I just replaced my well pressure switch. Again. Ants had causes arcing
and burned up the contacts.
I DAGS for "ant proof pressure switch" but no useful results. Anyone know
I did find suggestions to put moth balls inside the switch...does anyone
have first hand knowledge of how effective that is at keeping ants out?
On 9/22/2014 9:11 AM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Thinking about the problem, I'm having difficulty finding a clearly
downside to wrapping the switch with Glad Wrap or Saran Wrap.
Maybe even smearing some Wasp Spray on the outside of the box? Have you
ever noticed that if you hit an area with wasp/hornet spray (like a roof
vent on the garage) the little buggers NEVER come back? Had a huge
colony of them under one of the vents. Hit it with just a little bit of
the spray from inside the garage about ten years back. They have never
On 09/22/2014 9:51 AM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
Yours must be the "give it up easily" variety... :)
The yellow jacket wasps here are back rebuilding often within a few days
at the outside in their mostest-favoritest places (under the north of
the two garages door in the south end corner is a particularly favorite
spot it seems). I've taken care of it at least four times this year alone.
Just lucky, I guess. Never really gave it a thought until I zapped them
in these particular locations. Never had a problem with the original
vents and then when I had the garage reroofed they put in new vents.
They make for easy observation and the only reason I noticed the
permanence of the "cure" was that I kept watching for them to return and
start dropping their crap on the Corvette parked below!<g>
I don't know about an "ant proof" pressure switch, but what about simply
wrapping your entire pressure switch with fiberglass window screen
material so the ants can't get into it?
Another option might be to treat your pressure switch the same way they
treat Elm trees to protect them against Dutch Elm Disease in Winnipeg.
Dutch Elm disease is a disease that infects Elm trees and it's spread by
a small beetle that lives in the ground, but climbs up the bark of an
Elm tree to lay it's eggs in the soft tissue (leaves and small stems) of
Elm trees. The trick to eradicating the disease is to stop those
beatles from climbing up the trunk of the tree.
To do that, they wrap the tree trunk with fiberglass insulation with the
aluminum radiant reflective material on the back of the insulation so
that the fiberglass is against the rough bark and the aluminum radiant
reflective backing is facing outward. Then they smear a product called
"Tanglefoot" all over that aluminum radiant reflective material.
Tanglefoot is a really sticky goo that never dries up. The beetles that
spread Dutch Elm disease can't crawl through the fiberglass so they try
to crawl over the barrier and end up with their legs helplessly stuck in
the Tanglefoot. The crows then land on the bark of the trees and eat
the still alive beetles out of the Tanglefoot. Not only does that
prevent the beetle from laying it's eggs, it greatly reduces the number
of beetles that are infecting Elm trees here in Winnipeg.
I'm thinking you could do a similar thing to make your pressure switch
inaccessible to ants.
A big fly strip, iow. Hadn't heard of that ploy; sounds at least promising.
You have data on how wide the insulation strip has to be to be effective
and anything on the "goo"? I'd be willing to try and see what happens.
I'm afraid that out here the problem will be that the goo gets so much
sand/dirt from the interminable KS wind it'll just pave the goo and
they'll have a road anyway, but wouldn't know how bad that would be
I remember that stuff on elm trees in KCK in the early 40s. It was a band
maybe 2 1/2 + 3" wide, dark brown, applied directly to the trunk about
5'-6' up. It was always sticky but less so with time, never saw it
I read that moth balls inside the holes dug by carpenter bees is good,
but then the holes are sealed with something.
With access to air, moth balls will disappear in ?? six months?
Other than that, I can't help.
But I do want to point out that you're worried about your pump, but no
concern for the ants that are dying. As local president of the ASPCA,
American Society for Prevention of Cruelty to Ants, I must object.
You should give them 30 days notice by certified mail, and then have the
sheriff remove them .
If you don't want to deal with government,
there is always the Society for Preservation
of Anthills Greater Homes Everywhere Termites
Too International. And their sister organization
Mothers Everywhere All Together Behind Ants
Living Limited Systems.
I know it's a year later if I saw the date right. Are the ants in question
rasberry crazy ants, or fire ants.
rasberry crazy ants are a pain. They invaded Houstons NASA grounds over the
last few years.
They take out my well 3 times a year. Well I tries silicon last year. It wo
rked for a long time but the problem is then moisture builds up over time a
nd takes out the points. lol I did keep my well going for a year this time.
So I will deal with once a year changing of points the 3 times a year.
Seal the bottom holes of the switch box. Seal the hole between the switch
box and the pump but not to much or you will mess with the stuff in the pu
mp. You just want to block the hole. Seal around the bottom edge with silic
on on the switch box. Put the cap on and tighten down. Put silicon where yo
ur wires come into the box on the side. Do not get any silicon on the point
s during the sealing. Good luck!!!!!
If it's the same ants, this problem has been seen as far north of Dallas.
Good luck. I'm still looking for a better fix to the problem.
On Thu, 16 Jul 2015 09:45:35 -0700 (PDT), email@example.com wrote:
Get it up away from the ground. I built a little enclosure for my well
equipment that is 4' off the ground. Those problems went away.
If you do get bugs in that enclosure, squirt some Spectracide Ant
Shield around the inside. It does a great job.
On Thu, 16 Jul 2015 10:44:40 -0700 (PDT), firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Put a weatherproof box en where it comes out of the ground and pipe it
up to a higher location with Gray PVC conduit It is also a good idea
to put some duct seal (electrical grade putty) in the pipes so the
ants can't use that as a tunnel to get up there.
Down here we end up with 2 pumps, the one down in the well and another
one that feeds the house so my enclosure contains the second pump and
all of my electrical stuff, bladder tanks etc.
They will last about 10 times as long if you can get them out of the
I don't know about other places but Amdro stopped working here 20
years ago. They just will not eat it.
It was really aimed at fire ants anyway. Some other types of ants
would eat it but not for long. Their successors figured out it wasn't
We have been pretty successful knocking down fire ants but the ones
that took their place are harder to kill and far more invasive. I miss
the fire ants.
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