I have vinyle shutters that are a hunter green color and badly faded. My wi
fe wants to paint them black. Can this be done and it last okay? I read som
ewhere that you are not supposed to go from a light color ot a dark one. So
mething about it building too much heat and causing the paint to peel??
On Monday, May 5, 2014 9:27:40 AM UTC-5, Don Phillipson wrote:
That is an expensive proposition considering I need 12 of them. My only other thought was to make some myself out of pine and prime/paint them.
(My current ones are plastic of some sort. Not sure if vinyle fiberglass or what.)
On Monday, May 5, 2014 10:54:31 AM UTC-4, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
I'm not so sure there is a big difference in the heat absorbed by
green versus black, at least not enough that it's going to make a
difference. Modern paints perform across a wide temperature range.
If it were me, I'd spray them with a good quality paint.
On Monday, May 5, 2014 10:13:36 AM UTC-5, trader_4 wrote:
Would you use spray paint or an oil based enamel brushed on? Actually, now that I think about it, I have a large air compressor and a spray gun. Could I use that to spray enamel out of a a gallon paint can from Lowes?
The shutters on my house are 36 years old. They wre first painted when
about 6 years and have been painted a few more times. They are holding
the paint well and will get painted again, probably next year.
As for the heat, I don't think it will make much difference on a
shutter, but a door behind a full glass storm door can get het enough to
Yes you can paint vinyl. People paint vinyl siding to change the colour
of their house all the time. Vinyl siding manufacturers recommend that
the homeowner not paint the vinyl siding a darker colour than the
Window manufacturers recommend that you do not paint their windows, but
the reason is not because paint won't adhere to vinyl. It's because
their windows are normally made of WHITE vinyl to keep the vinyl as cool
as possible. Any other colour would result in the vinyl absorbing more
light and becoming warmer. Vinyl has a wide "glass transition
temperature", which means that it goes from a hard brittle cold plastic
to a soft easily distorted warm plastic over a wide temperature range,
and so even a small change in the temperature of the plastic can result
in a large decrease in it's stiffness and hardness. The manufacturers
know that keeping the vinyl cool will minimize damage to the window from
the vinyl stretching and distorting under it's own weight.
The spray paint that's made for plastic is called "Fusion", but I'm not
sure who makes it. Any home center should sell it.
So, tell your better half that there's no problem painting the shutters,
but she has to pick a colour that's no darker than the Hunter Green the
shutters were originally. And, I would use an exterior latex paint to
paint them, OR the Fusion paint that comes in a rattle can.
Your paint may not adhere but I painted two vinyl shutters on the front
of our office in 1995 and because of them fading I repainted them back
in 2011. I think that 16 years without pealing is pretty good. I didn't
use special paint for plastic, just plain ole spray paint in a rattle can.
About "100% Acrylic" paint.
Most people that throw that term around don't really know what it
In North America, over 90 percent of the latex paint that's made is made
from one of two different kinds of plastics.
1. Polymethyl methacrylate - which you probably know better as
"Plexiglas" or "Lucite" or "Perspex", depending on which chemical
company made it. In the paint industry, latex paints and primers that
consist of gazillions of tiny hard spheres of this kind of plastic
suspended in a solution that is mostly water are referred to as "100%
Acrylic" paints, or paints with "100% Acrylic" resins.
2. Polyvinyl Acetate - which you probably know better as "PVA" or white
wood glue. In the paint industry, paints and primers that consist of
gazillions of tiny hard spheres of this kind of plastic suspended in a
solution that is mostly water are referred to as "Vinyl Acrylic" paints,
or paints with "Vinyl Acrylic" resins.
Note that there is no such thing as a "50% Acrylic" paint or a "75%
Acrylic" paint. It's either "100% Acrylic" or "Vinyl Acrylic" or
The problem with this naming system is that people presume that if a
paint is 100% Acrylic, there's no point spending more on a higher priced
paint because you can never get higher than 100%, right? Really, the
wording "100% Acrylic" on a can of paint means about as much as the
wording "100% Cow" does on a package of meat. It tells you the kind of
plastic the paint is made of, but that's all. You don't know if you're
getting prime rib or dog food.
Generally, "100% Acrylic" latex paints are more expensive than "Vinyl
Acrylic" paints, and they:
a) have better resistance to acidic and alkaline substrates like fresh
b) have better UV resistance
c) dry to harder and marr resistant films,
d) stick better to damp or moist surfaces, and
e) don't exhibit any "blocking" which is when a paint remains slightly
sticky after it's fully dry.
Essentially ALL exterior latex paints will be made from polymethyl
methacrylate because of it's better UV resistance and the fact that the
film doesn't soften up and lose it's adhesion if it gets wet like
polyvinyl acetate paints and primers.
