I need to replace the washers in my shower handle and am wondering how
to get to the washer. There doesnt seem to be a small screw holing
the scution cap on, just caulk. There is a cap that is on the very
end of the handle that I assume comes off as well. There is seperate
H and C and they leak when on.
On Fri, 1 Jan 2010 17:30:49 -0800 (PST), thebigguy
Pop the cap off, take out the screw and then cut the caulk around
""scution".... won't matter the order as long as the H or C is done
first with the water off.
IOW, take the cap off the handle, remove it and go from there.
Report back here with difficulties.
Have no idea what you specifically have but for one type, a Price Pfister:
Assuming you must remove the handle before the escutcheon comes off.
Remove the handle cap by prying off.
Remove the screw. May be easier said than done. Could be frozen
Pull the handle off. These can be a bear if frozen with
deposits. Borrow or buy a handle puller.
Cut the caulk around the escutcheon with a razor. It then unscrews off.
Probably on a threaded piece of plastic.
If it leaks out of the handle ONLY when it's on then your problem is
located at the blue arrow.
If it drips when shut off, the problem is at the red arrow. Entire
faucet stem must be removed from to wall to replace the washer.
If I were you I would price a new stem vs repairing. They can be as
little as 8 bucks depending on what you have. To me, if it costs that
little it isn't worth trying to fix. It'll probably leak again shortly.
I used to fix them,
then I got smart and just started replacing the stem,
then I got smarter when I found (via this NG) the whole rebuild
kit is $35. Used to even come with the deep socket faucet wrench
Of course, your brand and installation will determine good options.
Yep. Good to mention.
And I'll further mention that on a rare occasion if the wrench steps are
too long it may be necessary to cut the wrench. The tip can hit the
back of the inside of the supply elbow in the wall. Warned about it but
it never actually happened to me.
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On Sat, 2 Jan 2010 13:10:23 -0800 (PST), thebigguy
What others said.
Turn off the water supply
Close the tub drain (or tape it) so you don't drop the cap into the
Remove the stem cap by prying it off (tip of a utility knife blade
behind it) or small screwdriver.
Remove the screw and the escutcheon may just slip off after caulk is
As mentioned, a whole new stem may be better.
Some stems are left/right (?) so don't get the wrong ones. Good luck.
Looks rough there. I hope that isn't caulk where the faucet stem goes
into the escutcheon. Just an FYI. Generally when I caulk the escutcheon
to wall I only do it from 7 to 5 (on a clock). Idea is that if water does
get behind there it will at least seep out the bottom. Don't count on it
though since the escutcheon edge sits pretty flush.
If you choose to replace the stem, of course bring it with you. There may
be markings on it to ID it. For instance, I've seen, looking closely, a
PF on Price Phister's.
Oh, yea. Think I forgot that little detail of Oren's about turning off
the water :-)
I go 360 around them without a problem. Same for the shower pipe
The tub spout is another bowl of beans. The spout has a small hole at
6 o'clock (near the set screw) for drainage back into the tub. If this
is caulked all the way around, water will leak back into the wall.
Wouldn't question 7-5 or 360 is better or worse than the other.
Exactly. And that's not necessairly easy on an escutcheon. No notch
because you don't know where it's gonna stop tight. I've fitted them,
removed, made a notch then installed permanently. Probably a waste of
tiem...except for the warm-fuzzy.
The cap in knurled...the spout needs help too because the diverter
valve doesnt completely shut off water to the spout when the thing is
up. Thanks for all the info though...I assume the spout is threaded
on and will turn off?
OK here is the pic
Looks to me like American Standard.
I believe the escutions do unscrew, thin wire or dental floss might be best
to cut the caulk. Heat from a heat gun might also help. On some of these
the H & C buttons actually are threaded in, the threaded buttons usually
have a knurl. Hard to see in your photo.
Some of these have fixed seats rather than replaceable ones and if the seat
is bad you need to resurface the seat with a little cutter. Once you have
the stem out look in the hole. Removable seats will have a square or hex
hole for the seat wrench.
About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
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