So, the old reliable Saeco Classico espresso machine finally had a problem, after only 25 years. Over the last year or so, the crema had slowly disap peared. Last week it would barely pull a shot, very low flow. So, I tried descaling first, because it was time anyway. That didn't fix it. So, I fi gured it must be the pump. To my amazement it uses an ULKA vibrating pump which is readily available. Apparently they go in all kinds of espresson m achines, medical equipment and similar. So, I was going to order one, but then I thought I might as well take this one apart, see if there is any way to fix it.
It comes apart easily and there is actually a blogspot that had good info o n what is typically wrong with them. This one, I think it's just an o-ring that seals the piston. It fits loosely on the shaft, which can't be right . If it's loose it can't build up the 9 bar pressure. Actually the pump i s spec'd at 15 bar, which is over 200 psi. So, I spent some time figuring out the size and it's 5mm inside diameter, 2mm thick. Found them in China , they are on the way. I also ordered an overhaul kit for the portafilter and a kit for the brew head. A screw that goes into the brew head that hol ds the screen on was stripped, that had been getting worse over the years. While I have it apart, I drilled the brass threads out from a 5mm to a 10-
32 size hole and tapped it. That's fixed. So, waiting for the rest of the stuff and I think I'll have her back in business. Total spent so far $47. I'm about 70% confident that o-ring will fix the pump. If it doesn't for another $32 I can get the whole pump. Either way, it will be like new ag ain, a great Italian machine, well built, easy to service will be back brew ing espresso in a couple weeks.
So you can make espresso and do blood transfusions by just changing the reservoir liquid? Damned handy to have. Nice that you can get a part for anything after 25 years.
machines, medical equipment and similar. So, I was going to order one, but then I thought I might as well take this one apart, see if there is any way to fix it.
they are on the way. I also ordered an overhaul kit for the portafilter and a kit for the brew head. A screw that goes into the brew head that holds the screen on was stripped, that had been getting worse over the years. While I have it apart, I drilled the brass threads out from a 5mm to a 10-32 size hole and tapped it. That's fixed. So, waiting for the rest of the stuff and I think I'll have her back in business. Total spent so far $47. I'm about 70% confident that o-ring will fix the pump. If it doesn't for another $32 I can get the whole pump. Either way, it will be like new again, a great Italian machine, well built, easy to service will be back brewing espresso in a couple weeks.
On Wednesday, May 30, 2018 at 2:35:18 PM UTC-4, Tekkie® wrote:
lem, after only 25 years. Over the last year or so, the crema had slowly d isappeared. Last week it would barely pull a shot, very low flow. So, I tr ied descaling first, because it was time anyway. That didn't fix it. So, I figured it must be the pump. To my amazement it uses an ULKA vibrating p ump which is readily available. Apparently they go in all kinds of espress on
ut then I thought I might as well take this one apart, see if there is any way to fix it.
fo on what is typically wrong with them. This one, I think it's just an o- ring that seals the piston. It fits loosely on the shaft, which can't be r ight. If it's loose it can't build up the 9 bar pressure. Actually the pu mp is spec'd at 15 bar, which is over 200 psi. So, I spent some time figu ring out the size and it's 5mm inside diameter, 2mm thick. Found them in C hina,
and a kit for the brew head. A screw that goes into the brew head that hol ds the screen on was stripped, that had been getting worse over the years. While I have it apart, I drilled the brass threads out from a 5mm to a 10-
32 size hole and tapped it. That's fixed. So, waiting for the rest of the stuff and I think I'll have her back in business. Total spent so far $47. I'm
ther $32 I can get the whole pump. Either way, it will be like new again, a great Italian machine, well built, easy to service will be back brewing espresso in a couple weeks.
Well, that pisses me off. Latest on the espresso machine rebuild, I got th e o-ring from China that I thought was the right size, 2 x 5 mm. It fit the pump piston tighter than the old one, but still not as tight as I would hav e hoped. Tested the pump, it worked significantly better, but still not up to the required pressure and volume. Did some more investigating and this Ulka pump works by vibration, using a solenoid. Turns out they have a diod e inside the solenoid so that it cuts off power for half a cycle. I did some testing on the diode and it's conducting partially in the reverse direction! So, I got a diode to put in series and viola, further significa nt improvement in the performance. Then I decided to order a smaller o-ring from a guy in Canada. And after I had bought that, I found another guy on Ebay selling the o-ring and the little plastic ball that the pump uses for a check valve. The ball apparently wears, IDK what the correct size is supposed to be, so for another $5 I ordred the ball and his o-ring.