The problem with polyvinyl acetate paints and primers is that they have
lousy Alkaline resistance, lousy UV resistance and they lose their
hardness and start cracking and peeling if they get wet. Also, they
have poor "blocking" resistance in that an apparantly dry paint film
will still retain some residual stickiness.
If you ever look in someone's bathroom and see that the paint is
cracking and peeling above the shower, the problem is almost always
attributed to poor surface preparation prior to painting, but that's a
misdiagnosis of the problem. It's the fact that a cheap PVA paint was
used in the bathroom.
Also, if you've ever had doors and windows that tend to "stick" when
they're closed, the usual cause of that is a PVA paint being used on
them. When a door painted with a PVA paint closes and presses gently
againts a frame painted with PVA paint too, the two will stick to one
another causing problems. Again, the fix is to paint over the "vinyl
acrylic" paint with a "100% Acrylic" paint.
There are literally hundreds of different "100% Acrylic" resins used to
make primers, paints, floor finishes, nail polish for the ladies, grout
sealers and water based "varnishes". And, there are hundreds more
"vinyl acrylic" resins used to make mostly primers and budget priced
interior latex paints. So, specifying a "100% Acrylic" paint is no more
precise than specifying "cow" when you order a hamburger.
On Monday, May 5, 2014 7:07:18 AM UTC-5, email@example.com wrote:
wife wants to paint them black. Can this be done and it last okay? I read s
omewhere that you are not supposed to go from a light color ot a dark one.
Something about it building too much heat and causing the paint to peel??
So the consensus is that a latex is better than an enamel to repaint a viny
le shutter? Mine are really chalky and have been on the house since 1998. I
wonder what a pressure washer would do for them?
On Tuesday, May 6, 2014 9:09:04 AM UTC-4, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
y wife wants to paint them black. Can this be done and it last okay? I read
somewhere that you are not supposed to go from a light color ot a dark one
. Something about it building too much heat and causing the paint to peel??
nyle shutter? Mine are really chalky and have been on the house since 1998.
I wonder what a pressure washer would do for them?
You could try it and find out. They should be washed thoroughly before
painting anyway. Also, if you want to spray paint them with
a can, I think Bob Haller pointed out that there are spray cans of paint
available specifically for plastic. What any difference in formulation
might be, IDK. But HD, etc carries them and they are only like $3 a can.
You could try that on one and if it works, you have a reasonable, easy
Most people would use an exterior latex paint on your outdoor vinyl
shutters, but any paint will work.
A pressure washer will remove any existing loose paint from your
shutters, but won't do anything for chaulked plastic. Plastics are
coloured by adding tiny coloured particles (called "pigments") to the
plastic before it is molded into the final product, so plastics don't
just have a colour on their surface but are coloured all the way through
the plastic. That is, the plastic gets it's colour from the tiny
coloured particles that are distributed inside it very much like the
raisins in raisin bread, not just on it's surface (like a paint). If
your plastic has a "white-ish" discolouration to it, it's because the
surface of the plastic is rough, and is scattering light. Your eye sees
scattered light as the colour "white", and that's where the whitish
discolouration of your shutters comes from. This is precisely the
reason why clowds, water falls, snow banks and the head on a beer are
all white in colour even though nothing inside any of these things is
actually white in colour. It's also the reason why when you scratch
something, the scratch itself will be WHITE in colour.
A pressure washer won't make the surface of your shutters smooth again,
and therefore won't remove the white discolouration that's on them.
Hope this helps.
If the white discolouration of your shutters is due to their rough
surface (due to deterioration from UV light), then it occurs to me that
you may be able to eliminate that white discolouration by eliminating
the rough surface of your vinyl.
Take a wet sponge and wipe down your worst shutter to see if the white
discolouration disappears as long as the surface of the shutter is wet
(and therefore smooth).
If so, you should be able to give your shutters a permanent "wet look"
by painting them with a clear coat (like Minwax's "Polycrylic") instead
of repainting them a different colour.
I just don't know if Minwax's Polycrylic latex "varnish" is suitable for
use outdoors or not.
But, this at least gives you another alternative to repainting the
shutters another colour.
PS: Those infomercials you see on TV for getting rid of scratches on
cars and restoring the white discoloured plastic on cars are based
entirely on getting rid of the rough surface and replacing it with a
smooth one. Fresnel's law says that the amount of light reflected off a
surface is proportional to the ration of the refractive indices on each
side of an interface squared. So, by covering a rough surface with a
clear solid material, MOST of the light reflected is reflected off the
air/smooth solid interface and only a tiny amount is reflected off the
smooth solid/rough solid interface. Since very much more light is
reflected from the air/smooth solid iterface, the light you see behaves
very much like it would if the rough solid were smooth. And, this is
how these infomercial products get rid of scratches and restore the
appearance of roughened plastic. Those products wouldn't work if the
scratch were deep enough to go right through the coloured coat into the
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