What's the "best" way of putting away a Snowblower for the off-season ?
I always put in some of that Stab-Oil, and pull the starter rope a few
times. Don't necessarily re-start it, but imagine ther pulling gets the
now treated gas into the Carb.
Should I actually run it ?
If so, should I shut it off by closing the valve to the gas tank, and
just letting it run out of fuel ?
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
I run mine dry.
Once left it with gas with Sta-bil but following season it would not start.
Two possible problems, gas evaporates from carburetor gumming it up or
ethanol containing gas attacks seals.
I've never had a problem starting next season if I have run dry.
Great if you have a valve to shut off. Do that and run dry.
On Monday, April 11, 2016 at 8:37:57 AM UTC-4, Bob wrote:
There's varying opinions on this, so I'll just let you know what I do.
I use Sta-Bil in my gas cans all year, so treated gas is always in my engines.
I put my snowblower up on a dolly and roll it into the back corner of
my garage. The back end is propped up so it's not resting on the tires.
About once a month I roll it, dolly and all, out into the driveway, start
it and let it warm up to operating temperature. I run the auger and the
drive wheels a little bit to keep them freed up. Once it cools down, back
into the corner it goes.
I look at it this way: Some winters, I could easily go a few weeks (or more)
and never need to use it. If it can sit for a few weeks without being started
in the winter, then it can sit for a month or so without being started in
the off season. I've been doing this for the 6 years that I've owned my
current snow blower and it has never failed to start on one pull.
By the way, I do the same thing with my lawn mower in the winter. They share the same off-season, back corner parking spot . During the appropriate season,
they are a little more out in the open for ease of access.
One tip: Don't run the snowblower in a dusty environment. They don't have
Drain gas, run it dry, change the oil, and spark plug. Put some WD-40 or
oil inside the cylinder before installing new spark plug and pull the
starter to move the piston up and down a few times to distribute the
Also, clean/replace the air filter, check all nuts for tightness, spray
cold weather lube into cables, inspect moving parts for damage-
especially impeller. Clean then wipe down metal parts with oil/WD-40.
Come December, pour some fresh gas in there and you're good to go with
no fuss and a 1-pull start;-)
Some of the greatest minds in the world are right here in America.
Sadly, they have gone into hiding until the 'War On Thinking” is over.
While I was born/raised "up north", I've lived in the deep south for 40+
years now (and have in fact become an adoptive redneck).
It's been that long since I owned a snow blower- so my maintenance check
list was drawn from gladly-faded memory. A little quick research
indicated that apparently SBs don't have air filters- so one less step
to follow...and sorry for the bad into...
That's pretty much the way I service all my small engines- lawnmower,
pressure washer, chain saw, etc., though.
You can only judge people upon that which they show you. Nine times out
of 10, it’s their ass.
Most instruction books for the small engines say about the same thing. I
don't live where I need a snow blower, but do have a garden tiller that gets
used about 2 or 3 times in the spring of the year. At the last usage I let
it run empty of gas. Change the oil. Then put a table spoon or so of gas in
the spark plug hole.
Been doing this for about 10 years and fill with fresh gas in the spring.
Always starts with a pull or two.
I do use the ethanol free gas in the small engines. The chain saws and leaf
blowers with the 2 cycle engines are always cut off with the switch or the
choke . I never cut the gas off of them or let them run empty if I can help
While probably not needed I do put the stabil stuff in all the gas all year
for all the engines. I put the required ammount in the 5 gallon cans before
I go to the service stations to fill them up just out of habit.
I don't see any possible advantage to adding gasoline to the
engine cylinder before long-term storage. It seems totally
wrong, to me. The gasoline will tend to contaminate your fresh
oil-change, prior to evaporating and perhaps leaving other
If you meant that you add a tiny amount of gas to the cylinder
for starting - after a long storage ... that's different.
On Monday, April 11, 2016 at 1:16:14 PM UTC-4, email@example.com wrote:
I've never heard of putting gas into the cylinder either.
You can put a small amount of oil in there, which presumably helps
prevent any rusting. With marine engines, you use a fogging oil
that you spray into the carb for a few seconds prior to shutting
it down. That said, I don't put anything into my small engines
and haven't had any problems.
I agree with most of this, but you dont need to replace the spark plug
every year on something that is only used for a few hours every year.
The average person probably only puts about 10 hours or less of use on a
snowblower each winter. And even less than that on a garden tiller. I'd
inspect the spark plug, but you should only need to replace it after 4
ir 5 winters. Even lawn mowers, which get more hours of use per year,
dont need a new spark plug that often.
I would NOT spray WD-40 in the cylinder. Use motor oil ONLY. WD-40 is
just kerosene with some additives and it will evaporate in a very short
time, AFTER it washes away all the oil on the cylider walls and piston
rings. Just put in a few squirts of motor oil, spin the engine so the
piston goes up and down a couple times and replace the plug. That's it.
(Of course this is after running it out of gas).
On 4/11/16 2:27 PM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
I see your point re: the WD-40. I wonder though if motor oil in the
cylinder will eventually succumb to gravity, drain off the walls,
piston, et. al., and pool in the lowest point. What about other sprays
like Breakfree CLP, etc. I wonder if they'd cling better.
On the plugs, I think it's more difficult than it seems to get all the
combustion residue out without damaging/wearing the thing, especially if
the engine has been running rich. Some mfrs recommend against using
those grit-spraying plug cleaning machines as stuff can get
wedged/lodged up inside and gets blown into the cylinder.
The time-honored wire brush method has its detractors too, especially if
you're using an old brush with a bent or nicked bristle being more
likely to break off and remain in there too.
Hell, I'm a big hitter and I'd just pop for the $2.99 and stick a new
one in there!
The lion may be King of the Jungle, but airdrop him into Antarctica and
he’s just a penguin’s bitch.
I am with you. For just a couple of bucks you can get a new one every 3 to
5 years. May not even need it. I have a weed eater that never has had the
plug changed in about 10 years. I probably run it for about 10 to 20
minuits every week or so during the mowing season. I usually pull it one
time and it sputters, then take it to half choke and pull and it starts.
I don't know why,but for some reason I change the mower plugs every year.
It usually runs 2 hours each time I mow. I guess I got in the habit when I
had a POS John Deere mower and bought the service kit every year that had
plugs, oil and filters in it. Got rid of it a couple of years back due to
the transmission going out. Found out that model was only good for a couple
of years if you had any hills or pulled very much.
You are overthinking it. Engine oil has been used for devades to
preserve engines in storage. You can use heavier oil if you like but
it makes it harder to start the engine when you take it out of
storage. As for the plugs, NO sand blasting!! It used to be a normal
way of cleaning plugs - back when plugs were expensive and were easily
fouled with lead. Today a quick
bake" with a torch will remove duel and oil fouling - if a plug needs
more than that, put in a new one.
Wasn't it that plugs only went about 10 to 15 thousand miles, now the cars
get around 100 thousand or more out of a set of plugs ?
About the same with oil. Maybe a thousand or two miles between oil changes,
now 5 to 8 thousand is the normal, more with the synthetic oils.
If your snow blower is two stroke (gas oil
mix) might not want to run it dry. I did
run my ETQ generator dry, and now it's got a
nasty piston rod knock, and doesn't start
very well. Manual for the ETQ says to stop
it with the switch, not run it dry.
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