I have Douglas Fir paneled entry (exterior) door that has rot on the
lower center stile. Some wood worm holes on the middle center stile and
what appears to a new bottom rail (10 inches high) made out of a some
sort of yellow pine. The door is curved and getting a replacement is
going to be very hard. So I am left in the position of having to repair
it. I am looking for suggestions on how to stop the rot and wondering
if I can fill the damage with something so i don't have to replace the
center stile. Also what would be a good filler for the woodworm holes.
The door will be repainted when I am done.
This post was cross-posted to alt.home.repair.
Thanks in advance.
I've repaired a fir entry door. It was drastic surgery, but the repair has
lasted for 6 years and still sound. I replaced the rotten wood with new fir
wood. I'll be glad to post a couple of photos if it will help. IIRC, I used
Gorilla glue on the glue ups.
To replace the door which is curved would require removing and
rebuilding the frame, which given how this frame was built would
require redoing the stucco.. So this would be a really big job. Bigger
than repairing the door? I don't know yet.
Reproduction maybe for a price far exceeding $2k. Even a quality flat wood
door can exceed $1k
Have you considered a wood epoxy filler. These can be molded like putty and
after hardening can be cut and sanded. Matching a transparent stain might
be impossible but paint or opaque stain would be OK. This material I have
seen used to repair rotted window sills, just be sure to rout or cut out all
rotted and damaged wood. You may also need to cut keyways (slots wider at
the bottom) so the filler does not fall out if the wood expands or shrinks
with humidity. A router with a flaired bit is excellent for removing rotted
material as is any roto tool for smaller areas.
Saturate the remaining wood with Jasco wood preservative (clear or green) or
similar product to prevent any future rot or insect invasion. Do this after
the repair in case the preservative makes any adhesives stick poorly.
I just repaired a pair of exterior Douglas Fir, sliding garage side doors
for someone. Pictures are already posted at:
.... and may give you some ideas on at least one approach to repairing a
rotten bottom rail.
Only that I am far from being a fan of dowel joinery as a rule, but I do
believe in using the best joinery method consistent with the desired result,
and in not taking an unnecessary amount of time in doing it.
Having at least some expertise with most all the joinery methods that could
have been used in this situation, and the tools to do them, and since there
was really no shear or racking forces involved with these hanging doors, I
made a judgment call that dowels would be sufficient for this task, and they
were certainly quicker ... only time will tell.
It would be helpful if you could post picture of the offending door.
Otherwise, I would vote for replacement, but even that's hard to say
without knowing how bad the rot is. I'm not a fan of having some sort
of weak exterior door.
Dig out all rot, drill numerous small holes in the nearby surrounding
wood and fill them with a thinned epoxy (lacquer thinner, acetone) to
firm up adjacent wood. As it is absorbed, add more epoxy until holes
remain filled flush. To fill what you have dug out - also worm holes -
mix epoxy with a thickener (fine saw dust will do) and slather into
holes. If you removed substantial wood, you can fit a wood dutchman and
glue in with epoxy before filling to save on epoxy.
Since you are going to be refinishing, it wouldn't hurt to also drizzle
thinned epoxy into all joints where water could enter/penetrate.
Sand and paint.
A general epoxy info & source...
Non boat useage...
A specific "how to" for a repair similar to yours...
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
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