We used to get the little sticker on the plate. One morning I got
pulled over. Trooper noticed the lack of sticker, but the car was
registered. I had no current paperwork either. He just gave me a
Got home and found the registration paperwork just where I put it a year
earlier. It was December and maybe crappy weather so I set it aside.
After you buy the car, you register it and they give you plates.
If you want to keep your licence plate number, you have to transfer your
old plates to your new car, so you have no plates on the old car that
you're selling. (For the first time, I know my plates by heard
Kaddafi 2,3,4. That is KDF234, or 345, or 543, whatever. This was more
fun when Kaddafi was in power. .
One that I looked at, I put my plates on it and drove it about 10
minutes, including an expressway. It was the only car I ever drove with
bad acceleration. Could barely make it to 55. I didn't know a
guaranteed way to fix that. I probably told him what I didn't like
about it, and I saw it sitting in his driveway for a few more weeks.
I've also taken my plates off my car to put on the car I'm buying, just
to drive it home. But one time, I absolutely had to do an errand. the
day after I bought it. My old car probably didn't run anymore, so the
question was, Do I clean off the old plates, so they match the clean new
car, but then if I'm stopped, it will look like I went to a lot of
trouble to not get caught? Or do I leave them dirty?
I left them dirty and five blocks from my house, at a red light, a cop
pulled up behind me. By chance I'm sure. He pulled me over because
the plates were drirty and the car was clean. I showed him my license
and the bill of sale from yesterday, and he let me go. No ticket.
Come to think of it, if I cleaned the plates, how would he know my old
car was dirty? Oh well. If he stoped me for any reason and he ran
the plates, he'd be madder than when I left the plates dirty, I think.
On Thursday, September 18, 2014 11:23:14 PM UTC-4, micky wrote:
The solution to that is to get the sale agreed to, a deposit, etc
on the car you're selling *before* you get the new car. And if not,
then get new plates for the new car, which aren't that much. IMO
trying to sell a used car that prospective buyers can't test drive or
drive to a mechanic is a big problem that is likely to diminish the
price, increase the time it takes to sell, etc. Of course if you have
a car that you know has problems and that you don't want customers to
be able to check out, then taking off the plates would be to the seller's
advantage. Which is why it might be a good idea to stay away from
Yes, I am no better than my customers were. I needed an antenna amp
to replace the one that broke (inside the attic, but inside the amp
smelled a little like burning) Solidsignal.com says it has 978 of
them! Probably does have at least 200. I ended up buying the same
model I had before because it was a discounted openbox item, they said.
If it fails too, I'll only have 199 models to choose from. (So far, 2
weeks, it's working really well. I get most of DC stations again.)
If some of the food weren't on sale at the supermarket, I woudln't know
what to eat.
On Wed, 17 Sep 2014 18:26:07 -0400, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
One thing they can do, I think, is tell if the head is cracked. When I
though I blew the engine on the last car, and had to add a gallon of
water every 5 miles, more if I were going uphill. I went to a repair
shop in Asheville, NC and he put some liquid on a device that attached
to the radiator. It changed color which he said meant there were
exhaust gases in the radiator fluid. I offered but he didnt charge me.
But I've never taken a car I'm about to buy to a mechanic and I've never
regretted it. One went two years without a repair. Most went two years
with less than 100 dollars in repairs. That one in New Jersey that
wouldn't shift to 4th***. I should have noticed that (because I drive
in first, then move to second and listen for the shift, then switch to
third and listen for the shift, etc. I think this had no setting for
first and I concluded the car had only three gears. But even if I had
noticed, I would still have bought the car because it was the only full
sized convertible at any price (other than a Cadillac Eldorado t hat I
thought was too flashy for me) in 15 counties with a population of 12
million or more.
***And eventually I noticed that it got so hot under the hood that
plastic things melted.
I don't ask sellers for details about the car, because I don't want to
make liars out of them, or be mad later if I find out they lied to me.
So I don't ask and I don't get mad.
The guy selling the car above volunteered that his son was moving to
Kansas and didnt' need a car anymore. What! You don't need a car in
Kansas? I told myself that maybe he meant his new job that made him
move provided him with a car. But it was probably the gas mileage,
very low. But I had no alternative. That might have been the car I
used to move, separately, two spinet pianos. Can't do that with a small
On Thursday, September 18, 2014 11:51:23 PM UTC-4, micky wrote:
Clutch for a manual transmission, IDK, but it's probably possible to
at least some extent, eg if it's starting to slip.
BMW has a fault code in the car computer for the torque converter clutch
in the auto tranny. By monitoring abnormal changes in speed between the
engine and the tranny, seems the onboard computer system could identify
a regular clutch if it's starting to slip. I guess it wouldn't do you
much good in terms of it just being 80% through it's life though.
I recently got what is essentially the dealer computer software for
BMWs. It runs on a notebook, connects to the OBDII via a USB cable.
The things they monitor, the sophistication, is amazing. For example,
they monitor the condition of the transfer case oil, to determine if
it needs to be replaced. It's also interesting how they do things.
I've always known that the typical car computer can detect misfires on
individual cylinders. I figured they probably used knock sensors to
isolate it. But it turns out they actually do it, on BMW at least, by
so closely tracking the crankshaft speed that they can tell the slight
difference in speed at the exact moment cylinder X is supposed to fire.
