Which is why we need some decent "sanding surfacer" paints. Such are
common in autobody paints and relatively common in marine paints.
Best I ever found was an InterLux paint that had been formulated
especially for surfacing woods such as luan. Very heavy bodied, dried
fast and sanded like a dream...you could make a baby's ass out of
anything. Unfortunately it was very expensive. Even more
unfortunately, it doesn't seem to be available any more.
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
I think you're talking about Interlux's Pre-Kote. Great stuff. In
general, any marine product is going to be far superior to residential
Pre-Kote has microspheres (I know them as microballons, but same thing)
which are a staple of the fiberglass industry. As you said, the stuff
is pricey, but if you value your time above $20/hour, it makes sense.
The paint is out there.
As others have said, oil based enamels will give better smooth
finishes. You might consider trying a black foam roller cover.
These will imitate good spray work when used properly. One of the
better brands is Whizz. Another trick is to add Floetrol or other
conditioner to the latex paint to aid in flowing out brush marks.
(top posted for your convenience)
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
"Matt" <"No Email"> wrote in message
Now that everyones beat you with the highbrow techniques, this is what
your looking for being your a Lowes kind of guy (which is most of us).
Take the door off and lay it flat. Sand the door and roll on some
primer on the long surfaces. Then brush the long sufaces with a dampend
high quality brush. A dry brush will grab the paint. Then roll on a
coat of acryilc paint followed by brushing as well. Wait a day and
apply a second coat like the first one. No, it won't look like the oil
based finish but it will make for a nice interior door.
One trick I've used is adding a extender to the paint. ModernMasters
makes an extender for acrylic paints for faux finishing to prolong the
drying time. It works awesome. I used it on gloss painted crown
moulding with top notch results.
I would like to thank all of you for your responses. They
have greatly helped me out. Just to clarify things. The
paint is Semi-gloss and the door is one of those door slabs
that have holes cut out and hinges already attached to it.
The door comes primed out of the box.
Thanks for your time and responses, sorry I didn't respond
Matt who...? Oh right! The OP. ;)
In future, give more information rather than less as far as materials,
intentions, budget, etc. It'll help others to determine what's best in
their experience and opinion without guessing.
As far as paint, it's one of those things that, in general, the more it
costs and the more the can weighs, the better the paint. That doesn't
mean go to the most expensive store, but the higher priced paint at
Lowe's is going to be better than the lower priced within a given
brand. Lowe's doesn't manufacture paint, they just rebrand the can so
the manufacturer is not competing with themselves and Lowe's can
provide a lower price without affecting the manufacturer's pricing.
The weight has to do with the cost of the ingredients - pigments and
resins weigh more than the solvent (water, oil) and are what give paint
it's durability and hiding power.
Let us know how the door turns out.
why are you lecturing him
he said acrylic paint
on interior door
i'd bet my last chickenwing he had a wooden door
we got wooden door
gallon of paint
soft brush AND an eager beaver
keep it simple...
you know why people respond to my post
because I speak the language people speak
i know deep down, dey all a bunch of tight asses
they wanna know it's fine, AND they wanna post something on the big
NOBODY POLISHES A DAMN INTERIOR DOOR WITH 4 COATS OF PRIMER AND 4
SESSIONS OF SANDING...NOBODY
he said interior door ggeeezzz
i want you to look at yourself, have a look will ya!
You've been given a tremendous amount of good advice here, some of it
perhaps more involved than it needs to be but you will still get the desired
I'd like to point out that 100% acrylic paint is much more tricky to use
properly than 100% vinyl paint. Vinyl and mixtures of vinyl and acrylic
paint are what many people refer to as "latex" paint. The word latex really
refers to a water suspension. The polymer being suspended may be different.
Acrylic paint can more easily be overbrushed than vinyl or vinyl-acrylic
paint. That means don't fiddle with it. If you are really having problems,
you might try adding a retarder like Floetrol but that will also thin the
paint. The beauty of acrylic paint is that you "flow" it on, not brush it
like an elementary school child. Don't "overwork" the brush. The paint has
levelers in it so after it is applied, it will level to an even surface
before it dries.
As far a primer is concerned, one of the best is BIN made by Zinsser.
BIN is a several pound cut of white pigmented shellac. The nice thing about
it is that in addition to its priming and stain blocking abilities, it
completely dries in about two hours enabling you to recoat or paint very
quickly. The main reason to prime in your case, after filling any nail
holes, dents, and dings and doing some finish sanding, is to provide a white
"canvas" for your paint. I have used two coats of BIN for this very reason
on some painted furniture and some sheetrock walls which had wallpaper
stripped from it. After both primer coats, I lightly sand with a fine grade
paper. Since it is shellac, it sands beautifully and it takes only 4-5
hours for both coats. Surface prep is very important for a smooth finish.
As for what type of brush, I find that synthetic brushes are best for
water based finishes and natural hair brushes are best for solvent based
finishes. A really good synthetic brush is the Chinex Takalon type. If the
surface area of the door is too much for you to handle with a brush given
your level of experience, you could try a short-nap roller, 1/4 - 1/2 inch.
It won't leave a glass smooth finish but I bet it will be very close.
With the right paint, one coat should do it. If you like, you can
gently sand and apply a second coat but keep in mind that acrylic paint
requires two weeks to fully cure hard enough to sand.
People are right when they tell you that it is easier to get a smooth
finish with oil (solvent) based paints. Oil paints do not dry as quickly as
water based paints. Once you understand how to adjust your painting
techniques for water based, especially acrylics, you would be surprised at
how smooth the finish will be.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.