I am interested in recording some tv shows.
I have a free HDMI port but do not know if it is an output.
I assume I will need a DVR as well.
I saw this.
But did not see how much capacity it has to record.
Do they make some that let you use either an internal hard drive or record to a DVD?
This is a very complex subject and is critically dependent
on what you are trying to accomplish.
The devil is in the details.
How are you getting these TV shows to record?
Antenna? Cable? DirectTV?
Do you want to record more than one at the same time?
How are you gonna play 'em back?
Can you just play 'till it's done, or do you want fast forward,
pause, setup record times, and other control functions? How do you
access these functions? computer? phone? Directly on the device?
Are you gonna keep 'em forever or just time shift and delete?
Do you need to share them?
Free HDMI port on what?
Can you dedicate a computer to this functionality?
Where are you located (country)?...and that's just to start.
Like I said, a very complex issue...
In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 1 Aug 2018 02:56:00 -0700 (PDT), Andy
I understand and did so when I posted.
Trader says it's an input port. For a varietyi of times when you can
import something to be displayed on the TV. For example, my DVDR has an
output HDMI port, that I could connect to the port on your tv. Or if
you have a Tivo or something else that you want to input.
HDMI is, or was 10 years ago, the latest thing, one cable for sound and
picture. I don't know
That was meant to save you money and possibly bring greater versatility.
If you have a spare computer, the software is free, iirc, so the only
thing you have to buy is something for remote control .IIUC. Or you can
skip that and the whole thing is free, and probalby has more options
than most VCRs.
You can look on the web and find other "Record OTA, or off the air"
devices. There is one online vendor I used to deal with that had 2 or 3
modlels but I can't remember the name. It was big on antennas-- I bought
a couple amplified antennas from them, had an alliterative name, I even
had a whole mailbox of advertising they sent me, but I seem to have
deleted it. Solidsignal.com, that's it. (and the mailbox is there,
namedd solid, but it shows no unread emails, when I thought almost all
of them were unread. I was only looking at the names of the ones with
But the thing you have from Walmart doesn't seem bad. You know yyou
have to buy a separate external harddrive, but that in a way is a good
thing, because my harddrive is internal, and when it fails it will be a
challenge to initialize a new one. (I used to have instructions and
maybe still do, and they might well be online at an avs forum, where I
saw them in the first place) So it's better if they're external and you
can just buy another. It's the mechanical parts of thigns that fail.
But I've been doing well, timed recording and watching about 18 hours of
tv a week, every week for 11 years.
It's not surprising that it's Walmart selling this. You and I are
spending like poor people, and that's walmart's market. So 11 years ago
when I bought my DVDR, they were about the only place selling it. I
think it's by Philips, and it has a DVD reader adn writer, but it's much
easier to record to the harddrive, and I can play back a prior recording
while making a new one. (Although 4 tuners is just about ridiculous. I
haven't seen two good programs on at once, let alone 4. Still, once an
IC is designed, it costs only a few cents to make each one.)
Mine has no digital tuner so I have to use a converter box, and there
are several little flaws that could have been corrected in a firmware
update, but none was ever written.
I know mine will break eventually, so it's good that this thing by Tablo
is out there. It appears not to have buttons on the case and I hate
that, but what can I do. The ones at solidsignal were adequate also.
(I just found out that the supermarket 3 minutes from me is closing,
probalby because Walmart sells food. I hate walmart food. I could
decide to go to the grocery at 11:20 PM and be back by 11:35.
BTW, googling your model I found recondiitioned for 180 or 150
I have 3 spare remotes that I bought over the years, one for the
kitchen, one for my office, and one for the bathroom. If I have to
change DVRs, I'll have to start over on that. And I use Powermid so I
can control the central DVDR from any of those rooms, and the basement.
I have some spare powermids for when they break (and they do break).
I also have an amplified antenna so I can get DC stations here in
Baltimore. This probably wonn't apply to you becuse there aren't that
many examples of two cities so close to each other, yet far enough away
that the regular antenna doesn't work.
