As much as I hate to purchase a used vehicle from a dealership, the one
I want is nowhere to be found from private sellers. Therefore, I'm
negotiating a price with a dealer via email and out of state. They may
accept my offer and I plan to pay cash. Years ago, cash was king but I
hear nowadays, it doesn't pull it's weight with dealerships much anymore
and some actually avoid it because they will think you want to finance
which earns them revenue, though, it's all hearsay. In my final email
confirming terms, I am at limbo whether to disclose my cash payment or
to simply let it pass and if they accept, do I just pick up the car and
hand them cash. My concern is being out of state and problems occur. I
haven't a problem walking away, but I hate to have extra expense to a
return trip home without a new vehicle.
Anyone have dealer experience who can enlighten me this issue?
Years ago I bought a minivan via EBay Motors. The dealer was in Florida and
I live in Virginia. They answered all my questions via email and promised
to pick me up at the airport. If I didn't like to car they would take me
back to the airport.
When I arrived there was someone there to get me. They took me to a the
worst small dealership I had ever seen. The guy who greeted me was the
stereotypical used car dealer. I was starting to regret what I had done.
They sent a guy with me to the road trip. I told him everything I thought
was wrong with the car afterwards and they told me to get them fixed when I
get home and they will reimburse me. All this was in writing. So I drove
home that day and stopped overnight in North Carolina. The next morning the
car wouldn't start. Someone gave me a jump start and I drove the entire way
back home. I stopped at Advance Auto and they diagnosed a bad battery which
got replaced. I had a couple other things fixed by the local garage. I sent
all the bills to the selling dealer and they sent me a reimbursement check
the next week.
Despite the breakdown overnight, the entire process was the easiest time
I've ever had purchasing a car. I was very leery of doing business over the
internet like that but my wife was big into EBay those days and she assured
me it would be fine. We had that minivan for ten more years. I'm not sure I
would do that again though. The last four cars I've bought since then have
all been from the same salesman at different dealerships. He's always
gotten us a good deal and we trust him. That's worth as much as a good
mechanic you trust.
On Wed, 6 Apr 2016 21:32:49 -0000 (UTC), badgolferman
In all the years I've been buying used cars, I've bought about half
of them privately, and half the rest from "brokers" or "wholesalers"
I've never had anything go wrong that I didn't expect when I bought
it except for one private sale non-running vehicle that was in a lot
worse shape than the (mechanic) guy I bought it from indicated - and
I had taken his word.. It cost me more than I had expected and didn't
last as long as I had hoped - but I still got my money's worth.
It was one of 2 that I purchased farther than 50km from home. The
other was an "as traded" from a dealer which my wife is still driving
and which has been virtually trouble free. It was a very low mileage
12 year old cream-puff that they had to put front springs in before it
could leave the lot
.. sounds like a Taurus - front springs were a 10 year
hidden warranty .. 2001 & there - abouts ..
I shopped for a cream-puff Taurus - not rare - but I didn't find
one, when I needed a car ..
We have owned 4 Taurus s : 1996 wagon ; 2 x 2001 sedans ;
2006 sedan . and all were ~ trouble free.
I scrapped 3 Vulcan engines that were going strong -
all with 300 - 360 on them.
I would change the oil at 7500 km - and wonder why bother -
it wasn't at all dirty .. oh well ...
On Wed, 06 Apr 2016 21:52:17 -0400, email@example.com wrote:
02 SEL 32 valve (Duratec 3.0) - been a FANTASTIC car so far.
Bought it with 53000km on it for $6500 in showroom condition. 4 years
Put over 20,000km on it the first year. Ready to turn the 100,000km
any day now.
I change the oil twice a year, synthetic oil and factory filter. I
replaced the tires that came on it with another set of Tiger Paw
Touring - won't buy another set of them. The rubber is cracking pretty
baddly after only 3 years. I've replaced the brake pads on the front,
and just replaced the battery.. Other than that just the typical Ford
electrical gremlins - like door lock switches and PATS sensor - and a
set of headlights (they yellowed - I sanded and sealed them, and they
yellowed again - so I bought a new aftermarket set off Ebay.
