When thsame thing happened with the heater switch on my Mystique I
just soldered the wires to the switch.
You might try just tinning the switch pins to make them a bit bigger -
might do the job. If not, the solder job is already half done.
I'm surprised that no one has mentioned using conductive epoxy to remedy
"loose disconnections" like the one you are describing. It's saved my
ass a few times and I've kept the unused epoxy in the kitchen freezer
for several years and it still works fine when needed.
Conductive epoxy would likely fix your problem and you'll probably trade
in the car before the switch itself fails. It wouldn't hurt to scrape
out the female contacts a bit before using the epoxy in case they are
On Friday, September 30, 2016 at 4:56:23 PM UTC-4, Jeff Wisnia wrote:
w, though none of the others have to work.
mbling, cleaning, and polishing, I got it to work intermittently. Swapping
with a known good switch I finally found the real problem: the connector
doesn't stay on the pins tightly. Slight finger pressure will make good co
ntact and the window works fine, but otherwise not. It's a 1991 Volvo if t
hat makes any difference.
h on, there are four sockets in the connector and four fat pins on the swit
ch. I'd swap with one of the other three, but the four switch connectors a
re all shaped uniquely and can't be repositioned.
n I fixed it last year, and succeeded by luck.
tches as well as several others (mirror adjustments, child locks, etc.) Ve
rtical finger pressure downward operates the window. Press down on the bac
k of the switch (it's a rocker) and the window goes down; press on the fron
t of the switch and it goes up.
oor. The connector has four female sockets that mate with the switch. The
wiring harness has 7 connectors. If I pull the entire switch assembly out
of the door panel, and press lightly upwards on the bottom of the connecto
r, the switch will work.
cause I found a Volvo web site that explained in detail how to disassemble
the switch and clean corrosion and said this was a known failure mode for t
hat car. And it did seem to work. This year I cleaned the switch contacts
AND swapped it for a known good switch, and the symptom remains. Pressure
on the connector makes it work. The "bad" switch works fine in the new lo
ing harness wire loose on the socket connection. If the latter is the case
this will be a pain in the butt to work on, it's a large wiring harness bu
ried deep in the door panel with almost no slack.
On Thursday, September 22, 2016 at 11:59:46 AM UTC-4, Buck wrote:
hough none of the others have to work.
ng, cleaning, and polishing, I got it to work intermittently. Swapping wit
h a known good switch I finally found the real problem: the connector does
n't stay on the pins tightly. Slight finger pressure will make good contac
t and the window works fine, but otherwise not. It's a 1991 Volvo if that
makes any difference.
, there are four sockets in the connector and four fat pins on the switch.
I'd swap with one of the other three, but the four switch connectors are a
ll shaped uniquely and can't be repositioned.
d direct solder wires to switch.
That's not a bad suggestion, although he did say:
"it's a large wiring harness buried deep in the door panel with almost
If the connector just reaches the switch now, the wires won't once the
connector is cut off - unless the individual wires are either pulled out
of the harness and re-routed (might work, might not) or "extensions" are
soldered on first.
Of course, the switch itself also has to be amenable to having wires
soldered on to it. Access to the connection points, room for the wires,
Like I said, the suggestion has merit but the implementation may
On Thursday, September 22, 2016 at 12:55:25 PM UTC-4, DerbyDad03 wrote:
and direct solder wires to switch.
This could be done. There are only 4 wires. They are short but could be s
The switch though has 4 male pins that are in a recessed cavity. It would
not be simple to solder directly to them. I think I would have to crimp fe
male terminals on the end of the wires, and maybe even solder those to the
pins to avoid them vibrating off.
I've found some good videos by googling "repin terminal." There are tricks
for getting these out, some of which might work.
But first I'm going to try shimming the connector in place and see if that
helps. Maybe something as simple as a rubber band will get a couple more y
ears out of it.
On Thursday, September 22, 2016 at 1:19:49 PM UTC-4, TimR wrote:
s and direct solder wires to switch.
d not be simple to solder directly to them. I think I would have to crimp
female terminals on the end of the wires, and maybe even solder those to th
e pins to avoid them vibrating off.
ks for getting these out, some of which might work.
t helps. Maybe something as simple as a rubber band will get a couple more
years out of it.
A zip-tie would probably last forever. I'm sure that with some creative
zip-tieing, perhaps with multiple zip-ties and/or a strategically drilled
hole to run the zip-tie through, you could secure the connector in the
I solved a "self acceleration" issue in my daughter's Taurus with a single
zip-tie. The cable housing at the throttle body end of the cruise control
cable is known to crack, causing the cable to fall out of the mounting
bracket, introducing slack. Once that happens, the cruise control doesn't
work and the vehicle's idle slowly increases. You don't really notice it
unless you take your foot off the gas while traveling under 20 mph and
just coast. You suddenly realize that you don't slow down and in fact that
you are slowly gaining speed. One zip-tie near the end of the CC cable
prevents it from falling out of the bracket. It's been >60K miles since I
added the zip-tie and the problem has never returned.
I would not use a rubber band, it will self destruct quickly. I don't know
if anyone suggested this but maybe a drop of solder in the correct place may
make an interference fit. If it's too big it can be filed down.
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