I'm about to buy a house that I saw a piece of rebar sticking out of
from under the back door saddle about 2 inches from the outside face
of the brick and about 2 or 3 inches from the face of the wood door
frame. Since the house is about 3 years old, it may be off warrantee
with the builder and because it is close to the door frame, it may not
be a tripping hazard but it's really hard to say. It's on the side
where you grab the door knob to open the door (right side as you face
door). It seems to be in a tight spot and bent up about 20 degrees
from horizontal thru a mortor joint. I'd prefer to torch it off but
fear it is too close to the wood door frame and afraid it could catch
on fire?? My other choice might be to create a small mound of
concrete or mortar to cover it but this won't look great either. I
have no idea how to cut it off cleanly. Any ideas? If it were safe
to torch off or cut off, who do I hire?
<observer> wrote in message > I'm about to buy a house that I saw a piece of rebar sticking out of
For less than $20 you can buy a cheap angle grinder from Harbor Freight and
cut it off flush in a few minutes.
The same abrasive wheel will cut masonry and metal so be careful. Wear eye
Cutting it flush will still leave the end expose and it will probably rust
and eventually cause the concrete (or whatever it is sticking through) begin
to crack, stain, or otherwise look bad. I'd try to get it cut below the
surface and patch it so it was water-tight.
Nobody else said it, so I will- can the OP post a picture somewhere with
a link here? The only reason I can think that a builder left a rebar
hook sticking out was a design change for the door step or porch slab.
And I am curious, now.
As to the rusting and staining- a dab of expoxy smeared onto the cut end
and into the surrounding masonry should keep that to a minimum. A little
dab of gray paint dusted with a little concrete dust should hide it
My hubby said you first cut it off flush with bolt cutter (not all may
be able to do that :o). Then
hit it right on center with a center punch, and proceed to drill with
increasingly larger bits (starting
Don't know what a saddle is .........concrete step? Is the house on a
slab? Assume it is a
slab or there would not be much reason for rebar??? Rebar near the
surface can rust and
crack concrete - common problem in Florida. Should be cut deep, but
have no idea how.
If you can't get a 3 to 4 inch angle grinder
equipped with a metal cutoff wheel in there,
you could get to it with a Dremel tool and
cutoff wheel. You probably thought of hacksaw
already and figured it wouldn't work unless
you have a handle that will hold a hacksaw
blade like a jab saw.
Seal the end of the re-bar with pitch/tar liberally when dry and pack
hydraulic concrete sealant over patch. Let cure and reapply Hydraulic
concrete patch. This is where the anchor grooves work.
This hydraulic patch is mostly used to seal cracks in concrete driveways.
There may require a primer before hydraulic patch.
Sell the tool and discs in a yard sale for the first offer if you feel
you'll never need it again. Same with the supplies. Time and success will
dictate when to have a yard sale.
Could this be a Ufer ground that was never hooked up. Take a look at the plans
or ask the AHJ.
If it just a goof up and you cut it off flush (see other posters) then drill
and tap a hole in the rebar for a stainless steel plumbing cover plate and
caulk it up and no rust...
Tekkie Don\'t bother to thank me, I do this as a public service.
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