I've done my share of "advanced DIY projects" - jack hammering a slab
to move a cast iron shower drain, dropping a chimney into a kitchen to
remove a farmhouse fireplace, flooring over a walk-in baptismal font
to expand a church office, etc.
That said, I don't want to find out until it too late that I didn't
really have room to slide the coils out with the lines attached. With
my luck, the lines are one small bend away from kinking or something
drastic like that. I think I'll pass on this one.
Well, ain't that special? LOL. You had Evan telling you
how you were incompetent to cut that PVC exhaust pipe and re-glue
it. He said only a HVAC pro should EVER do that because
even a tiny leak is dangerous. Now it turns
out that the "pro" that installed it never glued it at all
where it meets the furnace. He just used some putty!
According to Evan you should be dead for sure by now
from carbon monoxide.
A - It definitely should be glued
B - The manufacturers should provide a means
of disconnect where it joins the furnace
C - A homeowner with typical PVC gluing skills can
cut a PVC furnace exhaust pipe and install a
coupling without any great danger. Installing a
gas appliance is far more dangerous and half
the people walking out of HD with a new
gas stove or dryer do that.
D- Evan is rapidly becoming the alarmist village idiot.
Which is about what I expected. Manufacturer should
have these designed for access to be cleaned. But
the fact that they don't and that probably 95% of the ones
out thereare working without ever being cleaned probably means
that with a decent filter it isn't a necessity. As I said before
when I replaced my 25 year old AC the coils were
perfectly fine. And that was just using a std 1" thick
re: "A - It definitely should be glued."
Well, I've had a CO detector hanging near (but not too near!) the
furnace and it's never registered the tiniest blip in 5 years, so I'm
guessing the putty was doing a decent job.
In addition, I don't think the exhaust port is PVC, so I'm not sure
what glue would be used. It's some type of black plastic and other
junctions inside the furnace appear to use a darkish red glue.
Whatever that adhesive is, will it work with PVC?
But, when all is said and done, if I glue the vent to the port, I
don't think I'd ever get the panel off since it's the base of the vent
where it enters the port that blocks the the panel from being swung
But as I said earlier, if I glue it, no one will ever be able to get
the panel out.
As it is now, the panel just clears the port with vent removed.
Once it's glue in, it would have to be cut right at the port making it
very difficult to reattach it with any kind of repair fitting. I'd
have to go "internal", reducing the size of the vent - and then reduce
it again next time, and then again, and then again until I had a solid
I'm thinking that might not work out so well. ;-)
Oh my gosh! Are we back to considering Evan's suggestion that I cut
the panel into pieces? Say it ain't so!
So putty around the junction of the PVC vent where it slips into the
exhaust port is OK, right?
No need for it to be glued? Good!
P.S. I'm going to start a new thread about my blower turning off..feel
free to respond. ;-)
I would say it's NOT ok to use putty around the PVC exhaust fitting.
I'll bet if you pull up the install instructions for the furnace,
you should be able to find online, it will say that it's supposed to
be glued. That is what the instructions for Rheem say and I'd
be extremely surprised if any manufacturer or code allows them
to be just puttied in place. It would be far too easy for someone
to bump into it, dislodge it, etc., in particular a small child. And
putty isn't anywhere near the perfect seal you can get with
PVC glued joint.
As for the female connection on the furnace being black, that's
typical. AFAIK, it's black PVC. At least Rheem calls for using
regular PVC solvent and glue to make the connection. Which
all goes back to what I said from the beginning. Manufacturers
should provide a means for disconnecting the exhaust, but I
have not seen one. The ones I've seen are like yours Derby.
Once glued on the exhaust side if you want to remove it
completely back to the furnace, you'd have to replace the
inducer blower housing as it's all one piece.
To address point number 1:
Yes, that is code in the four states in New England that I have done
repair work in...
To address point number 2:
Nothing may be vented to the atmosphere when doing any sort
of HVAC work in Massachusetts or Rhode Island... Nothing...
So if Nitrogen is charged in a coil during shipment to prevent
damage, it must be recovered prior to the pressure test and
the refrigerant being charged into the system...
Next fallacy ?
Maybe that explains a lot of the NY attitude -- too many
pollutants in the air...
Not in the NEC. Doubtful 4 New England states are insane.
Good point. Nitrogen is one of the serious air pollutants and nothing is
being done about it. Your capturing it is a step in the right direction.
You NYers need to listen to Evan. Capture the nitrogen before it is too
On Mon, 30 May 2011 22:19:41 -0500, The Daring Dufas
Well, Dihydrogen Monoxide, or Hydrogen Hydroxide, as I prefer calling it, *is*
the most dangerous substance around. More people are killed by it than any
other. BAN IT NOW, as you always say, for the children!
How would cutting the PVC drain pipe help?
If I cut (or even removed) the drain, I still couldn't pull the bottom
of the panel away from the furnace.
I'd have to rotate the panel along the same plane it's on now, but
there's 4 1/2" of panel between the cut out for the drain and the edge
of the panel. In other words, way too much material to be able to
rotate the panel enough to remove it.
You unscrew the drain pipe which will allow you to rotate the cover
out and remove it. If the A coil is really dirty, I pump the system
down, disconnect the line-set and everything in the way, slide the A
coil out of the housing and take it outside to give it a good cleaning.
I wish I had some pictures of the systems me and my friend GB install
so I could give you an idea of how we install a system so it can be
easily serviced. It amazes me how many AC installers won't spend a few
extra dollars and take a little more time to insure a system can be
accessed for service later on. ^_^
re: "Are you sure you can't get the PVC vent loose and swing it
The vent stack is sealed with putty around the inlet and then again
where it exits the house. Are you suggesting that I remove the putty
then pull the vent stack up and out?
I removed the lower panel and it looks like I'd have to lift the vent
about an inch to clear the black inlet tube on the furnace.
I'm not sure if that's doable, but if that's what you're suggesting, I
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