The previous owner did a very poor job on some plumbing in my
It is all copper with ball valves.
The valves have green corrosion and some are starting to leak from the
I will need to replace the valves.
Are ball valves or gate valves a better choice for water shutoffs?
Agree w/ Nate -- as long as the valves themselves weren't damaged,
you're only problem appears to be to re-sweat a couple joints.
Make sure you clean things up well, use proper flux for the solder
chosen and should be good to go. OBTW, be sure to use an adequate
heat source so that can heat the fitting quickly and be done rather
than taking a long time. This is a common cause of poor joints.
The valves are covered in green corrosion. I am not 100% sure where
the leaks are coming from.
I am afraid to mess with them, as I don't want a flood.
These have been bad for 10 years.
I am going to buy valves and add new ones for new runs.
I am also going to reroute some pipes that cover windows, mounted to
stairs and such.
It is a mess.
So should I get ball or gate valves? Or I guess it does not matter
As far as I know, ball valves are less prone to failure with repeated
use than gate valves and certainly easier to operate.
See here: http://www.plbg.com/forum/read.php?1,159391,159391
Not being a professional plumber, when I've replaced old shutoffs with
ball valves - or added shutoffs where they didn't exist - I sweated
the valves onto short lengths of copper on the bench and then used
repair fittings to insert the whole thing into the plumbing run. I
just feel more confident sweating the small fittings in tight places
than I do trying to sweat in a "big" valve.
For the new ones, I'd go w/ ball valves.
You'll have to cut the water to do the work anyway so don't see the
issue particularly other than time. I suppose for only a couple I'd
probably end up just going w/ new material simply to avoid the time
required to clean up the old ones during the job and through the old
ones into the spares bin for later reuse (of course, I've got stuff
there that goes back to the 30's that's not found a use for yet, but
that's another story... :) )
Ball. Gate valves have too many failure modes. Crud in the seat, it
won't close. Steam breaks it won't open (and sometimes won't close
either). Stem can corrode with no way to inspect.
If they're leaking from the sweat joint it's a bad solder job or
you're getting loading on the joint that's cracking it.
On Mon, 29 Dec 2008 13:15:26 -0800 (PST), " firstname.lastname@example.org"
What all this talk about mapp gas? Isn't that for commercial work?
I've been plumbing with a regular propane torch to sweat brass valves,
no leaks. Wrap the valve with a wet rag to help prevent heat damage.
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