OT: automotive electrical connector loose, power window

On Monday, October 3, 2016 at 11:29:58 AM UTC-4, TimR wrote:
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a kluge arrangement of rubber bands and toothpicks. As predicted, it did n ot work reliably, although it did occasionally.

and the mechanic showed me the same problem on a different connector block so I'm pretty sure I finally know the real diagnosis.

onnector block (part of the wiring harness in the door) are hollow, female.

. But the female pins on the connector block are loose and they slide back when the connector is pushed on. The mechanic had trouble getting the tur n signals to function after the headlight replacement and he showed me. He ended up pushing the pins forward out of the connector and connecting it m anually, then adding the connector block next. I didn't know pins would co me out forward, but he said on old worn cars it isn't uncommon for these to be loose. There's a special half moon tool for depressing the tab and get ting them out backwards for replacement.

ool, true. But I don't think the pins are the problem. I think the pins a re fine, but they're loose in the block, because the block itself is worn ( or maybe even damaged by overheating.) I think new pins will just slide ba ck in the block, failing to make contact, like the old ones do.

ctor block, if they are available. Second is just to switch the wires to o ne of the switches that works. I can't switch the connectors because all f our are unique, but I could cut the wires to two switches and swap them.
So, if I understand that correctly, you want to (for example) have the rear passenger switch control the front driver's window, but still be in th e rear passenger position of the switch block.
Do you know if that will pass inspection? That's what started this whole discussion, right?
You take the car for inspection and the tech tries the driver's window switch. Nothing happens, so he fails the vehicle. He comes out, you tell him to try the rear passenger window switch - or maybe you tell him before hand. Do you know if that will fly?
Maybe you want to ask before you go through the trouble?
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snipped-for-privacy@eznet.net says...
<snip> > So, if I understand that correctly, you want to (for example) have the

In Texas the only thing the side windows are checked for is too dark window tent, however if they can't get the window down in order to check the tent I suppose that might be cause for failure.
--
RonNNN

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On Monday, October 3, 2016 at 1:29:32 PM UTC-4, RonNNN wrote:

Why do Texans set up tents inside their vehicles?
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snipped-for-privacy@eznet.net says...

The bad guys don't want the cops to see inside their vehicle when they get stopped, the good guys want to keep the Texas heat out.
--
RonNNN

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On Monday, October 3, 2016 at 1:36:02 PM UTC-4, RonNNN wrote:

Whoosh!
(Hint: Check your spelling)
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snipped-for-privacy@eznet.net says...

You got me! LOL!
--
RonNNN

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Which is why they TINT their windows. A TENT is something totally different!!
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snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca says...

No shit Sherlock! Derby already pointed out my incorrect spelling. BTW, speel chunkers dusn't no it wuz speeled rong.
--
RonNNN

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DerbyDad03 presented the following explanation :

So they can canvas the neighborhood.
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On Monday, October 3, 2016 at 12:37:22 PM UTC-4, DerbyDad03 wrote:

None of the switches are marked. How would he know which is which? Maybe Volvo made them that way in 1991.
Anyway, it's a thought, if the car is still running next year. I've passed this year, had it working long enough to make it through.
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On Monday, October 3, 2016 at 3:17:51 PM UTC-4, TimR wrote:

Well, if I got into a vehicle with a window switch bank that was unmarked, I'd take a wild ass guess and try the front left for the driver's window, the front right for the front passenger window, etc.
I don't recall ever being in a vehicle where the windows were randomly assigned to the switches, but maybe that's just me.

Good for you!
Just curious: How inconvenient is it to not have a working window? I know I use mine quite often.
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On Mon, 3 Oct 2016 09:37:17 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03

Do it once. Do it right.
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On 10/03/2016 4:32 PM, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote: ...

Right! Trade the vehicle and be done with it...
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On Monday, October 3, 2016 at 12:37:22 PM UTC-4, DerbyDad03 wrote:

rote:

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h a kluge arrangement of rubber bands and toothpicks. As predicted, it did not work reliably, although it did occasionally.

d and the mechanic showed me the same problem on a different connector bloc k so I'm pretty sure I finally know the real diagnosis.

connector block (part of the wiring harness in the door) are hollow, femal e.

ve. But the female pins on the connector block are loose and they slide ba ck when the connector is pushed on. The mechanic had trouble getting the t urn signals to function after the headlight replacement and he showed me. He ended up pushing the pins forward out of the connector and connecting it manually, then adding the connector block next. I didn't know pins would come out forward, but he said on old worn cars it isn't uncommon for these to be loose. There's a special half moon tool for depressing the tab and g etting them out backwards for replacement.

