On Wed, 17 Sep 2014 06:03:50 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
I used to get broken tvs off the street in NYC and Brooklyn, fix them
and sell them. Mostly between 40 and 60 dollars. Usually spent 20 or
less for parts, and I enjoyed the fixing. Only sold them because I
didn't have space or reason to keep them all.
There were two kinds of customers, those who wanted to dicker and those
who didn't. I used to price the tv's at what was fair, but I learned
that the first kind would not pay that much. If I did not come down,
they would leave. So I raised the price on every TV from then on by 10
or 15 dollars, and then came down that much. One guy agreed to the
higher price and after I walked with him the block and a half to the
subway, I gave him the 10 dolllars anyhow.
One woman bought three of them and said she was going to sell them to
people in her n'hood for more. I don't think they were worth more,
She paid with two 100-dollar biils. For some reason I though they were
counterfeit. I guess I just didn't trust her. The teller at the
bank said, Well, if they are phoney, just deduct the amount from your
income tax. I pointed out that I paid 30% so I'd save 30 and lose the
other 70. Oh, yeah, she said, never thought of that.
I also learned not to show more than two tv's to anyone, one more
espensive than the other. If you show them 3, they get confused and
leave witthout buying anything. (If they asked, I lied and said the
others weren't fixed yet.)
But everything I sold was at a fair market price.
Here's some good used car buying advise from a guest on an
One trick to sell a car with a rod knock if to fill the crankcase with
Crisco. Crisco is vegetable oil that's solid until warmed, in case
you not familiar it. My mom and grandma used it, or lard, for deep
So you want to start and warm up any car you're thinking of buying.
Get it hot.
Then its simply a case of pulling the dipstick.
If the dipstick smells of fried, chicken, shrimp, potatoes, onion
rings, etc, walk away from it.
Very important if YOU are not a mechanic, or VERY mechanically
I've bought many used vehicles privately as is - and I ALWAYS had a me
it out - but I AM a mechanic -----
I did buy ONE at night, in the dark, without checking it out - knowing
I was buying junk- but getting more junk than I expbought it from a
"so-called mechanic" and he either lied through his teeth or he was a
very inept mechanic. Yes. I regretted buying that one, but DID own it
for 6 years after I fixed it.
What is it worth to you not to buy a $250 pile of junk for $4000?
Check the car over yourself. Then if you think it is good, get a
mechanic friend to look at it. If he says don't buy , walk. If he
thinks it could be good, pay to nave it towed to the mechanic who you
will have safety it if you buy it. For about $100 you can be sure what
you are buying is certifiable. you also may need to be sure it can
I've done the "mechanic friend check" for MANY friends over the
years, and as a mechanic did a LOT of pre-purchace inspections.
Basically a complete safety check with no parts, and an engine
condition check. Paying for an emission test is also good insurance.
The cost of the safety checku loose if you don't buy it - and if you
do, you needed the check anyway.
There are too many things that can be wrong with a car that the
"uninformed" will totally miss - and it can cost you BIG!!
On Wed, 17 Sep 2014 18:22:35 -0400, Stormin Mormon
I'vr bought many that needed absolutely nothing - and several that
needed virtually no repairs for years.
My (wife's) is a 2002 Ford Taurus we bought 2 years ago with 58000 km
on it. I replaced the tires this spring, as well as the headlights
(yellow and crazed) It has 86000km on it now. The heater control had
hiccuped twice in the last 2 months so I popped out the mix door servo
and re-lubricated it.
My pickup had 308000km on it and I knew it needed a clutch slave cyl
when , plus a windsheild.. That was 3 years ago. Only problems since
were "U" joints and a cracked hood in the evap system. - has 326,000km
on it now - 17 years old next month.
Youngest daughter's old Neon - bought with almost 200,000km on it and
in the first 2 years just needed a rad andt brakes. Nothing in the
Wife's '88 Chrysler, bought with 100,000km at 6 years of age - first
required repairs were 3 years later when the cat converter plugged -
ended up needing cyl heads replaced. 3 years later front suspension
work, and when it was 15 years old, the transmission went bad
(actually the differential - but inside the transaxle). Sold it in
good running condition at 18 years of age - had to put in a steering
rack to certify it for sale,240,000km.
The 85 LeBaron before that was the rainy night special - had more rust
than I thought and the engine was totally shot - not repairable. Had
to put an engine in it. $1000 car, $1000 engine - went 4 years before
the body got too rusty to put on the hoist to fix a brake line.
Then there was the $500 Pontiac TransSport - bought with a blown
engine. rebuilt engine for $2800. A year later the transmission cost
me another $1000.. All kinds of stupid little things on that van - but
it WAS a GM. I got what I bought - a pile of headaches - for $500. I
think I drove it 7 or 8 years and put $100,000km on it before the
rebuilt engine let go.
Years before I bought a 1980 Tercel with 300,000km on it. Mechanically
it needed nothing. Several years later I put a new timing belt and
clutch in before a long road trip. The clutch was still in good shape,
but since I had it out I put in a new disc and bearing.. 6 years or so
without any mechanical failures. Just fiberglassed the back fenders.