Then the signal for baltimore was too strong so I had to buy an
attenuators (a little thing with one input, one output and a knob, only
50 cents at a hamfest, $5 or 10 new) and then I have to find the right
setting. Too strong and baltimore channels overload and don't show (a
design flaw in the DVDR I guess). Too weak and the DC channels don't
come in. Only one setting is a decent compromise, and because of that,
weather has a bunch to do with it. But this probably doesn't apply to
Has nothing to do with need. There are many issues that
you will encounter along the way. Thinking about it on the
front end can save a bunch of $$.
That's easy. ATSC TV converter box to your VCR. Done.
I used to have 4 converter boxes hooked to two VCRs.
VCR couldn't change channels, but it could select from two input
You will record to a computer.
Decision is whether to construct one for cheap
or pay for one inside a little dedicated box
that almost does what you really want.
A 2.8GHZ dual-core computer running windows 7 can record 4 tuners
while playing a fifth recording.
I played with HD-Homerun tuners. Trivial to set up.
Problem is that I didn't like the compression
This is one of the gotchas that you'll encounter.
It is very annoying everywhere, but here's an
easy way to see it in action.
Watch a football game. The camera follows the ball
carrier down the field. What does the background view
of the stands look like. If it moves smoothly, you're
in good shape. If it's jerky and fuzzy, you're not
gonna like the result.
But, I don't watch football, you say.
OK. Look at a closeup of a person with a wrinkled face.
Looks great if they don't move. When they move slightly,
the wrinkles disappear, then paint in as the compression
catches up. It's very annoying. HDTV is very demanding.
Media Center in windows 7 records the raw stream.
Looks great. Downside is that it's about 5GB/hour.
In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 01 Aug 2018 12:54:10 -0700, mike
Here's a question that seems related to this.
I watch 1950's and 60's TV that's broadcast over the air, and I use a
digital converter, and I record it on my digital DVDR harddrive.
When I play it back, will I have lost something, a) from the original?,
b) even from what is broadcast in digital?, c) even from what my digital
converter put out because even though philips didn't mention it int he
manual, they were bound to have used compression?
Sometimes I think a syllable of a word is missing. Is that because of
a, b, and c above? Or is it because my hearing is failing a little
bit? :) Give your best guess.
When I watch Law & Order and one or two other shows, sometimes the music
is so loud I can't understand what they are saying. I know my hearing
is failing a little bit, but I don't see how better hearing would let me
hear better when the music is so loud. And I know about selective
frequency loss, but it's usually the high frequencies that are lost,
part of the music, and not voices, which tend to be lower. If I could
listen to the original, without a, b, and c above, would I be able to
hear it like one should? Give your best guess.
Every conversion loses something.
The original shows from the '60's were CRAP by today's standards.
They got converted to digital for broadcast. Then your converter
turned them back into analog.
Then your DVDR converted them back to digital and recorded them, likely
with compression. Depending on how your player works, they may
get converted back to analog again.
All my stuff is recorded in .wtv format by media center.
There are multiple audio channels. When I play them back with VLC,
the default audio channel varies by the TV channel, network,
show or randomly.
Changing the audio channel does affect how it sounds in some
non-deterministic way. On some PBS recordings, the default audio
channel deletes the dialog, but plays everything else. Other audio
channel has everything. I had to write a program to let me change
audio channels without a keyboard.
I don't know how the Philips device works. There may be some equalizer
configuration that can compensate for frequency selective issues.
I have a Tivo that does it all for you and also streams the common
online sources but it won't let you record streams. I have a 1 TB
drive in there and it would take a real long time to fill that up. You
can also download the Tivo shows to a PC and burn DVDs from there.
On Wednesday, August 1, 2018 at 12:20:24 AM UTC-4, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
I've had Tivos since they first came out and I love it. It was a very
smart DVR when others were still dumb. It downloads the schedule and
you can just get a seasons pass to a series, it will then record them
all, even if the one next week is two hours instead of one, or it's
in a special time slot. You can also put in keywords and it will
record shows that match those or an actors name and it will record
all shows with that actor in them. I suspect many DVRs have those
features now, especially the ones from the cable companies, but I've
never seen one as easy to use as Tivo.
The downside is they aren't cheap and you have to pay for the TV schedule
service, either monthly of with a lifetime purchase if you're going
to use it for more than a dumb recorder that just goes by time and
channel. It also requires an internet connection. He could look
on Ebay for used ones with a lifetime subscription. In any case,
I'd just get a DVR, not try to integrate one out of a PC.
