Well, if the bottom layer of snow on the roof has fused into ice, from
the odd hour of sunlight, compression, and thermal cycling, that will
provide a layer of protection. Of course a layer of ice or near-ice on
your roof causes other things to worry about.
Finally broke down and bought a roof rake this year, for that one
problem stretch and inside corner on the lee side of the roof that loves
to form a snow cornice, and load the gutter up with several hundred
pounds of ice. It helps, as long as I stay after it with each fresh
snowfall. But I still wanna beat on whoever owned this place when
addition was put on, for the stupid way they tied the roofs together,
creating little dead pockets where the swirling air packs the snow into
a fine foundation for the snow cornice. It resulted in previous owner
having to replace the kitchen window, from where the stupid design and
metal-wrapped gutter boards led melt water across soffit and into wall
around window. I'll never wrap a gutter board- use rot-resistant wood,
or fake wood. I had to peel the wrap down on the backside, and form a
drain point for the water, to keep same problem from happening again.
I'm sure that end of the gutter board is completely rotted in there,
because there is a gap above the wrap and back of gutter, below the drip
edge, such that water is forced in there when gutter are overflowing or
full of half-melted snow/ice. I'll probably leave it for next owner to
fix, because once you open up something like that, where do you stop?
Is your snow heavy? Mine is.I doubt whether much snow will be blown off
the roof unless there are constant high wind speeds.
Worse yet is that we have a travel restriction in effect. All
non-emergency travel is prohibited.
My power went out earlier, but I have a generator running but not much
I was going to go get some in my 4x4 truck but I can't now with the
Damn those anti-siphon gas tanks.
We had 50" of snow within 4 days. This was a couple of weeks ago. It
probably won't blow off roof. This time, you're getting hammered with
snow. We're expecting only a few inches but monster winds. Power is
still on. House generator will supply power for about two days but
I'm worried about structural damage. Good luck.
On Fri, 26 Feb 2010 01:11:58 GMT, LiberalsNemesis@USA. (Jack) wrote:
Yeah, I'm in Maryland too. Baltimore. I had a wedding to go to, two
weeks ago Wednesday. The roads were bad until we got 20 miles south
of DC, but after that it was fine.
My friend had a Rav 4. I don't know what that is. Today my friend
says it has unintended acceleration, but only a little. !!!!
I don't know. He did all the driving, 10 or 11 hours each way.
And when we got to Myrtle Beach S. Car., it snowed there too. :(
Loose it, or it becomes more difficult? That would be a shame if I
couldn't steer or brake my car because I ran out of gasoline. Are there
any vehicles like that?
When I taught my niece to drive, in a large empty parking lot, at about
35mph I told her I was turning off the engine. Then I told her to make
a left hand turn. She's a tiny little thing but she struggled and it
did turn. As far as the brakes, if it's vacuum assisted you still have
normal braking until you pump it too many times and runs out of the
vacuum. Don't pump them, apply pressure until you stop.
I told her that if her engine ever dies for whatever reason, that will
be the result, so be ready for it.
You loose the ASSIST. Means braking needs both feet and steering
needs some muscle. At speed the steering is not much of an issue,
while at low speeds it can be very difficult. Braking the
Under hard acceleration, you may lack the vacuum assist as well.
Anyone who has driven a car with vacuum wipers knows what happens when
you are flooring the gas pedal. The wipers slow dramatically or stop.
Vacuum assisted brakes have that large vacuum canister with a check
valve. A second or so idling and it has enough vacuum to work, and a
check valve so it works if your throttle is to the floor, or your engine
dies, it still has enough vacuum for a couple pumps. Try it with your
car in the driveway. Put it in park, turn off the engine, then pump the
brakes. You should get 1 to 3 good pumps before you feel in the pedal
that the vacuum assist is not working anymore.
On Mar 3, 3:32 am, email@example.com wrote:
And what you are missing (seems to be a habit) is that there is a
_vacuum canister accumulator_ that permits full brake assist under all
conditions (if the engine was running at all) for a couple of
'pumps'. Try it yourself. While diving shut off engine and step on
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.