recently a strong (very strong) T-storm passed in my area and managed to damage the gate. the screws that held the deck gates were stripped out hinges, the screws were also lost. don't know what happened to them.
I didn't build the gate. the gate uses spring hinges.
I'm thinking I should get some bolts/nuts instead of screws. what do you think?
here are the pics
You can fill the old holes with glued in dowel or even toothpicks. Drill pilots and put wood screws back in. Maybe longer than what was in there. Sure, you can use bolts but you'll get catch points on the other side, and they'll rust on. Screws should work fine.
--Vic
I think you should just do it, why bother asking?
I can't access the pictures at work but...
Are the holes in the hinges big enough for Lag screws? Could they be drilled to handle them?
Lag screws would have beefier threads than screws and wouldn't leave anything sticking out on the other side of the post.
That type of hinge is usually used for lightweight screen doors. You might consider replacing them with hinges made for gates - on the gate side they have a long tongue that gets a better grip on the gate. Also known as a T hinge. see, e.g.,
About 6 months after the carpenter built the gate, the hinges eventually came off the gates. When I went to fix it, the carpenter who built it didn't have a lick of sense. He used small length screws He did, however, used at 4 long length screws on each hinge. I did find some longer length screws, I think they were 1" long and replaced all small length screws and fixed the hinges.
to avoid catch points, can indent be made to lower the catch point profile or would that compromise the wood?
is there any thing wrong with asking for an opinion on how to fix it?
I was gonna do the bolt/nut thing. got some good suggestions tho.
good question about the lag screws fitting the spring hinges. my guess is they probably take in 1/4" screws.
I'll have to get some lag screws from home depot and see if they fit.
the spring hinge in question are usually made for screen doors. I have one like that on the screen door.
They don't have to fit off the shelf as long as you have enough material on the hinge to drill the hole big enough so that they *do* fit.
Make sure you pre-drill the posts for the lags. Unless you get Grade 8 lags you run the danger of snapping the heads off depending on how hard the posts are.
DAMHIKT
Closest to correct answer. Wrong hinges for the job, way undersized for a gate that heavy. T-hinges may work, but finding enough flat spots on gate to attach to may be a problem. I'd be inclined to use farm-style drop-in hinges, where you bold a loop to to post, and an L-shaped piece to the gate, whereby the pins drop into the hole. Note that with heavier hinges, may need to make the gate a tad narrower, which doesn't look like a big deal. Go to nearest farm supply or fence store- they will have a whole aisle of possibilities. Print the pictures and take them with you, and look for the clerk with the grayest hair to help you- one look at the pictures and they can point you to the right item.
you mean something like this?
I know they're for vinyl hardware, would they work better?
On Tue, 05 Apr 2011 14:26:54 -0500, dilbert firestorm
I tend to agree, since he also ran the crossbrace wrong. Should run from down on the hinge side, to up on the opening side. Eventually, as is, the gate itself may sag, and as is, the crossbrace won't help much
another carpenter did that crossbrace. He said that the original carpenter didn't put the cross brace on the gate to begin with, as you put, the gate would sag. so he set it incorrectly then?
would wood putty do the trick in filling and sealing the hole before re-use?
Never used it for anything that will be under stress so I can't say. Done plenty of hinge screw holes with toothpicks, bigger holes with dowels. With toothpicks I don't even bother with glue. Just tap them in the hole with a hammer, getting as many as you can in there. They'll break off with the hammer and you can hammer flat what still sticks out. Shave with a blade or file if the hammer doesn't do it all. It's behind the hinge and as long as the hinge beds good you're okay. Just drill deep enough to get the screw going in straight. Think that gate is pine so if you use longer screws don't even worry about drilling beyond that. But if it's hard wood drill your pilot hole to the screw length.
--Vic
I used to be a steel erection contractor, and repaired a lot of gates of all types. Your hinges are lighter than you need, or you should add a couple of those same types. But, they anchor close to the edge, and the wood can split out easily. If you get hinges with the holes farther back, you can put bigger fasteners in. Use pilot holes.
Put a diagonal aircraft cable banjo string on it to help keep the weight from deforming the gate, or kids leaning on it. It does have a diagonal wood one right now, but they don't work very well. You need to make that post as substantial as you can. In one of the pictures, it is clearly visible that you could have put much longer hinges on there, and perhaps even drilled through, and put carriage bolts with nuts. Where you can, install the L brackets, just to add stability and strength to your gate.
Go look for some "strap" hinges, some of which have an Early American blacksmith made look, and are snazzy. And talking about snazzy, dude, paint it while you have it off.
Good luck.
Steve
Heart surgery pending?
L brackets at the corners?
I said, "where you can". They look best on inside corners. They are inexpensive and give the gate a lot more rigidity and strength.
Steve
Heart surgery pending?
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