replacing a thermal fuse

I have a little space heater with a burned out thermal fuse.
All the web hits for thermal fuses seem to be about big things like clothes dryers.
At home I had a card with a selection of thermal fuses, but I never knew what value I should use. The original one didnt' have a value listed iirc. Or maybe getting hot made the number unreadable.
In addition, I was afraid to solder the thing in. The originals are always riveted. I can't rivet. Can I solder?
Finally, I won't be able to buy replacement fuses at hardware stores, will I? Just at a few online suppliers, unless I happen to be in the same city where one of them is located?
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On 3/12/2019 2:45 AM, micky wrote:

You might consider the cost of a new heater in relation to the cost of finding, acquiring, installing an unknown fuse. Assume you fixed the cause of the failed fuse?
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In alt.home.repair, on Tue, 12 Mar 2019 03:13:46 -0700, Mike

I like to fix things, and I don't like to throw things away, So that far surpasses the value of just buying a new one.

I wasn't here when it broke. But it's very clean inside. I'll take a look at how it runs after its fixed, or maybe I'll jump the fuse for a little while. I did bring a couple jumper wires.
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On 3/12/19 6:22 AM, micky wrote:

You're awesome!
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On 3/12/2019 6:22 AM, micky wrote:

Ditto on the "I like to fix things". I have a bathroom ceiling mounted heater, fan, light, nightlight unit. Apparently, Broan/NuTone has designed this thing poorly so that, especially in small bathrooms, it will blow if left on for a long enough time. The only replacement is to buy the new heater element from Broan/NuTone for something like $40. We have burned out maybe 4 of these in the 10 years in this house. I'm tired of paying for someone's bad design. So I searched on-line, actually ebay, for a replacement thermal fuse and found this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/131594495259 I was able to use a very small diameter screw and nut through the hole in the rivet, to tightly secure the fuse. I did have have to open the hole just a little with a small drill bit. It seems to work well with no soldering. BTW, these things seem to be color coded for different temps. But it seems to be identical to the original. I also bought an in-wall timers to shut off the heater, if accidentally left on.
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wrote:

I don't see any problem with shorting out that thermal fuse. I am not saying it is not a problem. I am just saying I won't see the fire trucks from my house.
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On Tue, 12 Mar 2019 12:21:41 -0400, snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

As a TEMPORARY measure, with the heater under observation at all time for diagnostic purposes - yes. And there are resettable thermal protectiondevices that can be wired in as replacements - Google "comstat" or "thermal cutout" There are even adjustable ones - and choice of auto reset or manual reset.
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wrote:

I might jumper a thermal out to prove that was the problem but then I am unplugging the equipment until I get the right replacement part. There are also a number of heat ranges so just because it looks right and works does not mean it is providing the required protection.
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On Tuesday, March 12, 2019 at 5:45:33 AM UTC-4, micky wrote:

They are commonly used in all kinds of heating devices, eg instant hot water units, hot water kettles, hair dryers, espresso machines, etc.

Online parts diagram? But there probably isn't one if this is a $20 one from Walmart. In which case I'd measure the temp of the air exiting and select one higher. If the air is coming out at 110, 130 is probably fine. It's there to detect it being blocked and in danger of catching fire, should be lots of margin as long as you don't use some nutty value.

Probably as long as you can keep the leads long. I'd cover the fuse with a piece of wet paper towel.

Yes, but that hasn't been a problem for me. I've had two thermal fuses go in my lifetime. One was in an instant hot water unit for the sink. It failed without any indication that it went over temp, ie it was full of water, water wasn't overheating, etc. The replacement one was a totally different design, mounted differently, leading me to believe the first ones were a faulty design. That stupid thing lasted a few more years, then started leaking. It was my second and last one. The other was in an electric kettle made by Breville. That one was buried inside a design that made it unserviceable. I had a Breville cordless blender that was a real POS too. Those were my only and last Breville products. They make stuff that looks great, but it's made like crap and fails.
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In alt.home.repair, on Tue, 12 Mar 2019 11:45:27 +0200, micky

This question was for when I get home. I'm traveling and don't have a soldering iron.
I did bring a tape measure, a very small digital VOM, a shirt pocket thing that opens to large and small, Philips and flat screwdrivers, and a couple jumper wires.
Two years ago my roommate had me putting casters on a cabinet , replacing hinges on a cabinet door, a couple things I forget, and replacing two 220V outlets. She thanked me over and over for the casters and one other thing and said not a word about the outlets, which would have required an electrician I assume, and a hefty charge.
They were right next to each other but on separate circuits. I turned off the breaker for one and thought I had both. I should have checked earlier. I could have killed myself. (One was there to begin with, and when the owner of the building put on another floor or two, he bribed the other owners by givign each of them two more rooms, and in this case more electricity in a room she already had, so one outlet was on one circuit and the other 6 inches away on the other. They don't have dual receptacles here, only single, so it didnt' seem strange that there were two of them.

I have to look at this thing in brighter light to decide if it's more than the fuse. I'll get back to you all. It's perfectly clean inside so I wonder what would make the fuse blow.
Yesterday I found two 25" CRT TVs in the trash, but I probably can't fix them, or even carry them. Today I found a vacuum cleaner, and my experience is that they always work and just need the lint removed from the pipe. But I was walking -- didn't have the car -- and my roommates have no carpeting, just tile.
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wrote:

You should have been here last week I threw away a 25" CRT TV and a 16" CRT monitor that were working.
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In alt.home.repair, on Tue, 12 Mar 2019 16:52:07 -0400, snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

If they're not broken, they lose some of their glamour.
But are tthey still there? Where do you live?
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In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 13 Mar 2019 01:28:56 +0200, micky

One t ime long ago in Brooklyn, I had a date to go to the Bronx zoo with a girl. On the way to the car from my apartment, I found a small tv. We went to the zoo, had a good time, I took her out to dinner, and afterwards she invited me back to her place. I'm so stupid I don't know what that probably means, but I really wanted to work on the TV in the trunk of the car. So I left her and went home and started in on the TV. It worked. I was so disappointed. Plus I think she was mad at me. (I guess I wasn't attracted to her because that didn't seem to bother me.)
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wrote:

They are in a SW Florida landfill by now I imagine. Tomorrow I am setting a bunch of old computers and other parts out there. I decided I am not building anymore W/98 or XP machines ;-) Last night I took about a half dozen hard drives apart for the magnets. (and some data security I suppose) Want any 3" disk platters? I may end up with some 5" before it is all over too.
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In alt.home.repair, on Tue, 12 Mar 2019 20:08:25 -0400, snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

Uh huh. So where might that landfill be? Do they lock it at night?

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They lock the gate at ours, but trivial to climb over it.

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wrote:

Why would you do all of that when there are CRT TVs for a couple bucks each at any thrift shop? Unfortunately they usually throw them away too because nobody wants them. Tell your local Goodwill to hold a couple for you.
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On Wednesday, March 13, 2019 at 3:56:55 PM UTC-4, snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

Do thrift shops even take them anymore? Even if it's a nice one, it's still only standard definition, no ATSC tuner and I'd think these shops would be getting HD ones these days.
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On Wed, 13 Mar 2019 15:56:39 -0400, snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

I've kept one around because it also functions as a CGA computer monitor, and a composite video monitor - in case I want to pull out the old RatShack COCO computer - - - -
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wrote:

There is usually a composite input on a flat screen and you end up with a better picture. That is why I threw the last of my CRTs away. These days, if I am saving an antique it will be a flat screen with a full array of inputs. These days you may just find a few HDMIs in back and an antenna jack. They are even leaving the 15 pin PC connector off of the new ones.
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