rebar protrusion problem

[observer]

I'm about to buy a house that I saw a piece of rebar sticking out of from under the back door saddle about 2 inches from the outside face of the brick and about 2 or 3 inches from the face of the wood door frame. Since the house is about 3 years old, it may be off warrantee with the builder and because it is close to the door frame, it may not be a tripping hazard but it's really hard to say. It's on the side where you grab the door knob to open the door (right side as you face door). It seems to be in a tight spot and bent up about 20 degrees from horizontal thru a mortor joint. I'd prefer to torch it off but fear it is too close to the wood door frame and afraid it could catch on fire?? My other choice might be to create a small mound of concrete or mortar to cover it but this won't look great either. I have no idea how to cut it off cleanly. Any ideas? If it were safe to torch off or cut off, who do I hire?

[Colbyt]

For less than $20 you can buy a cheap angle grinder from Harbor Freight and cut it off flush in a few minutes.

The same abrasive wheel will cut masonry and metal so be careful. Wear eye protection.

Colbyt

[Norminn]

Don't know what a saddle is .........concrete step? Is the house on a slab? Assume it is a slab or there would not be much reason for rebar??? Rebar near the surface can rust and crack concrete - common problem in Florida. Should be cut deep, but have no idea how.

[The Daring Dufas]

If you can't get a 3 to 4 inch angle grinder equipped with a metal cutoff wheel in there, you could get to it with a Dremel tool and cutoff wheel. You probably thought of hacksaw already and figured it wouldn't work unless you have a handle that will hold a hacksaw blade like a jab saw.

TDD

[Mark]

Cutting it flush will still leave the end expose and it will probably rust and eventually cause the concrete (or whatever it is sticking through) begin to crack, stain, or otherwise look bad. I'd try to get it cut below the surface and patch it so it was water-tight.

[aemeijers]

Nobody else said it, so I will- can the OP post a picture somewhere with a link here? The only reason I can think that a builder left a rebar hook sticking out was a design change for the door step or porch slab. And I am curious, now.

As to the rusting and staining- a dab of expoxy smeared onto the cut end and into the surrounding masonry should keep that to a minimum. A little dab of gray paint dusted with a little concrete dust should hide it pretty well.

-- aem sends...

[gpsman]

Cut it off and drill it out...?

Overkill, ISTM. -----

- gpsman

[Colbyt]

Cut it off flush with the angle grinder then turn the blade towards the wall and remove enough material to create a small divot.

Cover with mortar, epoxy, paint or caulk as other have posted.

Colbyt

[SteveB]

So, how do you get in there below surface level to cut it off? Cutting torch? Nah, breaks the concrete. Jackhammer? Nah. Could you please explain how one does this?

Steve

[Bob M.]

...but there is such a thing as a sawzall available at the local rental shop that would do the job, especially with a flush-cut attachment.

[The Daring Dufas]

I was under the impression that the piece of rebar was hard to get at. A reciprocating saw may be too big to get in there.

TDD

[Norminn]

My hubby said you first cut it off flush with bolt cutter (not all may be able to do that :o). Then hit it right on center with a center punch, and proceed to drill with increasingly larger bits (starting with 1/4").

[SteveB]

Cut it off and drill it out...?

Overkill, ISTM.

Explain to me how one would drill out the rebar without damaging surrounding concrete. Rebar is tough stuff.

Steve

- gpsman

[Stormin Mormon]

Hello, pharmacy? I'd like a pair of eye condoms.....

[RLM]

$17.00 and borrow or rent small air compressor. The cut-off grinder guard comes off to get closer. Wear safety goggles. Cut re-bar and grind flush. Maybe cut some anchor grooves above and below bar in the concrete. Water helps cut concrete. This is an air tool so oil liberally when begining and done.

$10

$5 Goggles> $2 Seal the end of the re-bar with pitch/tar liberally when dry and pack hydraulic concrete sealant over patch. Let cure and reapply Hydraulic concrete patch. This is where the anchor grooves work.

This hydraulic patch is mostly used to seal cracks in concrete driveways. There may require a primer before hydraulic patch.

Sell the tool and discs in a yard sale for the first offer if you feel you'll never need it again. Same with the supplies. Time and success will dictate when to have a yard sale.

[Tekkie®]

posted for all of us...

Could this be a Ufer ground that was never hooked up. Take a look at the plans or ask the AHJ.

If it just a goof up and you cut it off flush (see other posters) then drill and tap a hole in the rebar for a stainless steel plumbing cover plate and caulk it up and no rust...