I've run across a few more recently with very low mileage and in very
good condition - mostly SE models with the Vulcan engine.
I've been spoiled by the Duratec - had the 2.5 in the Mystique we had
before the Taurus. They are "old man cars" - but I'm not a young
feller any more.
It's my Wife's car - I drive the 1996 Ranger I bought privately about
the same time with 307,000km on it - again in showroom condition. but
needing a clutch cyl.. $1500 plus $900 for clutch and $300 for
winsheild - so well under $3000 on the road..
I've put on different wheels and tires and bigger front brakes, as
well as replacing U Joints to get it up to the current 341000km.
I also installed AC which it didn't have from the factory, and I
replaced the battery (it was9 years old and still starting the truck).
5 speed 4 liter long box standard cab with 3.55 posi, box liner ans
Virtually everything else on the truck is still original including the
Look in the boot of the drivers door for a cracked wire - for the
power window issues - gotta really look & feel carefully .. I missed
it the first time & spent many more hours trouble-shooting, before
going back & finding it ,, The indication of a wire in the door
boot was - trying the windows with the door closed - then in different
positions opening - it would intermittantly connect with the motion
of the door ..
If you pay a shop for engine repairs - the Duratec will skin you
for labour on certain things .. although both engines are quite
I've got the Haynes manual if you want it - I think my Taurus days
are done ..
On Thu, 07 Apr 2016 08:46:26 -0400, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
I've got the factory manuals for both vehicles. So far my experience
with Ford electrics is the connectors are the main problem. On the
Mystique, ALL electrical problems were connectors failing.
When I asked my younger brother who is still a working mechanic about
what to buy he said "stay away from the cammer - they are more
expensive to fix", so I asked him how many cammer problems he's run
into compared to Vulcans. He said not very many, particularly under
200,000km so I told him I'll be sure to buy one with low mileage and
be ready to dump it if anything goes wrong in 20 years or so when it
The 2.5 Mystique went about 175000km with no engine problems before
the body got too soft to bother with.
Can they give you a lien-free endorsed title, a bill of sale, and
issue you a temporary license plate to drive home on ?
Will they accept a bank or cashiers check after giving you a full,
bottom line, out-the-door, dollar figure ? (Don't do actual cash)
Then yes, you give them the check, they give you the keys and paperwork.
Don't forget to call your insurance ASAP.
No need to disclose that you will be paying cash. And it is not hearsay
about dealers no liking cash. It happened to me.
We went to a dealer to buy a Toyota when they had an "All in Stock at
This Price" sale. No bargaining. The deal was sealed. Until they found
out that we would pay cash and that we would not be buying an extended
warranty, prepaid maintenance, fabric guard, paint protection, gold
package, digital ash trays, glass etching, or any of many other dealer
add-ons. They reneged on the deal by making up a cock and bull story
about the car having been damaged, then repaired, but not being "cleared
by Toyota." Almost certainly illegal, but what are you going to do, take
them to court?
We returned the next day, made sure we talked to a different sales
person and finance office person, financed the vehicle, and paid it off
the first month. They had no intention of honoring the published price
unless the buyer gave them some more profit somewhere. Their ad price
was about $1500 under "invoice," and probably only about $300 over the
real dealer cost. We did not get the color we wanted though. 20 years
later we still have that Camry, and my wife still talks about how she
wanted "Shadow Plum Pearl" not white, even though she doesn't even drive
that car anymore.
We had flown down to the L.A. area from the San Francisco area to buy
the car because for some reason the Southern California dealers for
Toyota and Lexus typically have much lower prices than the Northern
California dealers. In 1996, the price difference was $1500, which made
it worth it. If we had not bought the car we would have had to fly back.
You could finance it, being certain that there is no prepayment penalty,
then pay it off a week or so later and pay only a very small amount of
My daughter bought a year-old used car from a dealer and got over
$600 off for financing the car with the dealer - and the terms allowed
her to pay it off in full after 2 months. The rate was something like
3 or 3.25%, so not much of a decision.
It must be a very unique vehicle if it's so hard to find.
