I have a black and decker firestorm 24V cordless hammer drill. It works
very well. But there are 2 things I dont like. The torque setting is
inconsistent. I have messed up holes occasionally due to this.
Especially when changing the speed. That affects the resultant torque
Is there any cordless drill that has more consistent torque setting?
Also, I would like some kind of drill stop to help speed up my hold making
when I know the depth ahead of time. Any drill also with that feature?
Never noticed any difficulty w/ Milwaukee but never done a controlled
Not than I'm aware of, but there are a million add-on ways to accomplish
it from as simple as a piece of tape on the bit to "store-bought"
jigs...choose a method that suits you is best I can recommend.
If you typically do repetitive things of the same type, making a set of
collars of the desired size(s) and depth(s) would seem worthwhile. You
can, of course, buy them as well.
We are about to start a project where we will be installing vertical
supports on each side of the garage door. It will need three holes on
top (each side) and three holes on the bottom (each side) ... top
holes are different size from bottom. How do we make a "collar" so
that after we drill the first hole and get it right, we can put on the
collar and do the other holes uniform size? Thanks.
I'd use two drills or drill all of one size or then the other, or this
would also be a place to use the interchangeable hex bit holder, or...
Actually, I now realize that several of my drills _do_ have an extension
bar w/ a clamp which can be set to hit the work at a preset depth -- in
40+ years I've never used the "feature" so had completely forgotten
about it....it would be another way...
Is one style of purchasable ones -- actually one of the nicer as they
clamp on the overall bit diameter, not like some that have just a set
screw that sets on the bit itself...these, you see, are made for a range
of bit sizes.
To make your own, two basic choices --
1. Drill hole in a block or the right size or slightly larger and
adjust the bit in the chuck in combination w/ the wood thickness to get
the right depth. Rarely is the depth so critical as that closer than
1/8-th or 1/16-th at most is required for accuracy and lots of times not
even that -- all you normally require is to not blast through some piece
so anything that prevents that is "good enough"...
2. Use a little more effort in the construction and model them after
those in the link -- add a lock screw to one by drilling through from
the side. Doesn't take much to hold in place and it's easy enough to
thread a block of wood using a bolt or screw and in side grain w/ a
piece of hardwood it'll hold quite a bit.
Normally, unless there's a real problem in seeing what I'm doing I'll
take the simple expedient of a piece of masking or electrical tape
around the bit at the right place and just wing it -- again, it's rare
the depth has to be exact to much precision...certainly from something
you've described can't imagine it would matter much at all.
Actually, another respondent just jogged my memory that I have a couple
of hand drills (not cordless, though) that have a depth rod that can be
adjusted. As I noted in that response, in all the time I've had them
I've never found the need... :)
I suppose one could fashion something similar if desired...
What are you drilling that it is noticeable on a drill setting (messing
up holes puzzles me -- I can understand depth on driving screws, harder
time w/ drilling).
Other than that, no comment other than the B&D Firestorm is a relatively
inexpensive line, try Milwaukee red or similar...
Torque setting on a drill is to limit the torque, its not like a
horsepower dial or anything ;)
When drilling, you turn the setting to 'drill' which is all the way up.
Do you know of a better powered screw driver? I woudl like to have one as
it is a headache to keep swapping out drill bits for screw heads.
I have only Milwaukee for cordless and no complaints. I don't do enough
setting of screws like drywall or deck-laying, etc., to make a dedicated
screwgun worthwhile. As noted, I've never had a complaint w/ Red for
the torque setting w/ what I have done...
-- I am screwing screws into plastic holes most often. sometimes
-- like plywood or particle board.
And for this you are using a hammer drill? Hammer drills are typically
used for drilling into concrete, not screwing screws (or even drilling
holes) in relatively soft materials such as the examples you gave.
As far as making a drill stop that should be foolproof, try this:
1 - Cut a length of dowel stock to the exact length needed to expose
just enough of the drill bit for the depth of the hole
2 - Drill a hole through the center of the dowel stock.
3 - Slip the dowel stock over the drill bit.
I've seen this method used when drilling the holes for undermount
sinks. The last thing you want is for your "screw-on" drill stop to
slide up the bit and cause you to drill through the counter top. By
slipping a solid piece of dowel stock over the drill bit, you won't be
able to drill any deeper than the exposed section of the bit.
On Wed, 13 Jun 2007 08:39:13 -0700, DerbyDad03 wrote:
LOL, yea I usually have a helluva time with those flathead screws. The
hammer action really requires a steady hand and damn good timing :D
The drill needs the option to turn off the hammer feature. I am not a
professional carpenter so I dont have several better tools, but fewer
tools that to acceptably. its just that I am less than satisfied with the
I think these drill stops sound much better than the drill attachments. I
had trouble when I had an attacment because the slightest tip of the drill
and the depth changes.
Using them on a counter top is a good example. I just had to do that at
my moms. I use the tape now, but id rather have a proper stop of some
- The drill needs the option to turn off the hammer feature. I am not
- professional carpenter so I dont have several better tools, but
- tools that to acceptably. its just that I am less than satisfied
My point was that a hammer drill is not a standard homeowner or
carpenter's drill. Typically one would only buy a hammer drill as an
"specialty" tool, not as the only drill in one's arsenal, especially
if the hammer feature cannot be turned off. I cannot imagine trying to
use a hammer drill for everyday projects.
Perhaps you are less than satisfied because you're using the wrong
tool, not because the tool itself is a B&D.
On Wed, 13 Jun 2007 10:58:18 -0700, DerbyDad03 wrote: -
Perhaps I was not clear. The drill I have no is a B&D 24V cordless hammer
drill. The hammer feature can be turned on and off. it has a torque know
too, and a hand chuck.
I use the hammer feature when I am drilling into the basement walls or
floor for one reason or another. Otherwise I use the drill with the
hammering turned off.
OK...I missed out. I had thought that but figured they might have
forgotten it... :)
I'm still partial to Red (Milwaukee) if you're still asking...
But, they're not cheap -- not most expensive certainly, but not on the
"low price spread" side, either.
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