First off, you obviously live in an area where freezing isn't a concern. :)
You don't want to start mucking around without some basic understanding of
what's going on there, so asking questions is good. Working with a local well
guy would be far better.
The well pump is dangling, but not from the cover. There's usually a pin/hook
inside the well casing from which a chain is hung. If your well is really 1500
feet deep, it will likely mean using a which - I wouldn't want to raise or lower
that much pipe by hand and if you slip you have a real problem.
There shouldn't be any wire splices inside the well. It should be one continuous
power line to the pump. Furthermore, opening the cover means you need to
sanitize the well before you close it up, so it's not something to do on a whim.
In general, I'd be a little concerned about the overall workmanship. It isn't
customary to have the pump controllers and wiring just kind of hanging loose or
dangling around the well. The water lines should be below the frost line all the
way to the house and even if there's no danger of freezing, they should be
buried enough that they won't get damaged mechanically.
At a minimum, all the electrical stuff should be in a weather proof box or pump
For very deep wells, the actual pump has to be at the bottom of the well.
If it is an electric pump, it will be multistage centrifugal, the number of
stages depending on the pressure required.
And it might be dangling from the rigid metal pipe or it may have a separate
wire rope and flexible plastic pipe.
It may need special equipment to extract the pump from thre bottomof the
well by jacking up the pipes and unscrewing them.
There are a couple of patent sytems where the pump can be extracted by
pulling out with a vehicle , they usually have the pump on a cable with a
flexible pipe. The cable is run over a temporary roller arrangement erected
at the wellhead.
There are systems where the pump is on the surface, working an injector
down the bottom of the well.
As I don't see a pump, I assume it's down the bottom of the well and it
appears to be rigid pipe. This is the traditional way of doing it. You
appear to have a pressure vessel/store. This has a resilient cushion of
trapped air. When water is drawn off, the pressure falls in here to a point
where the pump is restarted to fill it up again/restore pressure..
There looks to be several cables going down the well. The big one will be
power to the pump. The smaller one is probably a sensor so the pump can't
start if there is no water or the well is pumped dry. There will be a box
of tricks associated with this.
The pump must never be run dry, it relies on water for cooling the motor
It must never be run with the outlet valve shut,the water in the pump may
eventually boil & the pump motor overheat.
The plug in the tee at the well head (vertically orientated) is intended to
be removed and the extractor hoist screwed in there. A derrick is rigged
over the well & the pipes hoisted out. As the next joint appears the pipe
is clamped and unscrewed. The hoist is connected to the next pipe , hoisted
and so on untill the pump appears.
Quite a bit of stuff on youtube
There is one somewhere shows extracting a pump but I can't seem to find it.
You better fix that broken off electrical box connection. Not only is
this an electrical hazzard and a means to lose your water, but also
bugs, rain, and dirt is getting into your well.
You dont need to pull the pipes or remove the well cap to fix this.
shut off the power, open that electrical box, label where all the
wires go, and remove the wires from the screws. DO NOT LET THE WIRES
FALL INTO THE WELL COVER. You'll have to remove the other *feed*
wires and cable (housing) too. Then replace that short piece that
connects the box to the cap. I'd use solid galvanized steel pipe, not
that pot metal thing you have now. Put it all back together and
Take photos of the inside of the box before you remove the wires, just
in case you're labels fall off the wires (it can happen).
An effective well seal keeps contaminated water out as does having the well
head a foot or so above grade. I don't see how an apron adds anything to
that. Can't a dog crap on a concrete apron? No aprons required here in the
Peoples Republic of NJ, which sure has plenty of crazy rules.
I think the idea is that the concrete is impermeable, so any water would be
diverted 18" away from the well. No seepage outside the well casing and reduce
chance that any surface water would penetrate the casing.
If it's working, I would NOT remove the cap to make a new hole. To do that,
at a minimum, you'd have to lift the pump/pipe a couple feet so that you
could then secure the pipe in some way that would then allow you to remove
the well cap assembly without losing the pipe/pump down the well. IMO, not
worth it, especially since you're not concerned about meeting current code.
As others have suggested, I'd come up with a securing
method for the metal controller box. I'd secure it either to a metal
bracket that is then clamped to the T fitting on the wellhead or else secure
it to the concrete pad. Then use either silicone sealant or epoxy to seal
the liquidtight conduit fitting to the wellhead. Can't say if it meets code
in your area, but I'd sleep OK at night.
I bet the threads are NOT stripped. That pot metal fitting wont strip
a cast iron well cap. Maybe the pot metal part broke off in the
threads. If so, slip some thin hose such as gas line (automotive fuel
hose) over the wires so you dont wreck them. Then carefullt chisel
out the broken pot metal. It may fall in the well and wont hurt
anything, but try to not let it fall in if possible.
If all else fails, you can always use JB Weld to fasten a piece of
pipe into that hole. Let it dry for a day before attaching the box.
Personally, I'd attach that box to a treated 4x4 post next to the
well, and run the wires to the box inside of a flex conduit just like
you have on the input side of that box. A floating box like that is
just waiting to get broken off. Of course in order to mount it to a
post, you would have to splice each wire and tape it. I would only do
that if i was to solder each wire. and use a good quality tape.
On Wed, 03 Aug 2011 06:33:12 -0700, Smitty Two
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.