One thing I realized about 20 years ago was that new cars tend to be a
lot less expensive than used cars out in California, especially for
brands that hold their value well.
Private parties, selling recent vintage vehicles tend to have an
inflated idea of what the vehicles are worth because anyone selling a
car only two or three years old is also probably someone that overpaid
for the vehicle to begin with. Meanwhile, the dealers are receiving an
essentially limitless supply of new vehicles from the manufacturer and
will sell them at a very wide variety of prices, with incentives from
the manufacturer to keep the supply chain and manufacturing plants
operating at full capacity. Toyota and Honda hate limiting production
during slower periods and put in large incentives to not have to slow
It's especially ridiculous when you compare 1 year old Toyotas and
Hondas to new ones. The new ones tend to have a lower price plus you get
more of a warranty and lower rate financing.
Is the full vehicle history available ? as to ownerships &
accidents etc. An accident-case should be discounted
quite a bit. Some dealers seem to specialize in these "bargains".
Daily Rental cars are also discounted.
I can't imagine negotiating on a used car before a thorough
inspection and a test drive.
On 4/6/2016 7:11 PM, email@example.com wrote:
A clean Carfax history is provided. No accidents involved. It was a 1 yr
11 month lease, which is common for lease vehicles. My only concern is
last registrant name is under Honda Lease and Trust in Minnesota (car is
in Fargo, ND). Thus, I'm wondering if it was a company vehicle.
I agree about negotiating without inspection and test drive, but I am
unable to find this specific car within a close distance of my home. If
I want them to save it, I must lay a non-refundable deposit or travel
and risk having the car sold when I arrive. If I can negotiate a deposit
return upon anything faulty, damaged, non-working, etc., I would do so,
but from past info of another dealer, they don't do that. The plus side
is the vehicle is a 2014 with only 20,xxx miles on it and photos of it
look great. I have spoken to several people who have purchased vehicles
out of state with great success. My insurance provider used two dealers
against each to negotiate price and he went out of state as well.
Overall, being the first time seeking out of state and laying down a
deposit without viewing is what leads my apprehension.
Just check the dates on the history report - it should indicate
the return to the lease company - as well as the transfer from the
lease company to the dealership .. it might give you some bargaining
power - if the dealer has had it for several months ...
If the dealer has only had it for a couple weeks and it is a rare,
much-in-demand model - you should move on it.
The history report , unfortunately, will not help you - in knowing
how the car was treated for it's first 2 years .. personal lease or
fleet lease ... or daily rental ..
Also - from my experience < in Ontario Canada > not all
accidents are on the record ... hence the advice from the
careful experts - have your trusted mechanic put it up on the hoist
and give it a thorough inspection ..
The other posts in this thread that seem to be pro-financing -
I don't think it applies to used cars ... usually you are locked in
with those financing conditions ... new cars - dunno ..
On 4/6/2016 8:48 PM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
CF indicates the vehicle was offered for sale last month (March 18th).
Asking price is $16,000, but we know that's not out the door. I already
negotiated down to my max as the out the door price. I really beat up
the sales guy. He originally countered with a max of $16,000 and I pay
my tax and title in state. I simply replied "thank you for your time".
He then came back with an excited email tone how he was able to get the
price to $15,799 because I had to pay the document fee. I told him the
document fee is bull, an insult and once again, thank you for your time.
Then he replied again asking if he can get the price to my max of
$15,500, will I lay a deposit. I replied with clarification of the terms
and indicated if all answers are favorable, then yes, I will lay a
deposit. That is where we stand now. I just don't know whether to
mention cash/cashiers check or not.
I had a strange experince, earlier this year. Drove
from NYS to SC, to look at a vehicle. At a lot a
friend reccomended. Got there, the deler said he
sold it earlier in the day. We went out back and
found a vehicle which was better suited, cheaper,
"just came in". I drove it home, and have been
Still have some of the manufacturer's warranty? Given the age and miles
it should have little wear. I'd probably go for it. You can probably
sell it for about what you paid for it. If nothing else, you got a
mini-vacation in North Dakota.
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