We're about to do 5 rooms of Pergo in the house and have a few
questions. We have the first room about ready to go, did self
leveling floor coating and all cleaned. Have the vapor barrier all
ready, too. We have found hints and info on how to lock the panels
together and things like that, but we were wondering if there was a
good site saying how to best cut around doors and closet opening,
where to start with an entrance door (don't want the locking lip left
on the door opening and also don't want a very narrow piece in the
door opening for sure) and things like that.
Does anyone have a good link to get info on things like that?
Thanks but we actually just watched that about 10 minutes before
posting my question. That is a great video to show how to lock the
panels together but we're looking for more of a "This is where you
need to lay the first panel down" or "This is the best way to lay the
transition piece in a main door entranceway" kind of info :O/
Yes, the Pergo site.
Pay special attention of _when_ you need to use _T_ molding at doorways,
always use a _T_ molding when a doorway is under 4ft. Never start at a
doorway either. Also, your layout is critical, just like with tile. Nobody
can give you an answer for this, you need to figure out _your_ layout. I
don't know if this is on their site, but avoid having a _sliver_ of
flooring 2" or less. You _need_ to figure this out with your layout.
I did take their course in Raleigh NC, for being an endorsed installer.
It's been probably 6-7 yrs.
I've seen people reply in threads b/4, they would fire a installer putting
in _T_ molding at doorways. Unfortunately for them, Pergo warranty insists
on it in doorways under a 4 ft opening. The reason being is different rooms
have different humidity & temps. The flooring contracts/expands at
different rates, same goes for closets.
Enjoy your project.
A few suggestions:
* Measure carefully to get the planks to come out the way you want
them. There's no other solution.
* Remove the baseboard, then replace it after the floor is down. You
can skip putting on quarter-round that way.
* Consider putting an expansion joint in the middle of every doorway.
You have to have expansion joints every so far anyway.
* Undercut door jambs instead of trying to fit the planks to the
molding. Put a Pergo scrap and a layer of padding down next to the
jamb, then lay your hand saw flat on the Pergo. This spaces everything
nicely so you can slide planks under the door jamb.
The first thing I'd do is make absolutely sure Pergo is what you want
to install in 5 rooms. Of course, everything depends on the house,
what similar houses in the area have, your future intentions, etc. I
would certainly use Pergo in certain applications, like finishing a
basement office, etc. But given all the labor and that you can get
some decent engineered or total wood products for not all that much
more, I think in many cases going with real wood makes more sense.
I've never seen anyone advertise a home for sale noting that it has
It will be bragged about in new construction because the default is sheet
vinyl and mid-grade carpeting. A good laminate IS a step up from that. I
would only mention it when selling an existing home if the buyer had dogs.
It is a great surface for that, second only to ceramic or stone.
The home is in west central Florida, home of burning sun, salt water
and scratching sand. We have shopped around heavily and the BIG point
against real wood floor is scratching, staining and discoloration from
sun. We have been in homes with real wood whenever anything was slid
on the flooring it left it's mark, permanently. When part of the
floor got direct sun, it discolored. When something was spilled on it
or it got wet with salt water (yeah we fish, jet ski, swim and do lots
in the salt water) it discolored.
Even when shopping we walked by the real wood, I reached up to the
sample pieces and in most I could make a pretty deep mark with my
fingernail. With pets and kids around and all that comes with having
an active home, Pergo might not be "prime" but it's looks a boatload
better then real wood that is scratched and marred by every day living
here in the sunshine state. We're not remodeling a show home, we're
remodeling a functional home that will more likely have a mountain
bike run thru the house into the back yard then a cocktail party. We
want a floor that will last with low maintenance, easy install and
good resilience to life (scratches, spills, stains, sun, sand, etc).
Oh yeah, we put diving boards on basements in Florida and call them
Thanks for the help!
On Mon, 21 Dec 2009 16:03:21 -0800 (PST), infiniteMPG
Older homes in Florida had Terrazzo floors finished on the slab. You
couldn't tear that stuff up. Too late now, but staining the concrete
slab would cover all the things you mentioned , basically, an
occasional sealing of the stain.
If you find a product brand you like, ask to open the box for
instructions and check them out.
I wonder if anyone these days puts terrazzo in new homes. We have it in
our kitchen, baths and hallway. After I stripped, sealed and shined it,
it is beautiful....redo that about every 2-3 years, if I'm in the mood.
Tile in other rooms....I wouldn't have wood or pergo right now, esp.
near beach. The other units in our condo have tiled over their terrazzo
because it looks like crap if it isn't decently maintained. The only
thing that might harm our tile is dropping red wine or maybe some oily
stuff on the grout....damp mop once in a while. Tile on a slab might be
brutal with small children or elderly people subject to falls. Terrazzo
is very slippery if it gets wet.
You don't cut around doors - you undercut the door frames and slide the
solid flooring in the gap. You can get an undercut saw at the box store for
about ten dollars. Much better is a multifunction tool. Fein makes one for
about $350 or you can get the Harbor Freight model for less than forty
You WILL end up with bizzare widths somewhere and a doorway is probably the
best place since you'll usually have a transition piece between the doorway
and the hall. The alternative is a narrow strip on the far wall from the
door. This makes the room look like it was set on top of an existing floor
and the far wall merely a portable divider.
You say you have the first room about ready; did you remove the baseboards?
If not, I strongly recommend it. The flooring job will be easier, you can
repair and repaint the baseboards more easily, and, best of all, you can
avoid those hideous quarter-round trim pieces.
One can also undercut baseboards if needed...we had it done when our
liv. and din. rooms were tiled...so glad we did it. There is no
quarter-round, just the baseboard, and no sign that they have been cut
(done just after they had been painted :o). Probably different issues
with Pergo as to evenness of the cut and how to conceal it. If a
quarter round is installed, then it is easier. I had proposed tearing
off all of our baseboards because I had seen neighbors condos with same
layout and who had tiled up to the bb and grouted around door
The guy who did the undercuts was a sub to the flooring contractor who
installed the tile....it is all the guy does.
I use a pair of diagonal pliers. From the backside of the BB - grasp
and pry them out. If they happen to snap off, then a snip with the
pliers cutting the nail off.
Often you never see any damage of the front, no "real" holes to fill.
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