tool, true. But I don't think the pins are the problem. I think the pins are fine, but they're loose in the block, because the block itself is worn (or maybe even damaged by overheating.) I think new pins will just slide back in the block, failing to make contact, like the old ones do.

nector block, if they are available. Second is just to switch the wires to one of the switches that works. I can't switch the connectors because all four are unique, but I could cut the wires to two switches and swap them.

the

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IDK where Tim is located, but here, in the Peoples Republic of NJ, they never cared about window switches to pass inspection, even back in the day when they cared about things like windshield wipers and headlight aiming. Now they just connect to the OBD to check for pollution monitors. I don't think they even check brakes anymore.
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On Monday, October 3, 2016 at 5:53:12 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:

wrote:

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ith a kluge arrangement of rubber bands and toothpicks. As predicted, it d id not work reliably, although it did occasionally.

ced and the mechanic showed me the same problem on a different connector bl ock so I'm pretty sure I finally know the real diagnosis.

he connector block (part of the wiring harness in the door) are hollow, fem ale.

move. But the female pins on the connector block are loose and they slide back when the connector is pushed on. The mechanic had trouble getting the turn signals to function after the headlight replacement and he showed me. He ended up pushing the pins forward out of the connector and connecting it manually, then adding the connector block next. I didn't know pins woul d come out forward, but he said on old worn cars it isn't uncommon for thes e to be loose. There's a special half moon tool for depressing the tab and getting them out backwards for replacement.

n

al tool, true. But I don't think the pins are the problem. I think the pi ns are fine, but they're loose in the block, because the block itself is wo rn (or maybe even damaged by overheating.) I think new pins will just slid e back in the block, failing to make contact, like the old ones do.

onnector block, if they are available. Second is just to switch the wires to one of the switches that works. I can't switch the connectors because a ll four are unique, but I could cut the wires to two switches and swap them .

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ore

.

No, in Virginia you must have an operable driver's window, though none of t he others have to work.
I use it every morning when I pass the security guard at work and have to s how my ID.
I did enough messing with it that lifting the switch assembly with my index finger is making contact. I know that's temporary; I've spotted another V olvo at the local recycle yard and hope to get a switch off that this weeke nd.
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I never did update this thread, kind of forgot about it, but here it is.
I did go to the auto salvage yard, found a Volvo with a similar switch, and cut the wiring harness.
I removed the connector block with the female pins from the salvage switch.
I cut off the old connector block and spliced in the "new" one. I wasn't 1 00% sure of the best way to do that, but the guy in the auto parts store sa id he used male and female bullet connectors, and I did that. I did not us e the cheap crimping tool they wanted to sell me, I had an actual quality c rimper from some previous project I disremember. I also taped over the joi nts.
So all four windows are still working fine. If I fail inspection next mont h it will be for something else.
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On 7/26/17 8:46 AM, TimR wrote:

You must live in some kind of overly intrusive jurisdiction if windows are part of a car inspection!
--
Somewhere along the line, politicians discovered it's more fun to tell
people how to live than it is to fix potholes.
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On Wednesday, July 26, 2017 at 9:46:47 AM UTC-4, Wade Garrett wrote:

I can see the driver's window being needed though.
What if you have to use a hand signal? They're still legal, right?
What if you're stopped by police? Opening your door to talk to them can be a bad idea. Not talking to them is even worse.
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On 7/26/17 9:51 AM, TimR wrote:

Car inspections were originally instituted to check for emission compliance, period.
Back in the days of carburetors, retarded spark, and those new-fangled catalytic converters, all of which achieved emission standards at the cost of degraded performance, guys removed the converters and jacked carburetor settings and ignition timing to restore performance. Annual inspections prevented them from doing that.
But nanny-state politicians broadened the scope of inspections as a form of control and raised the inspection fee to take more revenue from folks.
If your effin' driver's window doesn't work, that's your business....and inconvenience, as you can't easily use the drive-thru window at McDonald's;-)
--
Somewhere along the line, politicians discovered it's more fun to tell
people how to live than it is to fix potholes.
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wrote:

No, safety inspections existed LONG before emission controls were implemented, and much longer before emission testing was thought of.

And before that, people drove unsafe clunkers that were involved in too many accidents. I was a mechanic way back when safety inspections were started in Ontario back in the early seventies or late sixties. I know Pensylvania had safety inspections before Ontario did.

Conspiracy theorists everywhere - - - -

Safety inspections are MUCH more important than emission tests. The emission tests are FREE in Ontario now.
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