I have a little space heater with a burned out thermal fuse.
All the web hits for thermal fuses seem to be about big things like
At home I had a card with a selection of thermal fuses, but I never
knew what value I should use. The original one didnt' have a value
listed iirc. Or maybe getting hot made the number unreadable.
In addition, I was afraid to solder the thing in. The originals are
always riveted. I can't rivet. Can I solder?
Finally, I won't be able to buy replacement fuses at hardware stores,
will I? Just at a few online suppliers, unless I happen to be in the
same city where one of them is located?
Ditto on the "I like to fix things". I have a bathroom ceiling mounted
heater, fan, light, nightlight unit. Apparently, Broan/NuTone has
designed this thing poorly so that, especially in small bathrooms, it
will blow if left on for a long enough time. The only replacement is to
buy the new heater element from Broan/NuTone for something like $40. We
have burned out maybe 4 of these in the 10 years in this house. I'm
tired of paying for someone's bad design. So I searched on-line,
actually ebay, for a replacement thermal fuse and found this:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/131594495259 I was able to use a very small
diameter screw and nut through the hole in the rivet, to tightly secure
the fuse. I did have have to open the hole just a little with a small
drill bit. It seems to work well with no soldering. BTW, these things
seem to be color coded for different temps. But it seems to be
identical to the original. I also bought an in-wall timers to shut off
the heater, if accidentally left on.
On Tue, 12 Mar 2019 12:21:41 -0400, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
As a TEMPORARY measure, with the heater under observation at all
time for diagnostic purposes - yes. And there are resettable thermal
protectiondevices that can be wired in as replacements - Google
"comstat" or "thermal cutout" There are even adjustable ones - and
choice of auto reset or manual reset.
I might jumper a thermal out to prove that was the problem but then I
am unplugging the equipment until I get the right replacement part.
There are also a number of heat ranges so just because it looks right
and works does not mean it is providing the required protection.
On Tuesday, March 12, 2019 at 5:45:33 AM UTC-4, micky wrote:
They are commonly used in all kinds of heating devices, eg instant
hot water units, hot water kettles, hair dryers, espresso machines,
Online parts diagram? But there probably isn't one if this is a $20 one
from Walmart. In which case I'd measure the temp of the air exiting
and select one higher. If the air is coming out at 110, 130 is probably
fine. It's there to detect it being blocked and in danger of catching
fire, should be lots of margin as long as you don't use some nutty value.
Probably as long as you can keep the leads long. I'd cover the fuse with
a piece of wet paper towel.
Yes, but that hasn't been a problem for me. I've had two thermal fuses
go in my lifetime. One was in an instant hot water unit for the sink.
It failed without any indication that it went over temp, ie it was full
of water, water wasn't overheating, etc. The replacement one was a
totally different design, mounted differently, leading me to believe the
first ones were a faulty design. That stupid thing lasted a few more
years, then started leaking. It was my second and last one. The other
was in an electric kettle made by Breville. That one was buried inside
a design that made it unserviceable. I had a Breville cordless blender
that was a real POS too. Those were my only and last Breville products.
They make stuff that looks great, but it's made like crap and fails.
In alt.home.repair, on Tue, 12 Mar 2019 11:45:27 +0200, micky
This question was for when I get home. I'm traveling and don't have a
I did bring a tape measure, a very small digital VOM, a shirt pocket
thing that opens to large and small, Philips and flat screwdrivers, and
a couple jumper wires.
Two years ago my roommate had me putting casters on a cabinet ,
replacing hinges on a cabinet door, a couple things I forget, and
replacing two 220V outlets. She thanked me over and over for the
casters and one other thing and said not a word about the outlets, which
would have required an electrician I assume, and a hefty charge.
They were right next to each other but on separate circuits. I turned
off the breaker for one and thought I had both. I should have checked
earlier. I could have killed myself. (One was there to begin with, and
when the owner of the building put on another floor or two, he bribed
the other owners by givign each of them two more rooms, and in this case
more electricity in a room she already had, so one outlet was on one
circuit and the other 6 inches away on the other. They don't have dual
receptacles here, only single, so it didnt' seem strange that there
were two of them.
I have to look at this thing in brighter light to decide if it's more
than the fuse. I'll get back to you all. It's perfectly clean inside
so I wonder what would make the fuse blow.
Yesterday I found two 25" CRT TVs in the trash, but I probably can't fix
them, or even carry them. Today I found a vacuum cleaner, and my
experience is that they always work and just need the lint removed from
the pipe. But I was walking -- didn't have the car -- and my roommates
have no carpeting, just tile.
In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 13 Mar 2019 01:28:56 +0200, micky
One t ime long ago in Brooklyn, I had a date to go to the Bronx zoo with
a girl. On the way to the car from my apartment, I found a small tv.
We went to the zoo, had a good time, I took her out to dinner, and
afterwards she invited me back to her place. I'm so stupid I don't know
what that probably means, but I really wanted to work on the TV in the
trunk of the car. So I left her and went home and started in on the TV.
It worked. I was so disappointed. Plus I think she was mad at me. (I
guess I wasn't attracted to her because that didn't seem to bother me.)
They are in a SW Florida landfill by now I imagine. Tomorrow I am
setting a bunch of old computers and other parts out there. I decided
I am not building anymore W/98 or XP machines ;-)
Last night I took about a half dozen hard drives apart for the
magnets. (and some data security I suppose) Want any 3" disk
platters? I may end up with some 5" before it is all over too.
Why would you do all of that when there are CRT TVs for a couple bucks
each at any thrift shop? Unfortunately they usually throw them away
too because nobody wants them. Tell your local Goodwill to hold a
couple for you.
There is usually a composite input on a flat screen and you end up
with a better picture. That is why I threw the last of my CRTs away.
These days, if I am saving an antique it will be a flat screen with a
full array of inputs. These days you may just find a few HDMIs in back
and an antenna jack. They are even leaving the 15 pin PC connector
off of the new ones.
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