I agree. I have a stack of "TV" cards and the software and they are
all clunky. These days the TV cards have DRM hardware in them that
limits what you can record anyway. The Tivo I have (Roamio OTA) came
with lifetime for about $300. I paid that much in 1999 for a Replay
with monthly service. I still liked the Replay better. Commercial skip
was automatic, among other things. The recording interface was as good
or better than Tivo or Dish.
The Dish DVR did seem to have most of the features I got in the Tivo
as far as the guide, recordings etc are concerned and Dish has a
feature I wish Tivo could figure out. The TV popped up caller ID on
incoming calls and logged them all.
On 8/1/2018 1:29 PM, email@example.com wrote:
Don't know about the Dish DVR but I learned that my Comcast X1 DVR does
not record the shows but leaves them on the cloud for you to view but
you must be connected to the cable. I learned this when power and cable
went out one night. I connected my generator but could not view DVR'ed
shows. If the power goes out and DVR is set to record you will be able
to view the show when it comes back on even though power was off during
Dish records them, there is no cloud, no a cable going back to the
host. They are out there spinning on a hard drive but you can't get
them off even if it is the "aux" USB connected drive. They are in some
proprietary format. You have to watch them with the Dish box.
A PC won't even see the drive and I haven't heard of a Linux guy who
could actually get the shows off.
OTOH Replay and Tivo will export a usable file.
As to DVR, I wanted one in 1999 and looked at what was available. There
was TiVo and ReplayTV (not advertised as much). I decided that Replay
was better and have used them all the time since then (except for a year
or so with Ultimate TV). Replay would probably still be better if they
hadn't stopped making them had never had a HD model.
I still have a 4500 but it has a bad drive. I know I can image a
drive, go on a web site somewhere to get my lifetime turned back on
and go but I was really running out of things I could do with it when
the guide that had Dish on it went away and I don't even have dish
now. About all it is good for is copying NTSC movies to download to a
PC. These days if I want a movie that bad I just buy a DVD at Goodwill
(or some other cheap place) and rip it.
On 08/03/2018 07:49 PM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
I have an old 2020 which I can't use now (cable went all-encrypted and
the 2020 doesn't get the new IR codes), but most of mine are 5000-series
models. Drives can be replaced, although it is getting harder to find
parallel ATA drives. Use a USB-IDE adapter and you don't need to open
the computer case.
There's 2 ways, an internet site called LaHo (Last Hope ...) or a
Windows program called WiRNS (Windows Replay Network Server) which I
use. You still need a guide source (usually Schedules Direct, $25/ year).
The alternatives I mentioned include guides.
It can be used with cable, or antenna (although antenna doesn't work as
That is one use for it. One of the major advantages of Replay is that
the digital recordings are available (most DVRs keep them locked up).
BTW, Replay isn't HD but it DOES handle widescreen.
My problem trying to use it OTH is I could not find a blaster code the
converters I had would take so it would be a totally manual operation.
I do remember my old Sony BetaMax SL7200 where the whole operation was
manual but I don't want to go back to that.
I know about the Wirns, I even have the software but I just don't want
to fool with it.
The Tivo does have a DVArchive type app but I haven't used it much.
These days, it seems that anything worth watching is in the cloud
anyway. I fired Dish and I had fired Comcast years before that. I
don't see myself ever going back.
If I did rebuild the Replay system I would use a drive I have in the
stack. If you are spooling them off to a PC right away, you don't need
a 320. I have a bunch of 40s.
On 08/04/2018 12:51 PM, email@example.com wrote:
Apparently there are ways to add codes, but it's not easy. When trying
codes, it can be easier to start at the END of the list (where the new
codes are). There are additional codes available for either of the
sources I mentioned.
I used to have DirecTV, and quit mainly because of the really poor
customer service. With cable, there's an office n town.
Replays can get really slow when you have a lot of recorded shows, so
copying to PC is a good idea.
In 1970 I saw a movie called "2001: A Space Odyssey" in a theater. Near
the beginning it showed a bunch of apes doing what apes do. A caption
showed up saying "our forefathers" and people in the theater laughed.
Every time I've seen that movie after that, that caption isn't there.
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