On 7/26/2017 7:55 PM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
In states with no safety inspection the accident rates are no higher
than stated with them. When lived in PA, inspection was a joke. Many
shops were either incompetent, or ripped people off claiming they needed
expensive work. I had cars that would not legally pass but always had a
I don't know of any state where you don't pay for emissions testing. We
don't need it tested for five years here.
Having done safety checks for something like 20-22 years, you
wouldn't believe what came through (and what was occaisionally passed
by another shop, then ended up in mine for repairs)
I also did safety checks for the Canadian Street Rod Association at
Natiomnals and Regionals - and again you'd be SHOCKED at some of what
came through the lanes.
We took a few rods off the street and I'm sure we saved a few lives.
We sent a TERRIBLE Henry J from New York back to the US border on a
flat-bed. How he got back home I don't know (or IF he did - it was
Our provincial safety checks are only at time of sale, unless pulled
over on a roadside check and obvious shortfalls are found. Some
insurance companies will require a DOT check if a vehicle is over a
certain age - particularly on "new business".
It's suspension and steering, bodywork and exhaust, brakes and
chassis, and lights and glazing.
It prevents (or at least reduces) sale of vehicles that are deathtraps
as driveable vehicles. Things like carbon monoxide poisoning from
seriously leaking bodywork and exhaust, brake failure from bad lines,
hoses, oversized drums or thin rotors etc, loss of control from failed
The Henry J had a Pontiac 428HO, and the steering linkage was cheap
hardware store 3/8" drive socket extentions and "U" joints - flopping
all over the place. All-thread was used to hold suspension together
instead of proper hardened bolts.
I've seen some just as bad in DOT inspections - repairs that made
"bush league" look good -unibodies patched with nothing but roofing
cement and tar paper - and perhaps a license plate or two in the
footwell areas. Headlights pointed every direction except straight -
and even installed sideways or upside-down, and switches hanging out
of the instrument panel, with headlights rewired with plastic coated
clothes-line cable - and that's just for starters.
On Wednesday, July 26, 2017 at 9:04:25 PM UTC-4, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
NJ is free, state inspection stations. But you wind up paying for it in tax
es. The test just reads out the OBD data. Agree that I've never seen anyt
hing that shows inspection relates to highway safety. NJ doesn't care if y
our wheels are falling off and your lights don't work, it's emissions only.
And now that it's only that, I don't see accidents where the cause is attr
ibuted to mechanical issues.
Also, some states, like Texas, check for window tint. The glass needs to
be able to have the tester slide over the glass and unless it's a
convertible that's hot easy to do if the window can't be rolled down.
On 7/26/17 7:55 PM, email@example.com wrote:
What, the emissions fairy pays for them and builds, staffs, and
maintains the inspection stations? The taxpayers foot the bill for your
"free" inspections, you ninny.
You must be one of those do-gooder/virtue-signalling liberals who
believes in free college, free healthcare, and free room and board for
those too lazy to work and for the broodmares who squirt out an
illegitimate welfare baby a year....
The "inspection stations" are privately owned and financed companies
that do other things as well - oil change outlets and general repair
garages. They used to charge $35, submitting about half to the
government. Now the government pays them something like $15 per
inspection - and if rhe car fails, you pay full pop for the retest.
The inspection charge comes out of our gasoline taxes and
licence/registration fees, apparently.
No, I am oneof those who has worked for my living since I was 14 and
has never collected UI or been unemployed for more than a week in my
life. I also am smart enough not to compartmentalize everyone as a
liberal or a conservative, ot a commycrat or a reb.
In North Carolina the inspection is a big ripoff. At one time I had a
car that was in good shape and had been going to an inspection place for
several years. He hardly looked at a car, just slapped on a sticker.
Went to him one year and he said his garage was full of cars to be
repaired and it was raining. Told me if I wanted a sticker to scrape
off the old one and put the new one on myself..I also had an old beater
of a truck. It was ok to drive, but doubt it would pass a good
inpsection. Same deal, the man just stuck on a new sticker with out
looking at the truck.
I went to a different place that mainly worked on cars. The car I had
was only about 3 years old. Nothing wrong with it. The inspector told
me he could not pass it becaues it did not have a catylitic converter.
I told him I bought the car new and nothing had been done to it and if
it did not have the converter it was like it came from the factory.
Another man there looked and told him the converter was under the hood
in the engine compartment.
It was about the same with another place. They did finally have to hook
up the computer with the newer cars, but that was all.
On 7/26/2017 7:45 PM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Not a problem. The woman in front of me on the Garden State Parkway had
a system. Pull up to the exact change basket, put car in park, slid
over and get out on passenger side, run around to drop the money in the
basket, run back, etc.
Think a little more. What makes the connection "tight" It is not the
block. It is the spring tension of the connectors on the pins. The
connectors MUST be loose in the block to allow them to move and align
to the pins. You need to understand how those connections work. I do.
Which is why I have been giving you accurate advice on how to fix the
problem. Either replace the connections ot solder them.. Go to an auto
wreckers - there is sure to be a "pick-a-part" type place near you -
and getr the connectors from the latest model vehicle you can find
that uses the same switch. That will take a bit of research - but
Google is your friend on that count. Take the plugs, with as much
wire as you can get (6 inches or more) then cut the old plug off and
solder the new one on. Get the switch too, for good measure -.
Still no photo to go by, but just from your description it sounds like
the female ends of the connectors are loose.
Usually, the individual sleeves or pins can be extracted from the
connector block and be made to fit tighter and then reinserted back
into the block. You may have to fashion an extraction tool to depress
the barb which holds the female connector in the block.
On Thursday, September 22, 2016 at 10:36:05 AM UTC-4, TimR wrote:
w, though none of the others have to work.
mbling, cleaning, and polishing, I got it to work intermittently. Swapping
with a known good switch I finally found the real problem: the connector
doesn't stay on the pins tightly. Slight finger pressure will make good co
ntact and the window works fine, but otherwise not. It's a 1991 Volvo if t
hat makes any difference.
h on, there are four sockets in the connector and four fat pins on the swit
ch. I'd swap with one of the other three, but the four switch connectors a
re all shaped uniquely and can't be repositioned.
fixed it last year, and succeeded by luck.
es as well as several others (mirror adjustments, child locks, etc.) Verti
cal finger pressure downward operates the window. Press down on the back o
f the switch (it's a rocker) and the window goes down; press on the front o
f the switch and it goes up.
. The connector has four female sockets that mate with the switch. The wi
ring harness has 7 connectors. If I pull the entire switch assembly out of
the door panel, and press lightly upwards on the bottom of the connector,
the switch will work.
se I found a Volvo web site that explained in detail how to disassemble the
switch and clean corrosion and said this was a known failure mode for that
car. And it did seem to work. This year I cleaned the switch contacts AN
D swapped it for a known good switch, and the symptom remains. Pressure on
the connector makes it work. The "bad" switch works fine in the new locat
harness wire loose on the socket connection. If the latter is the case th
is will be a pain in the butt to work on, it's a large wiring harness burie
d deep in the door panel with almost no slack.
If you need to take the door panel off, they typically aren't hard to do.
Like many things, the internet has been a big help. Check youtube for
videos on how to do it for your car. The big thing is knowing where
the screws are that you need to remove.
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