In our old house I have done a lot of paint removal using a heat gun
followed by stripper. Most of our wood work had/has paint over some
kind of varnish, and this cleans up nicely.
In a few places, e.g., the master bedroom, there is paint which the
heat gun handles with something else under it which the heat gun does
NOT handle, and stripper has trouble with it, too. It is white.
It is a 1926 house. Any ideas on what this unusual (master bedroom)
paint might be, and how to best remove it?
I plan to use stripper and lots of patience and steel wool, but any
ideas about it are welcome. --Phil
Phil Munro Dept of Electrical & Computer Engin
mailto: firstname.lastname@example.org Youngstown State University
Its called pickled, mainly a pigment that allowed some grain through.
Its a nightmare to remove , and is probably a gooey mess. By the time
you total the cost it would be cheaper and nicer to rip it out and
replace it . If its Birch doubly so . Burning paint with a heat gun is
bad, as the chemicals and LEAD are vaporised . Lead poisoning has
occured from heat guns. Stripper, thinner, poly, bad for your health.
Keep a fan moving the air
Whereas in the other rooms the wood was originally varnished, in this case
it was originally painted; the varnish excluded the subsequent paint from
penetrating. The master bedroom will not turn out the same as the
clear-finished rooms, ever. I say this because the amount of sanding/wood
removal necessary to get the pigment out will result in the complete and
thoroughgoing loss of patina in the wood. Pickling at this point is one
option. Repainting will be far easier, result in a better and obviously more
Option #3:have the woodwork duplicated in the hardwood of your choice.
Birdseye maple is really nice for bedrooms.
Could be milk paint or old enamel paint. Enamel seems unlikely in a
bedroom, usually found in kitchens and baths. At least that's where
I've run into it, and it was very resistant to removal, but came off
eventually using heat, stripper and lots of elbow grease. If it's milk
paint it will not respond to chemical strippers. The method I've used
is to scrub ammonia on the paint with 0 or 00 steel wool, really
wetting the surface, letting the ammonia soak in for 5-10 minutes,
then rewetting and scrubbing. May require several applications. If it
is milk paint it won't peel off, just sort of goos and globs off.
Rinse the surface with water, and if the ammonia has darkened the wood
more than you like bleach it back with oxalic acid. It'll sand off, of
course, with a lot of effort, start with 50 grit or coarser sandpaper.
A google search on "milk paint" may give you some better/different
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.