Pool light question

The code requires conduit, either red brass (not used for decades) or Rigid Nonmetallic Conduit (gray PVC) There would be no way to replace or even install a light in a wet niche without it. Typically there is an unspliced STOW cord going from the sealed light assembly to the elevated junction box somewhere near the edge of the pool deck through this flooded conduit. There will also be an insulated #8 bonding wire in there that bonds the niche to the equipotential pool grid. (all metal within 5' of the water) The connection to the niche is "potted" in epoxy or other listed compound.

Most of the manufacturers want you to replace the gasket too.

Not knowing precisely what you have currently, I would suggest checking out Amazon. For example, here is a

I wonder if those are dimmable?

No idea, you could post that question on Amazon.

Reading the description, I doubt it. You select the color by flipping the power on and off

I think they are lying about their light output.

I've not seen a 20 watt led capable of producing the same light output as a 300 watt halogen.

RSC = Recessed single contact

I doubt you will have any luck finding a LED replacement for a 300w halogen T3 RSC bulb. That seems like quite an odd duck for a for a pool light.

If I were in your position, I would identify the Light fixture currently in your pool and see if I could find, on eBay or Amazon, a replacement fixture that would fit your existing niche and that would accept an LED bulb. I just can't imaging pissing away that much power for a single pool illumination light bulb.

Depending upon your current light niche, I am finding quite a few fixtures for $100 - $150. I am now going to bow out and leave any further detective work up to you, good luck.

I happened across this interesting looking product from one of the big names in the pool business. I have no idea what it would cost you from a discount house.

_Approximate_ values are:

incandescents = 20 lumens/watt

halogens = 25 lumens/watt

LEDs and T5 fluorescents = 100 lumens per watt

While I realize that no one has ever been killed by a properly installed pool light,

I'd still try to find a 12 volt pool light that would totally remove the shock risk.

I thought you passed away?

Thanks for clarifying that for him. I filter out all posts from Googlegroups, so I would never have seen his question.

Just use armoured cable, like the cable used to supply the house with power. I've used normal flex before, but it rots or gets eaten by something.

Another nym shift, another attempt to get around people's filters.

That would drain your pool. The pool light conduit is flooded by pool water.

Not the bit where the electrical connections go.

The conduit goes directly into the wet niche and the cord to the lamp runs through the flooded conduit. That is why the junction box has to be elevated above the water line. There is pool water in the conduit.