Point Gap for older B&S engine

In the absence of other information, use a matchbook cover as a feeler gauge and I bet it'll work just fine!

Dan

whoa.. that's gonna take some seriiously high voltage to bridge that gap. .025 inches is proabably more like it.

I think you may find that .020 is about right.

RJ

oops. that what I meant. forgot the decimal.:0

I don't think a one inch point gap will work. :-) Usually .020 gap will do, if I remember from 35 years ago. 294628 used to be the part # for the points on a Briggs. Another forgotten part number would get you the little phenolic plunger that pushes the points. There is a line around the plunger that indicates when it is worn down and needs replacing. While turning the engine, if the line disappears into the block's bearing boss, then replace the plunger rod, as it affects the engines timing events. Also, the first two digits in the engine number represent cubic inches displacement. End of

RJ

Voltage doesn't "bridge" the gap. The OPENING of the points collapses the coil's field, causing it to fire the plug. The gap in this case determines ignition timing, and also point dwell, which determines coil saturation, which affects coil output.

RJ

Better change that mm to inches too! Greg

Dirt and I are exactly the same age.

My "Small Engines Service Manual" says that the 130000 series has a 2

John

You're right - I was thiniking plug gap.

Been .020 inches for everything I've ever done on B and S.

Plug gap is 025 or 030, can't remember.

I have that engine on a rototiller bought in '78. The book says the point gap is 0.020" If you need any more info, email me.