pool pump

[John P.. Bengi]

Where is the economy in replacing wallpaper and multi cases of cleaner to remove all the mould from the corners of the rooms?

[nicksanspam]

Mold won't form below 60% RH.

Nick

[John P.. Bengi]

[nicksanspam]

Learn more physics. Why would the walls have condensation if the room air has less than 60% RH and it's warmer outdoors?

Nick

[Rich256]

He keeps coming back with this same subject. He needs to spend one summer in Yuma to prove his theories. Until he comes back with test results I will ignore him.

[John P.. Bengi]

Because at night time the walls cool down and condense water like any other surface.

Get a brain and learn to think past your ignorance.

tit for tat?

[John P.. Bengi]

Never has any figure or cites to back his little snips and snipes.

50% troll

[nicksanspam]

People in Arizona don't seem to worry much about mold.

The RH has to be over 60% for 2 weeks to form it.

Nick

[John P.. Bengi]

Arizona has low humidity. Not really a good example

Pe>

[nicksanspam]

It's an excellent climate for evaporative cooling.

Nick

[Abby Normal]

Lol, are you still trying to re-invent pyschrometrics Nick?

Is this the wetted floor below or the 'inverted Pool of Pine' above?

I met a friend of yours today, you have quoted him before as saying "60 is close enough to 100 for me"

[m Ransley]

Nicks classics

" humidify your house by keeping your basement floor wet with a hose"

" Remove steam radiator vents for free humidity"

and 5689 more on google, now watch nick jump in to defend himself.

[nicksanspam]

No. Just trying to reinvent cool towers and swamp coolers :-) I'd really like to see someone try out some of these indoor evaporative schemes. No word from the U AZ profs, nor SBSE.

Dunno what you mean by that. Wetting the floor seems like a good idea in the southwest, with smart controls. Store coolth in a slab...

Drew Gillett? :-) I wonder what he's up to.

Nick

[Abby Normal]

It still sounds as though you are wetting a slab and or weting a ceiling above, and plan on using low rate exhaust which will not work.

Mr. G is putting on a photvoltaic seminar alond with the florida solar energy center down here. Listening to their philosphies I figured he would have to know you.

[e-mail] wrote:

[nicksanspam]

Dampening...

I disagree. You might too, if you think outside the swamp cooler box.

I've never seen Drew use a calculator. As a Professional Engineer, he has a "mathematical license," like poetic license :-)

You can read some of our Solar Today stories at

Nick

[Abby Normal]

Your dampened slab cools the earth beneath it.

You need the high airflow, as the evaporative cooling process follows a constant wetbulb line. You are sensibly heating and humidifing the house with your train of thought. You can't program this one in BASIC, you have to plot it.

[e-mail] wrote:

[nicksanspam]

But it's a good insulator, esp under a vapor barrier.

No. Think outta that swamp cooler box!

Nonsense. Of course you can, with a Clausius-Clapeyron approximation.

Nick

[Abby Normal]

I have argued many times that mold needs a wet spot to get started, it does not spontaneously generate by extracting moisture directly from the air.

It is not so much the RH of the air, it is the humidity of the food source.

[Abby Normal]

The greatest heat loss from a swimming pool is evaporation.

The water evaporating draws the majority of its heat from the water that is left behind. Your evaporating water cools the slab and humidifies the indoor air.

Heat external to the residence, is evaporating a good portion of the water. The heat to evaporate is not all coming from the room air.

Evaporative Cooling is an adiabiatic process where the wet bulb is constant.

Your scheme does not follow a constant wet bulb. Your constant exhaust directly adds sensible heat to the room air.

Then you use ceiling fans to try and blow down the warm air, to be cooled from contact with the slab.

You are trying to make the people live inside of a swamp cooler that does not work. You would be giving Rube Goldberg an allergy :)

You need to work out your scheme and plot it on a chart. I have pointed out to you before, with high latent loads and low SHR ratios, that cooling and dehumidying air can not always be down in a single process. You need to over cool air and then reheat, using much more energy than the difference in enthalpies of the starting and ending points calculate out as.

Clausius Claperon does not describe the adiabiatic conversion of sensible heat into latent heat.

[Abby Normal]

I dare you to plot and prove what you calculate. Scan it as a jpeg and give a link on your site.

Plot the process on a pyschrometric chart, should be a simple matter to be able to plot and use the standrard pyschrometric equations to back up your goldbergesque calculations.