I just googled and found SilverLine windows are a division of Anderson which are tops, Contact Anderson also I think a rep will come out for free immediatly, Anderson did for me, Being a division of Anderson they should be well made
I think most thermostats have an adjustment that determines how far off the setpoint it allows the temp to drift before taking action. So for example if you set it to 68, will it allow the temperature to drift down to 67.5, or 67, or 66 before kicking on the furnace, depends on this adjustment. I know my old cheapo Honeywell round thermostat had this, but you had to take the cover off to monkey with it. If you feel it is cycling on an off too much, adjusting the drift setting may help with that.
"Setback" usually refers to a feature on the thermostat that allows you to set the temp to different values for different periods of the day. So for example you can set it to go down at night, and perhaps during the middle of the day if no one is home then, but be toasty in the morning and evening when you are up and around. -- H
Maybe its called, Swing
They are SilverLine windows and I don't know what model they are. The builder is scheduling to have a SilverLine window guy come out and take a look.
We do have a programmable thermostat, but it doesn't help much since I have a stay at home wife with 3 kids... so the house is always set to
I went through the manual (will check again tonight), but I found nothing about the setpoint. Here is the thermostat that I have:
After doing some digging on Silverline's website, I found the following:
"The ENERGY STAR program was developed by the US Department of Energy and the US Environmental Protection Agency to help consumers identify products that save energy and, therefore, keep your home more comfortable. All Silver Line windows and patio doors, when ordered with the appropriate glass, meet or exceed the ENERGY STAR guidelines in all 50 states."
- All Silver Line windows ... when ordered with the appropriate glass, meet or exceed the ENERGY STAR guidelines...". Now, were my windows ordered with the appropriate glass... thats the question...
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Your issue is not the glass, yet. To meet or exceed ES guidlines verified air infiltration tests should be good meaning you could have a defect. I dont think you should feel air comming in on an Energy Star window, get the test data from silverline and compare it to others.
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Which is what I said earlier -- I'm convinced the air infiltration is an installation problem, not the window itself.
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He said the air comes in the side tracks of the window that would not be an installation issue although with his uneven heating and an 80% furnace the builder cut corners.
Depends -- I suspect that is behind the air seal of the window itself and is infiltration into the cavity. Would have to see the specifics of the window design to be absolutely sure, but seems unlikely it's an inherent design flaw.
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I'm sure that the windows are the bottom of the line SilverLines... I have yet to get an answer on what model/series they are.
After having the HVAC guy here for a few hours today and having him properly label all ducts, we adjusted the dampers and pretty much have all rooms within a degree or 2 of each other (theromostat currently at
69 and the "cold" room is at 68.2). I think the biggest issue was that I have a vent in my tv room about 10 feet away from the thermostat with a duct run of approx 12 feet. This was pumping out mega heat and was causing the thermostat to shut off much sooner and wasn't running enough to heat the other rooms.I had mentioned to him that the one room (the only room we really close off) gets cold at night. This is my baby's room and we like to close the door until the kids go to bed (so they dont wake her). We notice that when we close the door, the room drops a few degrees (as much as 5). I think this has plenty to do with the windows and the air infiltration. Both the builder and the HVAC guy gave me the following reason. They said that when you close a room off like that, you're seperating it from the rest of the house. Since the room has 2 windows and 2 outside walls (and a ceiling), its going to get colder. I'm not sure if this is BS or not. It's not a large bedroom at 10x13 and this is the room that had heat coming out at 100+ degrees, so I don't know if i buy it. I know the master bedroom seems to get warmer if we keep the door closed (which we do), but we have a total of 5 vents in the master bedroom/bath/closet.
I posted pictures of my windows earlier in this thread. You'll see that the "insulation" on the side of the lower sash consist of just a thin piece of felt like material. I don't know how this is supposed to insulate.
Id say the builder hired the cheapest hvac guy he could, to have a difference of f5 from the first to the second floor your first floor needs more supply, your furnace has a design in the temp rise, just closing vents without checking the temp rise just above the furnace will with enough vents closed raise the temp to above the heat exchangers limit for long life. And I bet he did not check its temp. Hire someone like an inspector to go over everything before your warranty runs out.
Anderson just bought SilverLine in 2006, and, according to this press release, the operate the company as a "stand alone subsidiary."
I haven't noticed a difference in quality from before Anderson bought them 'til now. They are an inexpensive, perfect for a builder. Not necessarily bad, but not top end either.
To the OP - I would expect that the hvac guy told you that the t-stat is capable (internally) of reading down to a tenth of a degree. It will run the furnace as necessary, sometimes in short cycles, to keep the house at the setpoint of the t-stat. This is done for your comfort, as wide swings would be annoying.
JK
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The SilverLine 1200 windows are plain insulated glass, while the 9500 series have low-E glass. I am guessing that the 9500's (about 30% more expensive +/-) carry the energy star rating.
You can be mad at the builder, but if there aren't any regulations requiring the builder to use a window that meets a certain rating, then it is hard to expect them to use anything better than what is required.
I am doing a major addition on my house, and all my windows are Marvins, at an average cost of $450 / window. I could get Silverline
1200's in the same size for about $100 each. A builder isn't going to do this, since they are trying to make money on the house, where I am trying to make something that I will be proud to live in for the next 20 years.JK
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Even a 100$ window should not have noticable air leaking in from the channel where the window slides up and down, Im sure there is a good air infiltration rating published for them at silverline, the question is whether they meet the rating and if the install is an issue, defects occur but can the HO figure it out. R or U value is mainly for glass in this case, and would not be a part of an air leakage rating . If he calls different manufacturers they will say he should not feel air comming in at 10-20mph winds, i did. He has to find ratings and do research to figure it out. I went through this and Pella replaced seals on several new windows for free.
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Even if I found what the air infiltration rate should be of the window, I have no idea how to test it.
After doing a bit of investigation this weekend (since it was
55degrees out), I think I might have found the issue. There is a slit on the outside of the window at the bottom of the casing that is not caulked. I belive it is not caulked to allow water to seep out. This looks like it would allow air to enter the side cavities. I don't think I want to caulk the outside casing since I would want water to drain, but I think it would be safe to caulk the inside of the cavity. I'll have to do more research tonight. I'm going to take leaf blower to different areas of the window and see where its getting in.
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Although they have not gotten back to me on the exact model of Silverline's, their spec list calls for "Energy efficient double pane- low e vinyl windows".
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Let the window co tell you whats wrong, let the builder fix it. If it has a infiltration rating its a good enough window where you should not feel air comming in with under maybe 40 mph wind gusts
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Oh... I'm sure the window company will say that nothing is wrong with it.
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