replace sprinkler valve

[bizee]

Have to replace a bad valve. The original set I put in have a different width between the inlet and outlet piping, than the valves I can find now. The first one that needed replacement 2 years ago required me to Rube Goldberg it with some 45 degree and other couplers to reduce the width to fit the new valve.

Eventually, I'll have to just replace all with a manifold, but that won't happen this week. The difference in width is just about the OD of a 1/2 inch pipe.

Is there some trick or method to easily do this, or do I have to jury (sp?) rig it like the other one?

thanks

Sheri

[BobK207]

I do not know of an easy / clean way to make up short distances like that w/o disassembly of the system.

Sounds you'll have to Rube Goldberg it in again; you might consider Toro Funny Pipe (barbed fitting poly pipe) on the downstream side of the valve & stuff in a service loop to make your connection. You can screw in the fitting & then shove the pipe on

I use the stuff to "move spriklers" or install extra heads.

When you rebuild / replace the manifold I suggest using Champion sprinker vavles

I use them in all my sprikler valve installs

Champion red brass atuomatic anti-siphon valves with unions

If you don't want electrical control the electric autators can be added later, if you want

The anti-siphons are a little more expensive but protect the water system from backflow contamination.

The red brass valve bodies will last a LONG time, the valve guts can be replaced & the electric autators .can be rebuilt or replaced easily.

I've got some that are approaching 30 years; repalced the solenoids a few years ago & a couple of actuators before that.

A mainfold setup using these vavles will allow the change out of a valve in just a few minutes (just make sure you allow enough swing clearance between valve risers U& use the vavles w/ unions)

I'm not a huge fan of in-line valves; change out is harder & the anti-siphon feature must be plumbed in seperately

cheers Bob