The car was well maintained by myself for the original owner.
I've only had a warranty on one vehicle I've ever owned - and it had
more work done under warranty in the first 3 months than I've ever had
to doin the first year of any used car I've owned except the 2
junkers. That 1976 RamCharger cost me more to own than ANY used car
I've owned on a per year basis. With the full equipment package I
added, it was a $10,000 vehicle. In a year and a half I traded it for
$3500 and an AMC Pacer nobody wanted. (and that Pacer was 100% trouble
free except for a steerinng rack bushing.)
Even with 0% financing I have a hard time imagining a scenario where I
would buy another brand new car, unless I win the lottery - and win it
On 9/17/2014 10:38 PM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Never owned a Chrysler product. Every car I've owned until recently
needed something under warranty. GM pissed me off the last time when
they suggested I buy a new car instead of fixing the one I had. So, I
took them up on it and bought a Hyundai Sona ta. I've had three of them
now and they are the most reliable cars I've ever owned. None have
needed anything aside from tires, one got brake pads on one axle.
Meantime, the Buick was falling apart in the driveway. I ended up
giving it away.
I had a 1981 Plymouth Horizon. That car had a lot of problems, including:
1. Underpowered engine would die frequently for no apparent reason.
2. Electrical problem that prevented starting every week of so. (It
turned out to be a short in the glove compartment; light never went off).
3. Coolant leak that wouldn't show up on leak tests, until someone
thought to check the radiator cap.
4. Bent shaft on A/C compressor. It would cost more to fix than in a big
I now have a 1998 Chevrolet, which has had very little trouble. Other
than tires and batteries, the only major trouble was overheating this
year. It needed a new heater hose.
98 days until the winter celebration (Thursday December 25, 2014
12:00:00 AM for 1 day).
Nobody ever wants to buy a car from me. I "run them until the wheels
fall off" and that really means there is far more wrong than I am
ready to fix.
People always assume that since I am very good at keeping a car going
that I would have a good car to buy but when I sell a car, it is done.
In that regard, I prefer to trade them.
Those guys are pros and they are supposed to know what they are
I still want a low mileage used car, not a new one.
On Wed, 17 Sep 2014 22:38:35 -0400, email@example.com wrote:
I had a 71 Gremlin that someone gave me because it needed a clutch and
she owed me money (I guess that really meant it cost me $1000 but I
had written that off as lost money)
I put in the new clutch, threw a set of tires I had in the garage at
it and put 50,000 miles on it with nothing but that #5 plug those
232ci engines fouled regularly. I wasn't even a fanatic about oil
After a while I was just cleaning them, throwing them in the glove box
and swapping them out. I could do one at a long light ;-)
The tires were mounted on Cragar SS mag wheels off of a GT mustang
when I got them so I had a pretty funny looking gremlin
I've driven Chevy, Pontiac, Buick and Olds for 50 years.
With Ford truck, VW Bug and Squareback thrown in.
Not a one ever stranded me, but I take care of them.
And some "luck" is involved there.
I've probably spent less for a lifetime of cars than the cost of one
new Sonata. It's how I retired early.
But I like "tinkering" with cars.
My current cars are a 2003 Impala, and a 1993 Grand Am.
The Impala looks and runs like new. The Grand Am runs well,
but I have to replace the windshield trim. I'll have a windshield guy
come over and do it. $200 if he has to replace the glass.
The Impala is by far the most I've ever paid for a car, $8k a year and
a half ago. No maintenance so far except oil changes.
I don't listen to car salesmen.
GM puts out many flawed vehicles. You have to know which to avoid,
and which can be fixed. You just didn't want to fix your Buick.
So you went for Hyundai. Could do the same with Toyota, Honda.
If you're buying new cars probably better value. I don't know how
that holds up post-2003.
GM used cars have been very, very good to me.
Years ago, someone commented to me that every
Chrysler or Dodge or Plymouth owner has to have
at least a couple spare ballast resistors for
the vehicle. I repeated that comment to the
guy next door, who does none of his own repair.
He replied "do you mean these?" and then got
two or three ballast resistors out of the glove
box of his auto.
In 1974 when electronic ignition came out, they had a
porcelean thing with a wire wound resistor, screwed
to the firewall in front of the passenger seat. This
limited power to the ignition coil, so it would not
oveheat if the ignition was on, but car not running.
I don't know if they are still used, or which was the
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
I did not have to buy cars new or old during my working days. Drove
company car all those years replacing it every 3 years. At 3 year mark,
I often bought the car at book value and passed it to friend and family
member. So I always took care of the car I drove very well.
I don't know when they quit using them or if they may still use them in some
cars. It is a resistor that goes right before the high voltage coil in the
12 volt wiring. Often it is shorted out by the switch while cranking the
engine to give a hotter spark while the starting motor is draging down the
Many that I have seen are about 1/2 of an inch square and about 3 or 4 inchs
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