conventional dynamic speake
rs. It's unlikely any of them
could stand up to current models in terms of sound quality. (There are exce
A disturbing trend(consumer at least) is toward smaller and smaller mains a
ccompanied by or requiring a separate subwoofer. Or taller but narrower fl
oor standing mains. I have a pair of dB Plus with 10" woofers and 1" dome
tweeters from 1990 that still sound good - at least to me and most company
I invite over - and I don't want to go the separate sub route when replacem
ent time comes. Simple physics tells me that a floor standing model with
only 6" woofers isn't going to touch those old Canucks for bottom end!
As for the o.p.: If the only damage is rotted surrounds, there are online r
esources for modern rubber replacements to recone those attic residents.
Depends. Were these $500+/each audiopile speakers when new? If so, it
might be worth it. Did they come as a set with a $150 stereo system?
Maybe not worth it. In between... you have to decide.
You can get replacement drivers in various sizes and power handling
levels. You can probably get something "close"; whether that's good
enough for you is up to your ears.
The voice coil is more likely to be open. Sometimes you get lucky and
it's something easy, like the wire to the connectors/terminals on the
back panel has broken, or a push-on connector has fallen off.
For higher-end ($$$) speakers, if you can't get exact replacements, you
can probably get parts that have been tested to work well in that
particular model. For cheap speakers, you try it and see.
Yes. You can see if the inductors (coils) are open circuit, and you
can check the capacitors for open or short circuits. You most likely
will need to unsolder at least one end of each component to make the
It might be faster to note how the wires go, disconnect the crossovers,
and apply audio to each speaker driver directly. If you get sound, then
put the crossover back in line and run audio through it. If the sound
goes away or becomes hideously bad, then the crossover network is
A real newsreader will allow you to set the Followup-To: header as you
desire. (Outhouse Depressed is not a real newsreader.)
If this was a UK loft then you've increased the probability of adding
bits of iron-corrossion product , now trapped by the magnet , in the VC
gap , to give that classic scratchy sound, as well as the original failure
If you're blowing out speakers with that regularity I expect a sever miss
math in equipment. The second would be a recommendation to have your
hearing check as you may have damaged/serious loss of hearing.
All my kids were big into music. I made sure they wore ear protection at
concerts and especially when they were performing. Unlike me (too many
years near jet engines) they can still hear a pin drop.
Not only high power blows speakers. El Cheapo amps can blow speakers
much easier than good amps. Why? Cheap amps have too much garbage in
the output signal. My kids are in music since toddlers. Piano, sax,
flute, drum, guitars. I don't have to tell, they wear ear plugs when
they jam. Me? I am lower brass lifer since high school days. Still
active with local concert band.
On Wed, 21 May 2014 19:24:27 -0400, "Robert Green"
I kept all my college texts. I even occasionally lend them out. I keep
much of my pleasure reading as well.
If you can get or make parts.
Yes but it is rare.
Yes, they can. They are just capacitors and inductors, separate them and
test the components themselves, capacitors dying is by far the most
frequent failure mode. Replacement parts may be hard to get.
On Wed, 21 May 2014 10:49:50 -0400, "Robert Green"
Depends on the speaker and what's blown. If it's just the "surrounds"
that have gone on a decent quality speaker it is well worth fixing
them. A lot of the speakers from the sixties and seventies are every
bit as good as the crap you buy today - even the "high end" chinese
Yes, they can go bad. Test right at the speaker terminals - inside the
box.. If the speaker itself is good, cheap chinese crossovers are
almost litterally "a dime a dozen" on Flea Bay. Relatively good ones
are not terribly expensive either.
I have a foggy memory of rewinding a tweeter decades ago. I determined
the gauge, then checked the resistance of a good tweeter to find out how
many feet it had.
As has been said, I'd check each speaker element. A battery would work,
but I'd check resistance with a multimeter. If it looked good, I'd clip
the leads on and see what happened when I pushed the cone.
Ten years ago, I thought something was wrong with my CD player or my
amp. Then I discovered that the foam surrounds on 6 woofers and 4
midranges were rotting. I found a place that sold repair kits.