And not only can they tell a total misfire, but they actually can judge
the quality of the fire, ie was it normal, didn't fire at all, or
somewhere in between.
With that software, after it finds the faults, the comnputer will
go through test procedures to help tell you what's the cause. At
one point, it said to start the car. A min later, it said to
continue the testing the car needs to be at 60C, "increasing engine
speed". And sure enough, my notebook made the car speed up from
800 RPM to 1500. First time my notebook ever did that! Having that
software is a huge plus and almost a necessity if you want to be
able to diagnose many problems today.
If this is the Ed I know, you can list them from
memory by year, brand, model, and color.
My first few:
1970 Chevrolet Nova, blue.
1974 Dodge Dart, blue.
1978 Chevrolet Chevette, Red.
1980 Dodge van, green.
1979 Dodge van, white.
Yes, I can, but ooops, I'm driving #23
1953 Mercury Monteray yellow with black top
1962 Corvair Monza white
1961 Pontiac Bonneville white
1968 Olds Vista Cruiser blue
1972 Ford LTD wagon yellow
1964 Karmen Ghia convertible, blue
1964 Pontiac LeMans white with red interior
1964 Pontiac LeMans white with blue interior
1970 Karmen Ghia coupe green
1978 Chevy Malibu, green
1980 Chevy Malibu gray
1980 Monte Carlo
1981 Olds Cutlass
1983 Olds Cutlass
1986 Olds Ciera
1983 Mercedes Benz 300D
1983 Buick Regal
1991 Buick Regal
1997 Buick Lesabre
2001 Buick LeSabre
2007 Hyundai Sonata light blue
2010 Hyundai Sonata Candy cherry red
2013 Hyundai Sonata Pacific blue
A good bit of the time I had two cars at a time. My wife drove one, but
none with stick shift.
I did plenty of fixing along the way. Some was expected from wear,
others gave out far too soon.
Most GM cars have been OK. This LeSabre was full of little problems.
First car I ever had to replace rusted out brake lines. Three of the
four window regulators went bad. I never put the back windows down
much so I propped them closed with wood sticks. Steering wheel
controls did not work. Climate control put hot air out on one side,
cold on the other. Reversible if you changed the temperature though.
Heated seat gave out after 42,000 miles, but only 2 years. GM would
not help with warranty but wanted $672 to replace the entire seat
bottom because a $12 part failed. Two sections of the rear defroster
did not work. Transmission was rebuilt at 85k. About another dozen
In eight years, Hyundai needed nothing other than normal maintenance.
No GM car has ever been so good.
On Fri, 19 Sep 2014 07:28:05 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
I agree, the insurance beef may be the worst one and running the wrong
tag is close. You are better off running without a tag if you are just
taking the car home a short ways. Just be sure you call your insurance
company and get a binder first.
If you have a fresh bill of sale and you can give them an insurance
binder number, you can talk your way out of the ticket 99% of the
time. Here is SW Florida they might not even stop you. I see cars
without tags all the time.
On Fri, 19 Sep 2014 08:48:10 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
I was referring to getting a car home that you just bought.
If it is still the other guy's car, he is the one who needs insurance.
Liability generally follows the car's owner..
If he wants to put another tag on it so you can test drive it you just
become Sargent Shultz. You know nothing. Just be sure he is in the car
so the cops have someone to arrest.
On Friday, September 19, 2014 11:57:41 AM UTC-4, email@example.com wrote:
K, the thread was about getting a used car inspected, how that
becomes difficult if it doesn't have plated, etc, so I thought
that's what you were talking about.
If you're driving it and wind up having an accident, it's going to
be hard to just claim you know nothing. Especially if there are
witnesses to it, like the other driver you just collided with.
And I disagree that the seller/owner is the only
one that needs insurance. If you're driving, have an accident, the
other party can come after both of you. And if the seller has the
min insurance or no insurance, the claim is worth pursuing, then
they will come after you. As a practical matter, you'd have to verify
that he actually has insurance at all. An insurance card doesn't
prove that it didn't lapse two weeks ago. And I would doubt many
folks with no plates on the car still have insurance on it.
On Fri, 19 Sep 2014 05:10:58 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
But I know my license plate number by heart. ;-)
I've never bought a car without driving it, on the road, not just a
driveway. They've all had fairly low mileage. One Chrysler had had
the odometer and speedometer, and it was indicated by a light or led,
and I was so proud of myself for remmebering what that light meant that
I announced I'd noticed it in front of my then-girlfriend, and alas, the
seller. Probably offended the seller who told me the next day it was
In the earliercase it was also complicated by the fact that he needed
the money before he could sell the car, because he still owed money on
it, so we had to go to the loan company and pay it off, and then he sold
it to me.
He too had a strange story. The car was driven by his teenage son
mostly, but his daughter and he and his wife all wanted to drive it.
But they had 5 cars for four people and had to sell one, so they were
selling the one they all wanted to drive. ?? I woudl sell the one
they didn't want to drive.
But it too required no repairs for 2 years.
Maybe that's why the car that didn't accelerate had no plates. And
then I put him i a corner by being willing to use my plates. Yes, you
can't accelerate to 80 in a driveway. (Even if it's illegal to drive
80, if I can get to an xway, I do it when buying a car. If a cop stops
me, I'd tell him the truth, if a car can't do 80 I shouldn't buy it.
(100 really but I don't drive that fast, even test driving.) If he
still gives me a ticket, so be it.
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