On Monday, September 21, 2015 at 12:28:44 AM UTC-4, Tony Hwang wrote:
IDK what the actual boiling point difference is, but seems like that
could be a valid point, if the RV type has a lower boiling point.
Also, as someone else pointed out, auto antifreeze has specific
corrosion and lubricating properties that RV probably would not have.
I would think the corrosion inhibitors required might be toxic
and/or not needed in the RV product.
Someone said it would probably be OK if only a little is used.
I would disagree with that. Years ago I had a Pontiac that had
the extended life, 100K mile antifreeze in it. I took it for service
to Jiffy Lube and they topped it off with regular. It wound
up fouling, gunky up the cooling system and creating a big mess
that the dealer had to fix.
Putting RV type in a car would probably be like using cooking oil for engine oil
or at least like putting some straight weight oil without proper detergents,
additives, etc in it. If I were in some emergency situation, with no other
choice for some odd reason, I'd use it temporarily.
On Monday, September 21, 2015 at 2:14:07 PM UTC-4, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Antifreeze has corrosion inhibitors and lubricating properties.
I made the mistake once of running a car with pure water,
because I was in between repairs, waiting for a part, or whatever.
Ran it like that for a couple weeks, the thermostat froze up.
When I drained it, I was shocked at how rusty and dirty the water was.
On Sunday, September 20, 2015 at 5:28:22 PM UTC-7, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Phone Prestone because they're good with that kind of information.
RV water line antifreeze is made with propylene glycol instead
of ethylene glycol because the former is less toxic, as this
note from the CDC says:
Less toxic, not non-toxic, but at least unlike ethylene glycol:
"Large doses and unusual circumstances are necessary for the
development of propylene glycol toxicity."
"Unlike ethylene glycol, propylene glycol does not produce
nephrotoxicity [kidney failure] in humans."
Straight from the bottle, RV antifreeze is typically 25%
propylene glycol, 75% water, and that's it -- no additives to
help stop corrosion or counteract hard water.
If you have a crack in a plastic radiator tank, about the only
way to fix it well is by melting new identical plastic into the
crack because no glue or stop leak will work. The plastic is
almost always nylon with glass fibers mixed into it (radiator
supplies and GM dealers have rods of this), and you need to melt
identical nylon (there are several types) into the crack with a
hot air gun (not a regular heat gun but a pinpoint one -- Harbor
Freight sells plastic welding irons and guns, $15 - $65), soldering
iron, or woodburning iron (latter has nonstick Teflon or ceramic
coated tip). You first clean off the crack and melt a fairly deep
groove into it.
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