In the last few years, I've been thinking of complaining to the FCC that
lots of FM stations are broadcasting distortion. Then I discovered that
my electrolytic crossover capacitors were bad. Some estimate that
electrolytics last 5 years on the shelf. Mine were 30 years old. A
month ago I replaced 18.
The ones I took out were 10% precision electrolytics. I used regular
nonpolar electrolytics because they were cheap and easy to find. The
ideal is metal film because they're precise and last indefinitely. Even
my crummy replacement capacitors made voices clearer and music better.
Those are good points. It's not too bad up there, but there is a good
possibility that there's heat or aging damage and replacing a bad tweeter or
midrange would just be followed up by the failure of a woofer after the
repaired speaker has been run for a while.
Thanks for your input!
resources for modern rubber >replacements to recone those attic residents.
Haven't even cracked one open yet - just doing my "survey" on my options
before I get to that stage and hopefully will know what to look for. Some
speakers I rescued from friends, some died at the hands of a Sony receiver
that had a motorized volume control that occasionally went crazy and turned
itself to maximum volume, others just sound scratchy, etc.
There's no common cause of death for all of them and most of the attic
denizens are bookshelf speakers, hence their employment as bookshelf
supports. I suspect that once I inspect them, most of them will be fed to
the curbside monster but the larger more expensive ones that weren't stored
in the attic may be worthy of repair.
Thanks for your input!
Ironically now that I am cleaning up the attic I realize I never routed the
AV net there and I have nothing to listen to as I clean up. I'm hoping that
enough of the damaged can be saved to add whole house audio to the attic and
more of the basement (there's one TV/speaker setup by the sink area but
I previously said "blown" speakers but "non-functioning" or "bad sounding"
would have been more accurate and less likely to result in accusations of
murdering helpless speakers. (-:
What do you see?
Since I have so many I'll probably have to just pick a model and go from
there. The Technics with the 15" woofer seems to woof OK but the tweeter
and midrange seem inert. I have not yet jacked them out of their case yet
because it's in an awkward place and because I just noticed the problem the
other day. I think I need to round up all the ones worth saving to try to
figure out what's what.
All of the above but the scope's a pretty cheesy penscope not good for much.
I want to be able to check the crossover networks and haven't come across
much help in that area on the web. I have a DVM that has a capacitance
checker built-in, but I recall from previous threads about the flood of bad
caps a few years back, that the DVM can't really check out all the possible
flaws in a bad cap.
I know the basics. I just need to find out more about crossover network
troubleshooting and how to determine what kind of replacements I should use
for speakers/tweeters/woofers that don't have and characteristics marked on
them. I'm busy reading up on the design of cross-over network so I can
better understand their function in the world of the Dead Speakers.
Thanks for your input, Dave.
I've had capacitance checkers in the past, but they went bad. A
crossover capacitor may be beyond the range of a checker, anyway.
Big ones can be checked by the time constant using a couple of DMMs and
a calculator. (I used three DMMs, two to determine the voltage and
resistance of the third, on it's highest resistance range.) I found out
that bad nonpolar electrolytics give whacky results.
As I recall, the other thing to check is the capacitor's resistance.
I'd skip that.
It's usually electrolytic capacitors, not coils or resistors, that go
bad. I have a Radio Shack DMM from 1979. I pull it off the shelf when
I need to check audio voltages up to 20kHz; most won't do that. A scope
can also show you where you're losing the signal, but if one side of the
audio circuit is grounded, you have to be careful where you clip the
I didn't bother to check with signals. Checking a few capacitors with
time constants made a believer of me; so I replaced them all. I needed
a chisel to get the circuit boards unglued from the cabinets and to get
the capacitors unglued from the boards. Their values were marked.
It's a fairly high humidity Washington DC attic.
I didn't know that ferrous debris in the VC gap was an issue. I thought the
scratchy sound came from the voice coil detaching from the paper/plastic
Thanks for your input!
The surround is supposed to keep the cone (and voice coil) centered. I
think scratching was how I realized something was wrong with my
surrounds. When I glued in a new surround, I'd let the glue set, then
move the cone to be sure it didn't scratch. Of ten speakers, I think I
had to reset one surround. I'm glad I caught it while the glue was soft.
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