Oh, I was envisioning an entire tread at the top. If you insist on carpeting
these steps, I'd carpet to the top of the top riser and paint the bull-nose to
match the carpeting. You could even stop the carpeting at the back of the top
full step and paint the top riser and bull-nose to match the wall, since it's
continuous. I see you've already started. ;-)
re: "Yes, there is a door and it leads into the kitchen floor and is
covered (with linoleum), and the covering stops in the middle of the
door ( w/bull-nose)."
No, it doesn't. It stops well beyond the door, not in the middle of
it. In addition, the covering isn't "w/bull-nose" as implied in your
No wonder I was confused.
What you have is very close to what I imagined, but I wonder why the
linoleum (vinyl?) installer stopped the flooring where (s)he did and
didn't carry it to the edge of the step and use something like this:
I guess you *could* pull up that transition strip, carpet up to the
linoleum and put a new transition strip over the seam. I don't think
I'd like the look of that any better than I like the look of what you
have now, but the view as you look into the door of "carpet on the
riser then a wooden bull nose then a metal transition strip then
linoleum" isn't going to look all the great either.
IMO, the problem all started with the installation of the kitchen
Given how the stairs were constructed, the installer broke it at the
appropriate place. Having an actual tread on the upper floor level is
not the usual way of building basement stairs. Usually, the 'top step'
front edge is the threshold of the door, more or less in line with the
door slab. Cut away the sole plate, hang the door, and put another piece
of underlayment to extend the surface out to the edge. A good carpenter
cuts that hunk of underlayment near the door with a tongue rather than
using a little filler piece, so as to keep the threshold nice and solid
and level. Apply vinyl, and add a metal transition strip that serves as
the edge of top step. With that scenario, the vinyl as-laid would have
worked, or nearly so.
OK, so you're saying the floor/'top step' was installed incorrectly -
or at least not in the "usual" way.
Usually, the 'top step' front edge is the threshold of the door, more
or less in line with the door slab.
Not in my house. I have a landing at the top of the basement stairs.
Coming up the stairs you make a right and step up into the kitchen,
entering through the garage you walk straight across the landing and
step up into the kitchen.
With the door to the kitchen closed, I can see a thin strip of the
kitchen vinyl and then the metal overhang transition strip.
Given that, why do you say "the (vinyl) installer broke it at the
If I were installing the vinyl or carpet or any other finish material,
I'd have extended it to the edge and covered the bull nose with metal
overhang transition strip like I posted earlier. That's how it is in
my house - except that I don't have bull nose. I have "unfinished"
Think about how you negotiate a top step. Don't you approach the step
and extend a portion of your foot out into space?
I can't access tinypic at work, but if I recall the picture correctly,
that would mean that the current transition strip would end up
somewhere in the middle of your foot.
With a wrap-around transition strip like I suggested, the top of the
step/transition would be at the ball of foot where it belongs, and
also more flush with the flooring than the strip currently used.
As installed now, coming up the stairs would just be just as weird.
Again, just my opinion.
Look very good. Did you use the carpet guy who wanted to carpet the
"top step"? Did you talk him out of it?
I have a question:
In your post of Sept 6 you said:
"With the bull-nose and paint removed, can someone tell what kind of
wood it is..." and included this picture:
It doesn't look to me like the bull-nose has been removed. It's still
there as far as I can tell.
In your post of Aug 29 you said:
"the kitchen floor ... is covered (with linoleum), and the covering
stops in the middle of the
door ( w/bull-nose)" and included this picture:
The linoleum is not "w/bull-nose", the end of the kitchen floor is.
Don't take this the wrong way, but do you know what a bull-nose is?
Why did you say it was "removed" in your post of Sept 6?
it wasn't bull-nose, it was just a transition strip- he just didn't know
the right word. No Biggie. I like the nice clean look of no transition
strip, but I hope OP sealed the crack with something, otherwise at some
point that crack is gonna open up, and the vinyl will start to curl. I
think OP did good- that soft wood will show scuffs a lot quicker than
hardwood would (say that fast three times), but it will be easy to touch
up, and the casual observer will think it is oak. If it ever gets too
nasty looking, he can figure out how to replace it with hardwood, or
find something metal to cover it with, but for light duty, he should get
several years out of it with no problem.
re: "it wasn't bull-nose, it was just a transition strip- he just
didn't know the right word."
I agree. The thing is, that was pointed out to him at least twice in
this thread - which makes me wonder why he keeps calling it a bull-
Nice job! If the wood itself weas well it is white oak. If it doesn't, I
think it''s ash. That's ok, it's not gong to be hard to replace if so and
should last well enough for quite a bit.
I see you narrow in on where the framing above doesn't quite meet at one
corner. You can fill that with wood putty then kinda sculpt it to match
above wood pattern fairly well then paint white. You'll need a few
applications as it shrinks a bit as it dries and that's a fairly deep cleft
of about an inch I'd say back and maybe 1/4 top to bottom. It actually
looks ok as it is but since you narrowed in on it, thats how I'd fix it if I
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