I am working with a pair of steel entry doors that are in need of a
facelift. There are chips and strips of paint missing (from ripping
tape off) and old screw holes from old weatherstripping.
I am planning to bondo and sand the hold, but for the paint chips and
strips should I use bondo to "skim coat" or sand down the entire door to
remove the paint and start again?
I can't remove the doors as they are exterior entrance doors
Any suggestions would be appreciated
Well, you _could_ remove the doors and temporarily install anything from a
used door to a sheet of plywood cut to fit. I guess it all matters on
whether you care how it looks for the time you'd need to strip the doors
properly and repaint.
Security might be an issue, but I hope that you don't live someplace where
the substitution of door for a day or two would guarantee a home invasion.
Have you considered using stripper instead of sanding? Skim coating a door
with Bondo and then sanding it smooth is going to make a hell of a mess,
especially with the door still installed in the entrance way.
I won't respond to every reply but thank you all for your input.
This is a Church and theses are the main entry doors so it's a weekend,
after hours project so door removal is not an option.
The stripper idea is one I hadn't thought of, so perhaps a day per door
to strip and prep? The holes from the old weatherstripping are there
because the new stripping didn't line up. So either glazing putty or
bondo for those parts.
I will let you know how the project progresses
Depends. Are the chips/strips shallow enough that a coat or two of primer
would fill them? If so, I'd spot fill them, sand smooth and then (probably)
prime all, sand as needed, paint. I'm suggesting the primer to fill because
it is easier to sand than Bondo. Another option - better than either - is
glazing putty; not the stuff for glass, that for boats. It is used for the
precise purpose of filling shallow imperfections.
Come to think of it, there is auto glazing putty too, available at any NAPA
store. It is essentially the same solids as Bondo but in a lacquer base
rather than polyester resin, comes in tubes, around $10-$15 for a largish
tube. Sands like butter.
If too deep, use Bondo, sand, then prime sand and paint
I had double steel doors in my last house. They had a window in the
upper half. When I came into some really nice antique leaded stained
glass bookshelf doors, I wanted to install them. The were a little
longer than the original windows. In the lower half of the door there
were plastic do-dads where the plastic was pinned into holes in the
steel. The new window were bigger, but didn't cover all the holes and
other imperfections. I used bondo (for the 1st time ever in my life) to
fill the holes and some imperfects. I remember it going pretty easy.
And I remember the sanding going easy too. It looked great; we really
loved it. I don't thing the new owners really appreciated it that much
as they put curtains over the inside. Yuck! Of course, because leaded
stained glass is not that great against weather, I put another clear
glass window on the outside, so it still looked great from the inside.
I still don't see why removing the doors isn't an option. House, church,
school, whatever. Temporary doors can be fashioned fairly quickly and
secured in a variety of ways.
This might be overkill, but it gets the point across...
I had some friends who bought land near Cooperstown, NY (home of the
Baseball Hall Of Fame). About 20 years ago they wanted a cabin built on the
land. They sent out letters to friends and family across the country saying
that they would be camping on the land during the upcoming summer and
inviting everyone to come down and help build.
A year earlier he had a forester come in with a portable saw mill who cut
all the wood he needed for the 2 story cabin.
My family went down for a couple of weeks and we had the best vacation
we've ever had. When we got there the raised platform had been built. When
we left they were shingling the roof. The exterior and roof sheathing was
all done with 1x6 material. Lots of cutting and nailing.
Every morning the women made us a huge breakfast and afterwards the men
would walk the 1/4 mile to the build site. The kids swam in mud ponds,
nights were spent with guitars and other various instruments around the
camp fire. Naturally we burnt all the cutoffs from the build.
Did I mention that it was the best vacation I ever took?
Why can't polyester resin be used for a door when it can be used for boat
Once it's painted/sealed water should not be a problem. Ditto for glazing
On Wed, 30 Apr 2014 03:06:52 +0000 (UTC), DerbyDad03
Polyester resin and fiberglass is different than polyester resin and
talc or whatever they use in Bondo as filler. I've used bondo on lots
of cars - if the steel is not sealed well, moisture behind causes it
to pop, eventually.
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