Proper way to affix 6 pound sledge to hickory handle (metal & wood wedge in slot)?

Yep, you must use the wedges. It's possible that the handle absorbed some moisture and expanded since it was made. It's okay to use a handsaw and enlarge the slot a bit so you can get the wood wedge started, and the wood fibers will crush a bit as you hammer it in. The metal wedge installed will expand the top of the handle wood in the opposite direction. Both are important.

The head will come loose very quickly with any use.

If you can get the head back off the way to proceed is to start the wood wedge in the slot before slipping the head on. Using heavy hammer then drive the handle as far as you can. You said it fit fine. I have always had to do some shaving on mine.

To get the head back off, hold the sledge up with one hand on the handle and use a heavy hammer to drive the head off, alternately blows from side to side.

When it is driven tight, there should be some excess sticking out on he 'wedge side'. Drive the wedge down as far as you can then cut the excess handle off flush with the head. A hacksaw works good for that. Then drive the metal wedge in.

I find that the 'handle protectors' (rubber donuts) will moe than double the life of a sledge or maul.

Harry K

The hole in the head of the sledge should be tapered...the wood wedge expands the handle in one direction to expand the handle into the taper, the steel wedge expands it in the other direction. Once the handle is expanded, the sledge head can't come flying off so yes, you have to use the wedges even if it means skinnying down the handle a bit.

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I haven't done one in 20 years [when I bought those ugly yellow handles that last forever] -- but *that* is the proper way. Use a rasp to make the handle fit snugly while still leaving a small slot to start that poplar wedge. Pound that one home- then put the metal one in crosswise.

Rasping makes the handle stick better. Don't widen the slot.

Jim

Old wives tale and instructions to that effect in the warning labels. Myth busters proved it is wrong as has my lifetime experience of doing it with wedges, mauls, sledges, hammers, anvils, etc. Never got so much as chip (other than caused by mushrooming).

Harry K

Starging the wedge befor inserting handle works very well for me.

Harry K

Yep. One of my problems doing handles on my equipment is that both maul and sledge are so old I can't read the markings and am never sure which is the small side :).

Harry K

Start the wooden wedge in the slot before you put the head on.

Start the head on then vertically bang the handle end on something solid like a concrete floor until the head seats.

Drive in the wedges.

Jimmie

I was afraid of that.

Didn't see any at Home Depot or Lowes. Need to look them up. Makes sense.

Hmmmmmm? I 'looked' at both ends of the metal head and didn't see either side being larger than the other. There was a "6LB" & the company name stamped on one side of the maul head and nothing on the other side. That seemed to be the only difference.

Do the maul heads really have a top side and a bottom side?

I only saw 'markings' on one side; but how do I know whether they indicate the top or the bottom of the maul head?

The hole 'looked' the same to me.

That's exactly how I did it.

I looked on the maul head for markings, and found what appears to be a brand name and the letters "6 LB" on one side; but I couldn't tell if that was the top or the bottom of the maul.

I put the hole on the shaft on both sides - and - they appeared to be the same (but I may have been wrong).

Then, I simply tapped the bottom of the handle on the pavement and the hammer head slipped down. It wasn't easy though. I had to tap as hard as I could on a concrete curb (asphalt would have dented easily) about 20 or so times for the head to make it flush to the top of the wood.

Of course, as I stated, now there's no room for the wood wedge or the metal wedge.

This 6 LB maul has hit hard concrete very many times and has slight mushrooming - but - no chips.

Then I should have skinnied down the hickory handle! :(

Now the problem is to get the maul 'off' the handle ...

The "ugly yellow handles' were both more expensive and quite a bit heavier (maybe three times heavier) when I held one the wood in one hand and the yellow fiberglass in the other hand.

So, I opted for good old hickory.

In hindsight, would the installation have been any different on the yellow fiberglass handles?

The 'only' way that was going to happen would have been if I 'rasped' the handle down smaller ... or ... if the maul truly has a top and a bottom ... then maybe I put it on upside down (but I sure couldn't tell the difference).

Many do. I have also seen some that had sort of an hourglass cross section. The cheapest (or least-well designed) may have a straight sided bore.

When you get the handle off, use calipers to measure the hole...both ends of it and the center.