The Canadian o-ring came first, I put it in and now the pump is working perfectly. So, why am I pissed off? Yesterday the other o-ring and ball came from TX. It was in a regular envelope. When I got it out of the mail box, I felt it, it was very flat. Already I'm wondering where's the ball? I open it and it has one of those cardboard things that you use for hot paper coffee cup holders in it, with a piece of tape. Nothing inside the cardboard or envelope. Then I see a small hole at the bottom of the envelope. My understanding of envelopes and similar "flats" is that they have to be flat and uniform. You're not supposed to put a pea size ball or similar in there, because the auto sort gear can't handle it. So, now another pain in the ass, have to resolve that with the Ebay guy. Interesting data point, I ordered probably 8 separate things related to this from Ebay. Six from China, two from Bulgaria. All were shipped properly, shipped quickly, arrived relatively quickly, no problems. The US vendor in TX was the only problem. He advertised priority mail shipping. Right away, that can't be, because it's only $5 for the ball and o-ring including shipping. I see it doesn't ship for like 3 days, so I contact him, he says, "I was away for a few days, it will go out Monday". No, I'm sorry, nothing. Then he ships it improperly. People can complain about China, but they have their act together compared to some other people.
So, I'm waiting now for one more o-ring for the steam wand. I should have ordered that in the beginning, but didn't realize it was even there until I started testing and realized it was leaking. But it's definitely fixed and will be back in service soon.
oblem, after only 25 years. Over the last year or so, the crema had slowly disappeared. Last week it would barely pull a shot, very low flow. So, I tried descaling first, because it was time anyway. That didn't fix it. So , I figured it must be the pump. To my amazement it uses an ULKA vibrating pump which is readily available. Apparently they go in all kinds of espre sson
but then I thought I might as well take this one apart, see if there is an y way to fix it.
info on what is typically wrong with them. This one, I think it's just an o-ring that seals the piston. It fits loosely on the shaft, which can't be right. If it's loose it can't build up the 9 bar pressure. Actually the pump is spec'd at 15 bar, which is over 200 psi. So, I spent some time fi guring out the size and it's 5mm inside diameter, 2mm thick. Found them in China,
r and a kit for the brew head. A screw that goes into the brew head that h olds the screen on was stripped, that had been getting worse over the years . While I have it apart, I drilled the brass threads out from a 5mm to a 1
0-32 size hole and tapped it. That's fixed. So, waiting for the rest of t he stuff and I think I'll have her back in business. Total spent so far $4
I'm
nother $32 I can get the whole pump. Either way, it will be like new agai n, a great Italian machine, well built, easy to service will be back brewin g espresso in a couple weeks.
Espresso Machine rebuild update. Well, I finally got the last of the o-rin gs and also new silicone water hose. I rebuilt the portafilter with the kit from Bulgaria. And now it's making espresso like it was new again, lots of crema, where before it had none. The pump can generate enough pressure to even reach the emergency blow off valve pressure now, which I'm guess must be around 200 PSI. I found that out by having a blocked portafilter one time.
It's interesting how they generate the steam too. To do that they heat the sealed off boiler to 263F with the pressure building so it doesn't boil. When it reaches that temp, the light goes out, then you open the steam valve and the steam just flies out. In case you're wondering what the stea m if for, that's to froth the milk to make capuccino.
So there's one last thing remaining, which is I working on replacing all th ree switches which turn the unit on/off, turn the pump on/off for espresso and turn the boiler on/off to the higher temp for steam. The main power one failed years ago, but I switched it with the steam switch because the power one used two poles, only one was shot, while the steam switch only needs on e. I noticed a flash coming from the power switch, so that one must be on it's way out too. I think I've identified a sources for the switch, but while researching this I came across something that raises a question as to how they work.
These switches are DPST with a green dot indicator light on them. The ligh t is connected internally between the two poles, so to get it to light, one pole must be on hot, one on neutral, when the switch closes, the indicator light comes on. The switch though seems to be rated for 120V or 230V. So, how does that work with the indicator, which I assume is a small neon bulb? Does it light up much brighter with 230V? Or does the voltage not m ake that much difference with a neon bulb so that it's about the same brightnes s? Also, I see similar switches on Ebay that also say they have lights, but nothing about how the lights are connected or work, so I'm assuming they are probably mostly the same, ie the bulb is between the two pole terminals ?
And lastly, another curious thing, on Ebay there are vendors selling these switches with indicator lights that come in red, green, yellow, etc, which I get, but then they also have black ones that are a color choice in the same listing, ie they say they have a light too? How can that be? You'd think black wouldn't light up and there is no indication of any dot or anything where there would be a light. Here's an example:
Go to Ebay and put 323281863643 into the search bar, that's the listing number. Notice also that these also are rated for 125 or 230V so somehow apparently the same bulb works for both voltages. But what about the black switch, do you think they really light? Good thing is they are so cheap I can order a couple kinds to try.
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