I don't believe in locking my car. I've had it broken into twice in all the
years of driving and total losses are about $2 for a can of oil and
windshield spray. Cars that were parked near me were all locked. they had
broken windows, scratched paint, slashed convertible top, etc. With mine,
they open the door, look around, find nothing and move on.
Chuckle- BTDT myself. I put a restraint cable on the 2-way, and only leave
cheap flashlights/tools/etc in the car. Cheaper than replacing busted glass
or slap-hammered hatch lock, both of which I have had to do. The rules at
work say to lock the cars, even when parking 'inside the perimeter', but I
ok, so you buy them and pay HD or lowes to key them, then 2 months later you
pay to have them keyed again. Why not buy them, give the contractor
access to one door (keeping the keys) and pay only one time to have them
keyed when the project is finished.
BTW, personally I agree, I wouldn't put Kwikset on my house, I have Schlage.
Speaking as a locksmith as well, ignoring the deadbolts for this
discussion, discussing knobs only, given my druthers, between
the Schlage and a KW TITAN, I will recomend the Titan on a house.
Between a Schlage knob and the regular KW knob, its a toss up
which can be gotten into faster if push really comes to shove.
You could buy the best equipment from a 'smith and ask about other security
add-ons like strike plate, reinforcement brackets around the dead bolt,
deep-set bolt and latch receivers with 3" screws. Also, ask the builder to
reinforce the jamb so that the 3" screws are biting into wood and not just
poking into space!
"he probably gave ya good advice.
the (pre-drilled) holes and strikes will probably need to be
adjusted ! "
I was thinking along those lines too. I doubt it's as easy as using a
screw driver, as some have suggested. For example, are the locations
for the strike plates mortised out? If you don;t have the proper tools
or skills and screw this up, it can be a lot more work to do correct
than to do right the first time.
Also, some people claim that the same model locks sold by locksmiths
are of a better grade than those sold at the big stores. Based on my
experience, I don't believe it. I have Kwikset's on my front doors. I
would gladly replace them with a costlier and better lock, but only
Kwikset's will fit. I bought Kwikset's from a locksmith that appeared
identical to the ones sold at Lowes and HD. I had bought locks at
Lowes, but had to keep taking them back. One was all scuffed up,
another had a trim piece that obviously had not even been plated
The Locksmith assured me that while his looked the same and had the
same model #'s, that the ones they sell to locksmiths are in fact
higher quality. So, I paid a premium price. And what I got is the
same junk that within 2 years is already seriously tarnished. And the
location they are in is well protected by a huge porch overhang. I
would avoid Kwikset, if possible, at least for any lock that you want
to look good.
There are 3 grades of locks..
Houses use grade 3. SOME 'house grade locks' can/will say 'equal
to a grade 2' on the box.. however, they are at best IMO, a
slightly better grade of grade 3.
a grade 2 is a semi commercial. it takes more force to 'break' a
2 than a 3.
a grade 1 is a commercial. designed for a LOT of every day
use..for a long time.
I have seen some grade 1 that are over 40 years old, used in a
school door, and there is nothing at all wrong with them after
all these years. Some need an occasional repinning, but that is
I just installed a grade 2 on a room a little bit earlier-list
price on it, a plain knob- keyed entry is I believe $135
for this situation, barring someone attempting to break in or
such, it should last 10 or more years.
I have sold to a local school, over 400 grade 1 handicapped
lever types, and in the last 8 years, had one give a problem and
it took a 65 cent spring to fix.
GO find the ANSI requirements for the locks and see how they are
for some fun reading.
You got some good advice but I want to give you a slightly different way to
look at it in making your decision.
1st - What's your time worth vs. the savings - Do the math.
2nd - compare price from locksmith and builder. make sure same hardware is
specified so you can compare prices to each others as well as your own
3rd - Make sure you, and your locksmith, knows if the doors have just holes
or if they have holes and mortises. The hole is the easy part, the mortise
for the strike plate and the latch are tedious to do and require a little
bit of skill with a chisel. I have done a lot of these but its sort of a
pain in the neck.
So, I figure I can install a passage or lockset in a pre-drilled,
pre-mortised, door/jamb in just a couple of minutes. If its significant
savings I would do it myself. If its just a couple of dollars savings I
would let someone else do it. if it involved mortises then I would look for
an easier way to cut the mortises.
One last thing to consider. if the doors are pre-drilled and pre-mortised,
and they are not hung perfectly, then the striker will not line up with the
strike plate. There is some play available but not too much. Will your
carpenter come back, after the lockset is installed, to re-plumb the door if
its not aligned? There are benefits to having your builder do it. if they
encounter a problem with the door install then they will quickly be able to
Have fun, let us know what you decide to do and how it turns out.
Do you listen to everything people tell you?
If so, go stick your head in your toilet and flush it.
Why are you even asking? Just install them yourself, and quit wasting
everyones time on this newsgroup. By the time you posted your message
you could have installed one lock. With the holes pre-drilled, there
is little to do except turn a few screws.
Personally, I never heard of a builder that cant install locks
though... I'd not let this guy build my place....
On Wed, 11 Jan 2006 20:57:17 -0500, tomas wilson
As I have read through the replys it seems no one has answered your
question. To me you were asking if a reasonably competent homeowner can
install knobsets in pre-drilled doors.
The answer is probably so.
Some pre-drilled doors are just drilled and you need to do a little chisel
work to mortise in the latches and strike plates, others are prepped for the
latches and strike plates and those are a breeze to install.
You can always try it by yourself on an obscure door and if all goes well,
then keep going, but if you have problems than you can always call in the
About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
tomas you can do it yourself. But take some advice here buy schlage or
yale locks and not the lowline ones for best security and less
Posted via TITANnews - Uncensored Newsgroups Access
>>>> at http://www.TitanNews.com <<<<
-=Every Newsgroup - Anonymous, UNCENSORED, BROADBAND Downloads=-
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.