I have a little space heater with a burned out thermal fuse.
All the web hits for thermal fuses seem to be about big things like clothes dryers.
At home I had a card with a selection of thermal fuses, but I never knew what value I should use. The original one didnt' have a value listed iirc. Or maybe getting hot made the number unreadable.
In addition, I was afraid to solder the thing in. The originals are always riveted. I can't rivet. Can I solder?
Finally, I won't be able to buy replacement fuses at hardware stores, will I? Just at a few online suppliers, unless I happen to be in the same city where one of them is located?
They are commonly used in all kinds of heating devices, eg instant hot water units, hot water kettles, hair dryers, espresso machines, etc.
Online parts diagram? But there probably isn't one if this is a $20 one from Walmart. In which case I'd measure the temp of the air exiting and select one higher. If the air is coming out at 110, 130 is probably fine. It's there to detect it being blocked and in danger of catching fire, should be lots of margin as long as you don't use some nutty value.
Probably as long as you can keep the leads long. I'd cover the fuse with a piece of wet paper towel.
Yes, but that hasn't been a problem for me. I've had two thermal fuses go in my lifetime. One was in an instant hot water unit for the sink. It failed without any indication that it went over temp, ie it was full of water, water wasn't overheating, etc. The replacement one was a totally different design, mounted differently, leading me to believe the first ones were a faulty design. That stupid thing lasted a few more years, then started leaking. It was my second and last one. The other was in an electric kettle made by Breville. That one was buried inside a design that made it unserviceable. I had a Breville cordless blender that was a real POS too. Those were my only and last Breville products. They make stuff that looks great, but it's made like crap and fails.
I don't see any problem with shorting out that thermal fuse. I am not saying it is not a problem. I am just saying I won't see the fire trucks from my house.
I have a Breville bread maker and the design of that is fine. The original paddle design was improved so that the later ones had a much better non stick coating so didn’t end up with bread stuck on the paddle at the end. Never had a failure of the body of the machine or the electronics for what is decades now.
I might jumper a thermal out to prove that was the problem but then I am unplugging the equipment until I get the right replacement part. There are also a number of heat ranges so just because it looks right and works does not mean it is providing the required protection.
This question was for when I get home. I'm traveling and don't have a soldering iron.
I did bring a tape measure, a very small digital VOM, a shirt pocket thing that opens to large and small, Philips and flat screwdrivers, and a couple jumper wires.
Two years ago my roommate had me putting casters on a cabinet , replacing hinges on a cabinet door, a couple things I forget, and replacing two 220V outlets. She thanked me over and over for the casters and one other thing and said not a word about the outlets, which would have required an electrician I assume, and a hefty charge.
They were right next to each other but on separate circuits. I turned off the breaker for one and thought I had both. I should have checked earlier. I could have killed myself. (One was there to begin with, and when the owner of the building put on another floor or two, he bribed the other owners by givign each of them two more rooms, and in this case more electricity in a room she already had, so one outlet was on one circuit and the other 6 inches away on the other. They don't have dual receptacles here, only single, so it didnt' seem strange that there were two of them.
I have to look at this thing in brighter light to decide if it's more than the fuse. I'll get back to you all. It's perfectly clean inside so I wonder what would make the fuse blow.
Yesterday I found two 25" CRT TVs in the trash, but I probably can't fix them, or even carry them. Today I found a vacuum cleaner, and my experience is that they always work and just need the lint removed from the pipe. But I was walking -- didn't have the car -- and my roommates have no carpeting, just tile.
One t ime long ago in Brooklyn, I had a date to go to the Bronx zoo with a girl. On the way to the car from my apartment, I found a small tv. We went to the zoo, had a good time, I took her out to dinner, and afterwards she invited me back to her place. I'm so stupid I don't know what that probably means, but I really wanted to work on the TV in the trunk of the car. So I left her and went home and started in on the TV. It worked. I was so disappointed. Plus I think she was mad at me. (I guess I wasn't attracted to her because that didn't seem to bother me.)
I've still got a working 50" wide screen CRT TV that I can't bring myself to chuck out. Bit hard to for one person to carry tho and it is on the other side of the world, so not actually that easy for you to get.
They are in a SW Florida landfill by now I imagine. Tomorrow I am setting a bunch of old computers and other parts out there. I decided I am not building anymore W/98 or XP machines ;-) Last night I took about a half dozen hard drives apart for the magnets. (and some data security I suppose) Want any 3" disk platters? I may end up with some 5" before it is all over too.
You can solder with pliers as heat sinks. You can about guess temperature range, easier to measure normal range with IR meter. If it has fan, shutting down may increase temperature of sensor.
Why would you do all of that when there are CRT TVs for a couple bucks each at any thrift shop? Unfortunately they usually throw them away too because nobody wants them. Tell your local Goodwill to hold a couple for you.
Do thrift shops even take them anymore? Even if it's a nice one, it's still only standard definition, no ATSC tuner and I'd think these shops would be getting HD ones these days.
I've kept one around because it also functions as a CGA computer monitor, and a composite video monitor - in case I want to pull out the old RatShack COCO computer - - - -
There is usually a composite input on a flat screen and you end up with a better picture. That is why I threw the last of my CRTs away. These days, if I am saving an antique it will be a flat screen with a full array of inputs. These days you may just find a few HDMIs in back and an antenna jack. They are even leaving the 15 pin PC connector off of the new ones.
That sure doesn't look like a 50 inch TV. I had a 36" and it looked bigger. So, put a tape measure diagonally across the screen so we can see and take another pic.
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