The insulation in a self-cleaning oven is much better than in a non-self-cleaning oven. And the interior temperature reaches 900 - 1000 degrees F. You won't make much of a dent at 500 degrees F, but you sure will waste a lot of gas and generate a lot of heat.
I heard that the "self cleaning" oven cleans by raising the temperature to 500 degrees F. Would it be a problem to use this method on a standard non-self cleaning gas oven? Could it cause any leaks in the gas hose connectors?
500º will not hurt anything, but it also will not clean anything. Self-cleaning cycles go a lot hotter than that. They have locks on the doors that prevent opening the oven at the higher temps because it would be dangerous. Your oven is not designed for those high a temperature.
My recent experience with a self cleaning oven was not good. The result was that the entire oven electronics failed. The serviceman said that they cannot take that heat more than a few times. My conclusion is to not use the feature.
Interesting response from the serviceman. I have had two self-cleaning ovens and neither in over 20 years of cleaning have had an electronic failure. I have never heard of this problem and if it were common, I would think that it would be well known by now.
Might be brand/model related. My last one [Magic Chef] went 12 yrs on the electronics-- the replacement electronics went 6 more. Corrosion of the burners and floor of the oven is what made me finally give it up.
The Kenmore only has a couple cleanings on it so maybe it will fail next time. That's what warrantees and lemon laws are for.
seems like every oven I have had with the electronics fails somehow, costs more to have repaired.
I would love to replace my current oven that is not working now with one that has the old style thermostat and no electronics but of course can not find one anywhere ?
Its a 7 year old Maytag flattop. I suppose newer is not necessarily better. The oven cleaning feature had only been used a few times. Based on the various responses, I think I'll just use it and, if it breaks again, replace the whole thing.
I've kept (somewhere if ever could find them!) the mechanical type thermostats from several older cooking stoves. Been useful on at least one occasion. A useful modification is to interpose a suitable relay (one from electric heating can be suitable, but have also used old 230 volt signalling relays with their heavy contacts 'doubled up' found in a junk shop for $1 each!). That relieves the thermostat itself of actually switching the heavy resistive current load of the oven heating elements. We had one modified like that we used daily in a school cafeteria for some 10 to 15 years!
So far we've been able to get and use workable older style stoves (prefer to pay nothing for them if possible) so we have not yet graduated to having to use one of those cookers with digital display timers that 'do not reset' after even a minor power glitch. But guess that one of these decades we will have to resort to that! At that time will have to investigate how to add a memory maintaining battery?
And/or with the older style clock-timers if they mis-operate by-pass them if necessary!
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